My first question on the forum. Bought this 1953 Lincoln Capri 10 years ago as my first cl***ic era car project and after many delays I've jumped in with both feet to get her running again. Installed a new solenoid and battery cable to get her cranking. When last running she had a tendency to overheat at idle. I pick up the radiator from the shop tomorrow and I need advice. Do I use a 160 or 180 degree hi flow thermostat? 13lb or 16lb or lower rad cap? Should I install a 6 blade flex fan while installing the reworked radiator? Do I need an anti collapse spring in the lower hose? I was told to change the distributor to a later model centrifugal advance to eliminate retarded idle.( If anyone has one to sell please let me know...thanks) On a separate issue the Hydra-Matic transmission seems to be stuck in reverse mode. Any chance this could be as simple as a linkage adjustment? The original but rebuilt flaming teapot carburetor has no run time. Should I keep it? Any advice is greatly appreciated...Vic
160 should be warm enough on the thermostat. The radiator cap...what was original equipment? and did you talk to the radiator shop about what they recommend? beware that many early radiators have really large tanks (lots of surface area) and don't like to be pressurized more than 7 psi. If the cooling system is clean, etc, then the original fan should work ok. Check the transmission linkage, but it could be something stuck inside the transmission, either a shift valve or a clutch pack or band, if it has been sitting for a long time.
If you don't find what you need here, try over at the Barn or yblocksforever. RB at yblocksforever is an expert on the Lincoln/truck/Merc yblocks. As are others.
Seems like a lot of the 50’s ohv engines that never overheated when new over heat now. I partly blame fuel but it cannot be all of it. The typical FoMOCo had a 170* when new. I use a 160* high flow and. 7 psi cap which I believe was standard. Jim’s is correct about the big radiator tanks. I plugged the byp*** then drilled a 1/8” hole in the plug to restrict continuous recirculation of the block water. I also added a shroud which may be complicated on a Lincoln. A 5-6 blade steel fan can also help. If you continue to heat up in traffic, creeping up and hard to get it back down, take the cap off, leave the coolant 1” low, run the engine in drive until you are sure the thermostat is open, look in the radiator, if there is no water movement of coolant, slightly raise the idle, if you see movement you need a smaller water pump pulley. A Late 60’s Mustang will fit and is 1 to 1-1/2” smaller and this will solve your idle creeping overheating. A radiator overflow bottle/container will help by having the rad full of coolant. Without one you need to run the coolant 1” low for expansion. I’m not sure what centrifugal distributor will interchange with a 317 Lincoln but if one is found your factory carb for a loadmatic needs to be replaced too. They are not compatible. With that said Ted Eaton on blocksforever.com has posted and written a procedure to make the Holley compatible with the centrifugal/vacuum disc.... I’ve never seen one burn. Can’t help on the trans... good luck I always like that era of Lincoln.
Thanks miker98038 for helping me get started here. Looks like a lot of good information on those sites..
The '57-up Y-block distributor will work fine (just change the drive gear to the Lincoln gear), but you will have to change the carb to a later one also(as noted above) : the original carb & distributor work as a team, & the motor won't work right if you change either one & not both. Now that the radiator is clean(the spring in the lower hose is a good idea) flush the motor : the original 4 blade fan with 180 thermostat, & 7lb(or even no-pressure with a catch-tank) cap should be fine as long as you get your timing right. I ran several of these in the 60s through the '90s without any incidents, & no, if the rest of it is "right" you shouldn't need a fan shroud. If it gets "hot", run a compression check for a blown head gasket & check your timing! Have you dropped the pan & cleaned out the "gunk"? After that suggest what the factory suggested : 10W-30 oil(today I'd probably use a "high-mileage" synthetic), & you can change over to a spin-on filter by sourcing the same "kit" that is used on the Y-block. Drop the pan on the Hydra-matic, clean it out,(I almost forgot : there should be a drain plug in the convertor : pull the lower tin cover under the convertor for access : you will need to rotate the engine to find it) I think the currently recommended fluid is Dextron IV, but check with a local old time transmission man in your area. You may need to back around a parking lot for a while to warm up the transmission, but eventually you should be able to get it to free up & go into forward gear. That Lincoln motor is right out of the heavy commercial vehicle line &(with proper care) is almost indestructible : The trans(sourced from GM) was used for tanks & other military vehicles in WWII, so it's also very durable, just keep it clean & adjusted. This'll keep you busy for a while, but feel free to PM me if you have any questions. Also :drain & clean the oil-bath air cleaner : if it's dirty it restricts the air flow. JUST DON'T TRY TO RUN THE CAR WITHOUT AN AIR CLEANER : IF IT BACKFIRES, YOU'LL FIND OUT WHY "T-POT" HOLLY CARBS ARE SOMETIMES CALLED "FIRE-STARTERS"!!!
