Hot Rods Rochester 2 barrel carbs

Looking to learn more about the history, how they work and so on. Can anyone recommend a good book about them. I did a search and see there's a few out there. Interested in Tri Power set up too. So I might need a couple of books.

 

This is the definative book to start with

 

GM used them a looooong time and so did others. They are on countless 3-2 setups. I always liked them.

 

You'll learn there are two very different sizes, at least a hundred variations and those made after the early 1970s are very different from those made in the first twenty years.

FWIW, speaking of the 1972 - 1985 smog era, I knew of perfectly good cars and trucks which were sold or traded because no one at the dealership could make the smog calibrated Rochester 2GC reliable in that transition from cold start to hot run. It was common, having your ride die out crossways to oncoming traffic while you were trying a major merge onto an arterial or highway.

jack vines

 

If you want to learn about working on them, Charlie Price Vintage Speed has a YouTube series taking you thru the details of those carbs.

 

^^^^ Well, there you go. Modern technology at its helpful best.
The old school approach: Rod & Custom, May 2009 has a good article on setting up a 3x2 setup with regular old Rochester 2GCs.

 

I watched those and it got me interested in learning more. Thanks

 

Thanks to all who posted or may post later, your comments are appreciated.

 

Hello,

I remember reading one of these types of flyers that was given to us by our dad's friend in Los Angeles. He was an expert mechanic, was well schooled and had surprising contacts in the industry from the very early days of Los Angeles hot rods and cruisers. When we still had the 58 Impala 348 280hp+ from 57 to 65 they gave us some good knowledge. They were very informative, as these flyers are supposed to be. After trial and error, we decided that the vacuum version was the best set up for our Impala.

We tried the progressive linkage and liked the looks, but did not like the function, after many adjustments to all of the carbs. When the center carb was full open, the progressive linkage did not open the outside two carbs to full. When they were adjusted to full open, then the motor ran funny.

The best was to run the center carb to full and hope that the outside two opened up. But, the back of our minds, it was not the best for daily street driving.

At the drags, we set it for full center and full outside carbs with one push of the lever. But, remember, it was all out drags and no daily stop and go with normal traffic. All three two barrel carbs at once were not the best for comfortable daily street cruising to high school or at night to our Bixby Knolls hangouts.

Now, with the vacuum, the center worked all of the time and when pushed to open to full throat, then the other two kicked in and opened to full throat. It was simple, felt great driving around to school, on dates, to the beach and even up into the mountains. Although in the mountains, those that knew, adjusted the carbs for better driving in high altitude environment vs. the ocean level driving. (and vice versa when we came down from 8000 feet to sea level…)

Jnaki

So, the vacuum is/was the best for us. But, if you can’t set up a vacuum, then a progressive unit should work for you. You might be adjusting the Progressive link set up until you get it to where you like for comfortable driving. But, it did take many adjustments to get close to full power. Did I mention that progressive linkage stuck on one late night, foolish, full power acceleration away from my friends house?

When we sold the Impala to another younger teenage friend, he knew about the vacuum verses the progressive linkage. So, he kept the stock vacuum unit, but had the progressive unit if he went back to the drags to race. Progressive was good for the drags, but, for us, not so good, on the street.

 

They were invented in Rochester NY at the Edison laboratories.
submarines used em during WW2 up until nuclear subs became common.
Modified versions were used in NASA’s Saturn rocket program.
They were phased out during the Space Shuttle program in the mid to late 80s.

 

I think I bought this one sometime in the late 70's/early 80's & still refer to it to this day!!!! Very helpful.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I just found an original copy!

 

Old 3x2 article.

 

I built a 3 x 2 setup for my tub's 302. The end carbs are dummies. (In a 1500 LB car I need three carbs like I need a hole in my head. I just want the look.) All the carbs are turned around backwards so they will clear the front-mounted distributor. It works fantastic, even with the carbs facing the wrong way - burns rubber at will.

 

Best 2 barrel made Just make sure the power valve system is free on carbs that set for a long time.

 

I'm sure you'll find out that the Pontiac/Olds setups were the big base carbs, flowed about 350 ft. each. Vacuum leaks are the killer, the end carbs need to be absolutely sealed, best bet is the Vintage speed bases or i hear speedway has a product for the small bases.

 

X2. Have this book on my shelf!

 

Really good 2-barrel carb (in the top 3 in my opinion).

The book by Doug Roe dictated to Bill Fisher as mentioned in several posts is very good.

Rochester offered quite a bit of factory training material:

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_lit-Rochester.htm

And at least Pontiac, had a whole section in the 6-B division of their shop manuals.

As far as differences: there is a huge range of different styles, throttle body sizes, internal venturii sizes, calibrations, etc. I have 890 listings in my database for the Rochester 2-G, 2-GC, and 2-GV carburetors.

Jon

 

Autolite 2vs, best carbs I’ve ever had
Rochester 1bbl is a very close 2nd
Using a Rochester large base 2v on the kids truck. Super easy and simple. Works great

 

My buddy had a 68 Oldsmobile Delta 88 with a high compression 455 and a two barrel. That car was a screamer! I saw it dust a couple 442's, Chevelle SS396, and a Ford Fairlane GT390.My buddy won it in a card game from a local drag racer. I think he did a few things to it but he claimed it was bone stock.

 

I had a 2bbl in my '64 Olds 88, I rebuilt in on mom's kitchen table, after I degreased it outside. The key thing is making the inside clean and getting the float right.

They used to sell carb "dip kits", man was that a funky solvent to say the least. Once those were off the market, I'd take the carb apart and have it cleaned at a local speed shop for $3.

 

I've had 3 Rochester two barrels on the car in my avatar since 1992. I get 20+ mpg depending on how hard I drive it. At first I had issues but got them all sorted out. Like mentioned here before the end carbs throttle plates have to seal 100% for them to work right. Also if your center carb has the power valve if I'm calling it by the correct name it can cause problems. It's located on the back side of the carb under a plate. There is a small rod sticking out of the plate with a spring around it. Some carbs have it & some don't. I kept having problems with mine so I plugged it off with a small allen head pipe plug & haven't had any problems in years. I have been taking them off about every ten years & cleaning them up & putting kits in them. I recommend using brass floats. very simple carbs to work on.

 

A mostly GM carb system, yet in the late 60s the 427 Vettes came with three 2300 FoMoCo carbs because they pulled more power than the rottenchesters.

Also be advised there are SIX different bodies for single and tri power. NOT all 2Gs are the same inside.
They fit 4 different accelerator pumps. Your center carb must be the one with a larger pump.
THe fuel inlets come on 3 side, so dont use the ones that come out the front, they are single application.

 

Nope never happened
I happened to sell these kits (this is not our listings)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402836647612
https://www.partsforspeed.com/corve...-vacuum-diaphragm-135-6-outer-carbs-each.html

The Holley 2300 and the FoMoCo carb are the same. One has a list number the other a list number and letter, number, letter, letter code on them.
I was shocked too.

(Im at work sending carb parts around the world and cobbled this reply together.
Ill get more data later on)

 

Those Dip Kits alsotook a few layers of skin off LOL..

 

Yes, they were nasty to say the least. I would use them outside, let it sit outside the garage for a few days. Then rinse with water... also outside and blow it off. The parts still stunk when I brought them inside.

 

I find it a little disturbing that a serious carburetor person would use a pejorative such as this on a public forum.

 

Had this set up on a very warm 355 sbc years ago. Worked great on the street.

 

Here is an article that might be of interest. Yet another reason to renew subscriptions..........





Every tidbit helps.........