I'm working on my 48 F1 right now ... she runs but the previous butch wasn't that gentle or safe. anyway, its been dropped just don't know how much, looks like the stock leafs are in with 5 plates... problem is its running with 275/60/15s rears and they rub on the render when i have a few things in the bed. Basically I think the shocks are done and need to be replaced, my question is should i replace the leafs also, I want to leave it dropped. The current leafs are almost straight with nothing in the bed (except the fuel cell ... genius put it in the bed). I'm getting steel wheels with white walls ... what size would be best for an every day driver, i'm sticking to 15in but width and depth?? also in the future will be doing the MII upfront Waterboychuck: can you take some pics of your truck dismantled just trying to get a reference point. thanks!!
Sorry ..... thank you for everyone's help and feedback. Preserving these time pieces are a must..... thanks again
We need some more of these with details. Especially those retaining original suspension Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There was a guy in the Evansville Indiana area, he was a member of the E'ville Iron C.C., I think it was a '48 he had, with a Valore front end. It sat right! It was a project that I suspect was sold before it was finished.
Am building a 52 mercury m1 mustang 11 front and dropped spindles paralell 4 link and bags on back no pics yet
Whichever route you choose, I do recommend to NOT go too low unless using airbags. I built my 49 (yes, it has 51 front fenders and grille) on a 78 Mercury Grand Marquis frame (should've used a S10 frame so I wouldn't have had to widen the front fenders). I didn't have much option as I didn't have a frame to start with. When I 1st built it, I measured and built based on the looks of the front gravel pan. I didn't plan that the rear part of the front fenders and front part of the running boards are actually about 1 1/2 - 2 inches lower than the front of the gravel pan. So although it looked great and I could get the front of the truck over speed bumps, it would drag the front running board brackets because they are lower than the front gravel pan. So I took the whole truck back apart and raised all body mounts up. I raised the front 2 inches, and each bracket back a little less, raising the rear 1/2 inch. So the moral of the story: set your ride height based on the rear part of the front fenders/front part of the running boards, not the front gravel pan. After 2nd build:
Hello, One of our friends said that a cool Ford truck is always in our local big box store lot. He must be doing some remodeling on his house. We had an errand in the garden shop and when we got out of our station wagon, there was this cool lowered pickup truck sitting in a great parking spot. From a prospective of comparison to the surrounding cars, there is none. This dark Green truck just had it over the other newer cars. American Racing mags look great, there was nothing over the top about the build and the daily driving stance showed a nice photo array. (a nice story for a possible magazine feature car) Jnaki The license plate was spot on for a great description. A very cool, nicely finished, lowered Truck from So Cal.
@rusty1, Do you have a build thred on this truck. Or, could you tell me how you lowered it? Thanks NRM
I built this in the late 90's - Mustang II, stock rear with leafs removed. This truck used an actual Mustang II that I hacked out of a '75 Mustang before there were kits available for these chassis. I am currently rebuilding the entire truck to correct some of the sins from my youth. The biggest change is the truck will now have a turbocharged 300 I6, I haven't decided if I am keeping the IFS or swapping back to a straight axle.
The Jalopy Journal