@LincolnYblock53 You will not be able to PM @drtrcrV-8 until you have 10 posts unless he contacts you first. I have tagged both you and him with the @ symbol so he should respond. You are at 8 posts now. Thank me then in another post tell us more about your car, PICTURES. A lot of us are old and like to look at pictures.
Thank you Warhorse I didn't know about the restriction on PM's. I'm old too and have always liked pictures! lol Here are a few until the the rain p***es and I can take more. She's pretty rough but she runs....
Thank you dirt racer V-8 for sharing experience with this engine. I will PM when I've reached the threshold of posts....
Caution : After you've had one they tend to be addictive!! LOL!! The last new car my father bought was a '54 Capri, although he later bought a used '54 when the original car was totaled in'64( although he did drive the original car home after the accident : it was body damage that totaled the car, not mechanical...)
Yes, the hydramatic has a habit of getting the reverse cone clutch stuck. IIRC you run the engine@ 1000 rpm, then with brakes applied, shift to R, wait 2 seconds, then shift to Lo, then repeat sequence 4 times. Bring engine back to idle.. That should free up the reverse clutch.
From your picture you don't have power steering or brakes. That's a good thing, as the original power brake units are either working or not : when a Treadelvac system fails, all you have is the emergency brake on the rear wheels(I would, however, strongly suggest upgrading to a dual master cylinder & splitting your system .) The standard steering works very well, & you don't have a power system to leak or break a belt, which are plusses! Those breathers at the rear of the valve covers are not original & shouldn't be necessary, as long as you keep the filter on the road-draft tube clean (or add a PCV valve ).
If someone wanted a 317 short block and was in the SF Bay area, I would be happy to see it go to a good home. Free for nothing. Will not deliver.
Just got back from radiator shop 60.00 for repairs...very reasonable I thought. Repair tech thinks the core is original but the tubes are a little thin.. Got a couple of used tires for the rear 30.00 bucks each mounted and balanced. 5yrs old according to date code. Do you guys use these? The Treadelvac power brake got replaced by the previous owner with a manual master. Checking out these units on Ebay as a replacement/upgrade.. Universal Under Dash Pedal With 7" Dual Booster + Master Cylinder GM You cant see the power steering pump from the picture...and unfortunately it does leak. I think the hose or hoses are shot. Next step: get the rad hoses and spring, High flow thermostat and gaskets..and get the rad back in
I used to have a 1963 F750 with the 332 version, with an Allison auto, and many different drivers, so it spent a lot of time at WFO throttle. Tough ****er, and never got hot, ever
Thanks d2_willys for that procedure to free up the Hydramatic. Glad to to know that is a common issue and hopefully nothing major...
The reverse "cone" design was moderately new to the Hydra-Matic at that time, and had a few quirks, getting stuck on one of them. You can tell if it doesn't initially free up if it's just the cone stuck by putting it in Drive and seeing if you get 4 reverse gears... If so, repeat and it'll free up eventually. Phil
Looks like a good one to save ! One just showed up in a salvage yard over in Ft. Worth after no takers on Craigslist they do have it off to the side and not in the yard yet.
If I were closer I'd try to pick it up for parts. Did they mention asking price? Just curious. Wish we could save them all.
Rust, dried up dirt encrusted grease, and crunchy old rubber. AH the sweet smell of old cars. I only wish the IED in Afghanistan didn't take away my sense of smell. There are times I don't miss it.
i just picked up a 52 capri and was looking at doing the brake booster/mc combo as well ,im putting in a 53 motor . getting alot of good info thank you
i just picked up a capri as well . a 1953 . great condition . i suspect it has always been shedded . interior is great , and almost no rust . i'll be watching for more info on these .
Suggestion to all of the new Lincoln owners : both LCOC(Lincoln & continental Owner's Club) & The Road Race Lincoln Register are great sources of Lincoln SPECIFIC information & help, if only as reference sources! Also over on the FORD BARN, as mentioned above
good information . thanks . i'll check them out . i need a right side fender skirt , but other than that my capri is fairly complete .
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