Technical 65’ C10 250 to 350 Swap

So one other thing, what can I do for the throttle with the new engine. I’m pretty sure the old one won’t work

 

I did that same swap at 14 or 15 years old. I remember that the motor mounts had to be in the back most holes. as far as throttle ***embly I think all I had to do is shorten and bend the rod for it to work. It seems it was manual linkage type iirc...

 

If it doesn't work the simple way is to find the pieces off a V8. It may only be a length of the rod issue as Chavezk21 said. The last one I did was on a 70 C10 and that was in 1987. My son and I pretty well did most of the swap on a long Saturday.

I'm thinking that it is the older (55-62) 235 trucks that we had a throttle link issue with when going to a V8. You did have to go scrounge V8 linkage on those.

 

1/4" threaded rod, and little heim joints from the hardware store.

Use jam nuts on the threaded rod, against the heim joints. They are not in this photo.

 

That is a nicely done setup in post 34.

Actually most things you will run into will be things that take a bit of time to sort out with very little expense unless you just stand back and throw money at it.

 

So I've got to get new pivot balls, fuel lines, alternator mounts, belts, and some new coolant tubing and that should be everything to set me up for this. Any suggestions for exhaust? I was thinking about just running generic 2.5" pipes to some gl***packs and call it a day.

 

Cool

 

2-1/2” duals are rather large for anything but a nasty 350. I’d stick with 2” pipes.

 

^^^^^^^^^
Also, I've found these at the larger Ace Hardware stores, some NAPA and big box stores have them too.
Most will have standard 1/4 NF thread, some OEM's have used extra fine if you end up acquiring them.
Made this for my roadster.




More inspiration here:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...HXs_DnkQ0pQJegQICxAB&biw=1280&bih=800&dpr=1.5

 

I used the same gas pedal and simply bent a rod from the pedal lever at the firewall to the carb. Super easy

 

So I’m noticing that with the headers the bolt where the new clutch pivot ones that it’ll be in the way. Unless that’s the reason I’m getting a new one

 

You can dimple the tube for clearance.

 

Okay thank you so much that was worrying me a lot. Happy new years. Starting the engine swap tomorrow and I’ll keep all you updated. Thank you for everything

 

Kind of goes against the grain to deliberately ding (dimple) a brand new shiny part, doesn't it?

 

Makes it easier if you think of it as "contour clearance shaping".......

 

If you can use the fan it may still not be a great choice unless it's a fan design that flows enough cfm's to work well on the 350. I'd want a 6 blade fan to do the task. Simple to put the fan onto the SBC water pump to check bolt patterns, and then determine if it needs a spacer to clear anything else.

 

Nope.

It is not shiny. It is a painted header, which will be bare metal, as soon as it gets hot.

 

So engines almost in. Having small clearances issues with the p***enger side and the valve cover and we’re just barely not close enough to the transmission. We’re thinking about using the bolts to slowly bring them together. Any ideas?

 

Do not.

If the engine and transmission do not practically fall together, something is wrong.

Did you use a clutch disc alignment tool?

Did you remember the pilot bushing?

 

And two other things that will keep you from enjoying what would have been a perfectly good day.....clutch disc orientation and throwout bearing to fork correctly engaged.

 

Point of note from these pictures. Your engine has a lower pulley that goes with a short water pump setup.

It also has a long water pump.

Just be aware that all of these bits will need to match. The shortest path is to swap the lower pulley.

For your 10DN alternator, most auto parts stores have this:
https://www.spectreperformance.com/47293-alternator-bracket-set-sb-chevrolet

This will put the alternator on the p***enger side, in front of the head. The smaller l-shaped bracket bolts to the water pump.

Here's the factory version, painted black. You can see both brackets in the picture:

 

One other thing. If you are having clearance issues between the valve cover and the firewall, you are going to have to dimple the firewall, or run different valve covers.

The stock valve covers on these were quite short, and the overall design is to accommodate those. Your's are quite tall.

This process might mean pulling the engine back out.

Cover the area where the valve cover will hit with tape. Trace a line of the tape of a shape that will allow the valve cover to fit in, and preferably to be removed, too.

Get everything out of the way. Gently, and I do mean gently, tap the center of that marked trace with the ball-side of a ball peen hammer. You want to move the metal in a smooth, controlled fashion. Don't go nuts.

 

That’s odd should be enough room fr a taller valve cover.

Are you using factory V8 motor mounts in the factory position? If so, how do they line up?

 

The recess on these is not all that large.

 

Maybe he should pop the VCs off, see if that’s the only issue.

 

Buy a cable throttle setup, and an after market pedal ***embly. Cheapest and easiest to do. Spectre sells a 24" braided cable ***embly at most O'Reilly's for under $30, and a s**** type chrome or aluminum pedal ***embly is about the same price at numerous places.
I used this on my '39 Chev, and my Austin g***er and they work great.

 

Guess I’m a little late to the party here. Just stumbled across this thread. I swapped a 350 for the old 230 in my 63 C10 back in 2013. Most of the parts I used came from the local NAPA and a few on line sources. Here’s the thread if anyone is interested. Please excuse some the jacked up photos courtesy of Photobucket.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/after-4-years-my-truck-gets-a-little-love.829350/

 

V8 swap in a 61. Didn’t use stock mounts.
Used an unknown engine swap x-member split and one end rotated.

used car style pads.
The valve cover is kinda tight on the p***enger side but clears. Trans is in the stock location and the height should be super close to OE.

the carb linkage is a piece of rod with 2 bends. Used the stock retainers. Super simple.
Mine was a hydro clutch so a bracket was made to use a stock slave on a v8 iron bell.
Used a master cyl for the same year truck to work the clutch.
Added Hydroboost
It all works great and stupid simple/cheap

 

I had similar problems. The V8 needs to move forward for everything to fit right. Check my build thread I linked earlier. Second page about half way down. I got some fabricated engine mounts from CPP and bolted them in the front set of frame holes. Everything just fell into place after that. The fan even fit nice in the factory shroud. Almost like it was planned that way. Had to do a longer drive shaft though. But I’m very pleased with the way mine turned out. Almost 10 years on the build and it’s still going strong.