I want to put a flange on the quarter panels for my 1960 Merc convertible Would anyone be able to share their experience with the different ones Thanks
Buy a manual one not the air powered. Don't try and squeeze it down in one pass. And you might also think panel adhesives over welding as a method of joining. That's my 2 cents.
To each their own I guess, but I don't care for flanging in most cases. The flange sometimes alters the curve in the panel and makes bumping back to shape difficult. I prefer a backing strip tacked in place through punched holes before final welding. The narrow strip will follow the panel curve tightly and is easier to hammer and dolly if needed. But, it is unsightly if in a place that will be seen after assembly. But to answer the question, not a brand name but another vote for a manual squeeze type. I could never get real control for air hammer type.
I was wondering if it could affect the straightness of the metal. I think I will try the strip of metal.thanks for the help.
I agree with not flanging. I tried that once on a quarter panel repair and decided I would rather butt weld them from then on. Pretty sure the flange distorted the shape then also made a thick area along the seem that was hard to get back straight.
We made this up about 40 years ago and have not used then much since then. Worked good at the time if you go slow like said above
Fit the patch panel. Trim it to size and file the weld joint straight Re-fit the patch and scribe the cut line on the car Trim the cut line with aviation snips and file that cut line flat Fit, butt weld, hammer/dolly and metal finish.
Hi alchemy, how are you doing. I can remember a 1957 Ford we built as a stock car that had quarter panels pop riveted and bonded. The guy did a good job too.
If you are planning on painting it any form of bonding is eventually going to map through the finish as the seam will expand and contract at a different rate that the surrounding panels.
My oldest hit a moose with the truck with relatively light damage for knocking over a moose. I had the body shop quote a price for doing a repaint as part of the work. The body shop that did some panel repairs on on the supercab lower quarters that had blistered . The truck looked amazing for about 3 years then the panel flanges started to telegraph through the paint. It started rusting at the panel flange laps and eventually got ugly.
Pop rivets? You used pop rivets?!? Yeah... that's what some of the guys on the HAMB said to do. They were KIDDING. Oh.
Thanks for the help. Now I'm really confused! So many ways to skin a cat! I guess it comes down to I'm not a very good body man and probably never will be. I envy the quality of body work some of you are capable of
Just in case anyone thought I was serious about the pop rivets, check the pics to see how I really do a panel joint. Cut and file one side, scribe the second side to match, then cut with shears for a gap that’s hopefully thinner than paper. I TIGed this joint (some spots required no rod at all) and was able to hammer and dolly so it will need maybe a 1/16” of filler. No Overlap!
The overlapped area will trap moisture. It will be impossible to thouroughly rust proof on the back side. It will be prone to corrosion. butt tack weld finish weld hammer-n-dolly / metal finish any warpage paint
something I would like to add, is the fact that the older cars(including my 1960 Mercury Monterey Convertible, have thicker metal in the body than say a new tin can. So maybe now is the tine Henry learns how to fit a panel correctly, then butt weld it and work it smooth with my body hammers. If it don't work, I can always grind it down and try again. I will include some pictures when I get to it, I"m sure you can all use a good laugh!
Butt welding sounds intimidating at first but with some practice you can become a craftsman. If a cave man like me can do it any body can. Start with some scrap metal and take your time learning how the metal reacts to heat, gap and angle of your torch.
... as for the original question I like the pneumatic panel flangers. I have a flanger I made from vice grips as well. I only used them on floors and other inner structures where the original part had a flange. I butt welded all the body panels I did back when I did that sort of stuff.
Yep I'm a air powered flanger too! Used both styles with ease (pistol style & straight). I could walk a panel in no time and never had a problem. I used them when trying to make trunk floors and floor pans look stock as just about all factory panels are put together this way. .
Here is another technique I use. Make temporary offset barbs to attach the two panels. Butt weld, grind off the tabs, finish weld.
I have a air power also. It is a older one, the newer ones have a larger hole punch for up to date collision repair standards.
I use a Sunnex pneumatic punch/flange tool. Hand tools are for people with time, and without arthritis. For some panels, I will use the bead roller. I only flange on interior stuff and otherwise structural stuff that won't be seen.
I use a pneumatic punch/flange tool also. Some panels on my car I do not have access to the back of to do hammer and dolly work to. There are welded panel flanges (with a Mig no less) on my car that were welded in 2011 that neither have rust, nor can you see the weld line. That car has been on the road 100,000 miles, sits outside in all kinds of weather, since it was 1st painted in 2012. I build driver stuff, not show poodles. If the car was going to be on a show circuit, welded panel flanges might not be the best method, but for most driver rides, its OK. Faster, easier welding, more effort matching body curves, Same effort to not warp the crap out of it or to prevent rust. If you have no access to the back side, expect more filler, any way you weld it. Pick your poison. Welded panel flanges are not the death keel everyone wants to make them out to be.
I have a Mac pneumatic flange tool. The hole punch doesn't work very well anymore, but I have a manual hole punch i use. If it's something you're gonna use 1 time, I wouldn't invest a fortune in one. And if you do an overlap, use weld through coating on the inside of the overlap. But the best way is the butt joint.
The Jalopy Journal
