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Technical Cold small block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by PickupNut, Dec 14, 2022.

  1. PickupNut
    Joined: Feb 24, 2019
    Posts: 37

    PickupNut
    Member

    Got a mild 350 Chevy, can’t get it to warm up. Drive or idle, never hits more then 140, and the hoses never get hot. Fresh build, need to burp somehow? Gauge is checked. Thanks
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,020

    Budget36
    Member

    Thermostat maybe?
     
  3. onetrickpony
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 842

    onetrickpony
    Member
    from Texas

    Cold weather and no thermostat? Try blocking off some of the air flow to the radiator with some card board and see what happens.
     
    Deuces and seb fontana like this.
  4. It would be getting hot if it needed to burp trapped air, your thermostat is either stuck open or non existent
     
    Deuces, seb fontana and Jibs like this.
  5. PickupNut
    Joined: Feb 24, 2019
    Posts: 37

    PickupNut
    Member

    Well,right on. Stuck brand new Motorad”Failsafe”. 180 thermo! Fail-Sure better name. Thanks guys.
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,167

    squirrel
    Member

    failsafe means it sticks open, not closed? :) that's a feature, not a bug
     
  7. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,067

    junkman8888
    Member

    Quite frankly, your situation, "my engine is running cold" is for a lot of hot-rodders, something they desperately try to achieve.
     
  8. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,370

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    My self just encountered this OT 4,3
    Thermostat had just enough of crack
    (About .030 thoe) not to close completely ,bypassing water,
     
  9. For a second method of checking, I use a thermal infared temp gun. You can shoot the area behind the thermostat or close on a head and if the gauge is way off for any reason, you have some info to verify if the engine is cool or not.
     
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,388

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Only if they want I complete combustion.
     
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,541

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm going to assume that you are trying to get decent heat out of the heater.
    I'm with one trick Pony in that the first trial and error thing is to block off the grill/radiator with piece of cardboard.
    If part of the cooling system is higher than the radiator fill you can indeed have an airlock in the system. My OT daily has and air bleed on the thermostat housing that I have to unscrew and make sure that the coolant level is proper there.
    Quite often if the coolant level isn't right you don't get any warm air out of the heater. Not just not hot but not even warm. On the other hand the old stock heater in my 48 cooled the engine enough that most of the time the thermost barely opened. If you drilled a hole in the thermost body shell as an air bleed too big of a hole will let more coolant than you want to get past and not get the engine up to temp. That is again, pesonal experience.
    You may have to back flush the heater core if it is an older heater core. I've had to do a lot of them over the years on customer cars and on a few of my own. They get clogged up and coolant just won't flow through them effectively.
    Still a heat gun really helps figure things out as WFO guy said, That is probably the quick way to see what is happening outside of putting your hand on the upper hose to see if it feels warm when the engine is supposed to be colder than the thermostat rating and put it on the radiator to see if it is getting warm water to it when it really shouldn't. If it is a system with the heater hose that returns to the radiator that won't help the temp rise real fast in some cases but you usually get heat out of the heater.
     
  12. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 3,406

    twenty8
    Member

    If you mean "incomplete combustion", then you are correct........
     

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