I am trying to figure my front brake line routing where it Ts or splits from drivers side to p*** side. Originally was going to run brake line from MC to hose (/t with banjo bolt ) bracket hanging under frame rail but now considering drilling hole in rail to p*** thru. what adapter(s) do I need to accomplish this? Can’t find what I need and not done this before. This is on a 34 ford pickup with original frame so not boxed. I want to drill the hole where the original shock was (see picture area circled in red) mounted.
Yes, I did see those type of bulkheads but didn’t see one that would allow female end of flex hose (7/16-24” female inverted flare end) to connect directly. Guess I will need more adapters to make that work.
I use old Ford brakes, so all my hoses and fittings are built just like a 40 Ford. Makes it easy to order the repro pars that will fit together. On my 32 sedan I didn't use the little bolt-on tab to hold the end of the hose, I just went right through the side of the frame like you want to do. A simple hole, and stick the end of the hose through, then the C clip to hold it tight. The 40 br*** fitting takes the hard line from the master, uses a banjo bolt to hold the fitting to the hose, then another hard line off to the other wheel. Very simple. Only bum thing about the ***embly is it's tight quarters in there, especially after the whole car is ***embled. Maintenance will require a contortionist pose.
How about drilling the hole the size of the female fitting on the hose and using a horse shoe clip in the slot on the fitting to secure it, then screw the banjo fitting and tee to it on the inside of the rail. If you are using front brake hoses for a 40 thru 48 ford they have the groove for the clip. Use the spot with the red circle because the frame is a single thickness in that spot. Hope this helps
yes, this was my first idea and I have all those 40 ford components but it seems that the c clip might be impossible to slid over the groove in the hose end because the extra thickness of the second layer of frame. Maybe I will take another look. Yes, will be quite tight in there and I probably should leak test everything before dropping motor in there.
Hello, We have used rubber grommets as per size of a hole to keep whatever line from rubbing accidently in any movement. Recently, we used some rubber grommets for another project and our local Lowe's big box store has a ton of them. Check out the Lowe's website for size and application. Jnaki If the grommet fits, hole wise, but the slit does not fit the metal circular rail, tight is better than loose. Then you don't have to worry about it moving or accidently falling out. Rare, but it happens...YRMV https://www.lowes.com/pl/Rubber--Gr...are-Hardware/4294711046?refinement=4294964925
Maybe you take a hole saw just bigger than the hose end's outer flange, and drill through from the outside, removing just the outer steel layer. Then the hose will sit on the inner layer, and the clip should fit OK on the inside.
A hole saw is a great idea. The picture I posted is showing the inside. I’ll take a hole saw and enlarge the outside perimeter of the hole on the inside rail to give me enough room to install the horseshoe clip, then step bit drill a hole , 5/8” I think, for the flex hose end to fit thru outer frame rail. Thanks all. I got it now.
Some of these things are poorly designed, most have a large diameter "cavern" and small fittings on the ends. This allows them to hold air in the cavity and make bleeding a real PITA. I decided not to use them after a few threads on here pointed that out. I just weld tabs under the frame.
I use these too but generally don't suggest them as they aren't always well recieved around here, something about being too "hi-tec or some such traditional bs.
Can't imagine why, as they were used on WWII aircraft and all the surplus hardware was available to the general public since that time. I reckon that a lot of home built, and modified cars used those same AN fittings immediately after the war.
I've heard of guys putting small pieces of brake-fluid compatible hose in that void to prevent air bubbles form being trapped
That is a good idea. They make one that a buddy used on his car, that is milled down the center the same ID as the end fittings which would illuminate the issue as well.
Just about every hydraulic brake GM rig I have ever worked on had a little bracket with a hole in it riveted to the frame rail next to a hole that the brake line went through and the end of the rubber hose fit in the hole in the bracket and a Clip held the hose in place. Simple, not expensive And you can scrounge the brackets and clips and the later Chevy trucks have better looking brackets Than this one on the 50 GMC frame I have. With the right size hole and the right length hose you could just stick the end of the hose though the hole, put the clip on the back side and attach the brake line. Those long bulkhead fittings are for boxed frames where they work very well.
If anyone wants those long thru the frame fittings, Art Morrison Ent. made them without the cavern so no trapped air.
Ran the brake line from left side to right side today after setting engine in place to avoid clearance issues.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you run the line in front of the engine mounts, along the back of the cross-member ?
I guess I could have. If any thing, thought it would be less interference to the engine mounts if they needed to be removed.
Now that I have all the brake lines plumbed, cleaned out with brake clean and blown out with air I am ready to bench bleed my master cylinder and then bleed all 4 wheel cylinders BUT I cannot find any info on which to do first on an initial install of all new hardware; should I bleed all the wheel cylinders first or adjust all 4 sets of brake shoes first? it seems I should adjust all the shoes first , then bleed each cylinder. Then maybe go back to readjust shoes.
Mechanical adjusters first, then fluid. I pull everything from the master cylinder to wheels via a Mighty-Vac. I like this method because you can see the fluid go clear of bubbles and then simply close the bleeder. A few guys I know pressurize from the wheel and push the fluid to the master cylinder. This way, you have to put Teflon tape around the bleeder threads to keep it from leaking when you pressurize.
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