Now it's time to ID the rear end in the old 34. Front is a 40 Ford. Is this rear end unit also a 1940???
Has hydraulic brakes and its 5 on 5 1/2 so 1940 or later unless things were changed around over the years. I'm sure there are other ID info that more knowledgeable members will post.
I think the real clues are in the wishbone mounts and spring hangers which are not shown well in the pictures
Brake drums/hubs are 42-48, the backing plates are hard to see but look like I can see a notch so also 42-48. The wishbones are short so that looks like 42-48 as well. The bearings that may be needed are the same from 39-48, so doesn't really matter what year the housing is, unless you need to replace some big parts. Note, the brakes shoes and bushings are different from your front 1940 brakes.
Thanks for the help so far. I have these other outside pics. I dont know if they will help. Please remember. This had an Olds engine mounted in it and I think the motor was moved back approx. 6" from its stock location so the torque tube and wishbones have been shortened up but I'm obviously changing out wheel cylinders & brake parts and inspecting the differential. Are these pictures any more helpful??? I'll post in a second.
keep in mind that you need a special puller to remove the rear drums, also the wheel studs are "swedged" thru the hubs and drums and they are not easily separated . also once the drums are off, inspect the part of the axle housing that the wheel bearings ride on, they are sometimes worn or pitted.
I don't think reproduction drums of that type are being made. You will need the earlier style with the drum mounting from the outside if your drums are bad
As I’m getting ready to start on the rear end what kind of puller does it take to remove the drums. Can someone post a picture??? I pretty much know what to look for the outer end but what about the differential itself??? Since this was used as a drag car is there any chance they welded something in the diff. ??? Was that a common practice in this era or not??? Thank you!
If you look past the spindle nut, see the tapered part that then has a “lip” before it gets to the drum? There’s a tool that clamps over that lip, then is used to pull the drum off. That said, on the few I’ve done, I used a 3 legged puller that I could bolt to the studs. It worked without issues. But mine may have just been easier to get off than others. I tightened my puller a bit, smacked the end with a 2lb sledge and “pop” off they came.
Search KR Wilson banjo drum puller. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on playing with old Fords for a while. Otherwise make friends with a local who has one.
The Jalopy Journal
