Been looking but cant find if anyone makes a 1/4” spacer to go between the hub and drum on ‘46-‘48 rear ***emblies. Would rather go this route instead of milling back of drum and backing plate for the conversion on the A.
Early Ford parts houses carry thin shims that go around the axle tapers on the 'A'. They stop just shy of the axle keys. We were broke teenagers, made our own out of STEEL beer cans. (not aluminum)
Are you trying to move the drum away from the backing plate? I am confused. You don’t want to separate the hub from the drum on a 46-48 set. If you are trying to put the A wheels on the later hubs, there are rings for that. If you are trying to put the later hubs on the A spindles, you need a spacer sleeve to hold the drum out and also the centering rings.
You messing with the relationship between the drum friction surface and the shoe by using a spacer to move the backing plate. Just grind the lip. It's not hard or an issue. You're trying to reinvent the wheel here and there is no need.
No need to mill stuff; an angle grinder, cut off wheel, and a piece of flat bar as a guide will make for a quick and accurate job t******* the lip of the backing plate.
Why would any grinding be required? He is using 46-8 hubs and drums. He says he is converting to juice brushes so he has 39-48 backing plates. Everything fits with no modifications The drum is going in to far because he does not have the sleeve that goes on the spindle to correctly space the hub.
He's talking about the rears. Not the fronts. When you bolt juice brakes to the rear of the model A, there is light contact between the lip of the backing plate and the inner lip of the drum and you need to shave off a 1/4 inch or so.
The solution to that is to rotate the backing plates 180* and switch them side to side. This makes it all fit without cutting. The wheel cylinders need to be switched also to get the blenders on top. Many times people have cut small reliefs in the backing plate but rotating and switching is cleaner and does not damage anything.
Rotating it has nothing to do with what we are talking about here. That is a completely separate issue dealing with the wheel cylinder interference. We are talking about the inner lip of the drum and the lip at the edge of the backing plate. Do I need to shoot a picture to help explain?
You're not wrong with what you said...rotating the plates is a great way to go about tackling the wheel cylinder issue, I think I may do it on my next build.. It just not the problem we're discussing here..
Or he can simply use the aluminum spacer he was asking about that I sent him a picture of and has been used by hundreds of people who have converted their Model A's to juice brakes.
Been looking but cant find if anyone makes a 1/4” spacer to go between the hub and drum on ‘46-‘48 rear ***emblies. Would rather go this route instead of milling back of drum and backing plate for the conversion on the A. Like he said.
He can...and It's kinda the worst way to do it. You do understand that, by doing that, now the shoe doesn't make full contact with the friction surface of the drum? Correct? And that then there will be a small sliver of the shoe that makes zero contact and doesn't wear down? But hey, half ***-ing is a great way to go, right? Hundreds may have used that way. But thousands, if not tens of thousands have been done the correct way. On top of that, how does the backing plate and wheel cylinder clear the perch? I'd like to see pictures of that. It's already a tight relationship. I can't imagine moving it a 1/4 closer allows much room for the brake line. You can barely get one on as it is.
After reading the description of the part you posted, it's not even for what he is asking. It moves the backing plate away from the perch and closer to the drum. And is meant to be used with reproduction Bendix backing plates used on a model A rear axle. Along with using the special rear hubs($275 each) that will move the drum out. Neither of these will help him with what he is asking for... But thanks for having at***ude about something you're not even correct about.
There is a reasonably decent tutorial here and they say to buy the shims for the axle taper. Model-A Hydraulic Brake Conversion (lainefamily.com) Here: Number 00082 Sacramento Vintage Ford
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