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Technical 1951 Dodge Coronet switch questions.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Moedog07, Dec 30, 2022.

  1. Moedog07
    Joined: Apr 11, 2011
    Posts: 520

    Moedog07
    Member

    A new-ish project is coming off the trailer soon. It's a 1951 Dodge Coronet. It is mostly complete, gl***, seats, fenders, bonnet, and boot lids all there. It will receive a V8 and automatic transmission. (Cause that's what I want and i have the parts and pieces squirreled away)

    The plan is to get the car to drive from point A to point B. No racing, no frills, V8, set of parts store gauges, and gl***packs are what's on the menu. It will be converted to 12V negative ground (earth) from its current 6V positive ground.

    I've read here on the HAMB of builders who have upgraded their car to 12 volts, but they still use their 6 volt switches.
    I suppose I could wire the individual devices directly to the original 6V switches or could wire the original 6V switches to a host of 12V relays that connect to the new 12V devices I want to operate.
    Those being, ignition switch, headlight switch, heater blower switch.

    Any advice from those who have actually used 6v switches with 12V?
     
  2. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 8,514

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Your factory Mopar switches are better quality than anything you can buy today, and much heavier construction. By all means, use them.
     
    Moedog07 and TrailerTrashToo like this.
  3. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,746

    choptop40
    Member

    correct , switches were heavy duty , you have to use resistors if you p[lan to use the stock gauges .....Pics please....
     
  4. If your switches are in good condition they will handle 12 volts easily. A 12 volt system typically draws less current than a 6 volt system so your switches will be carrying less load unless you add more to the system. I used all the original switches (except heater fan switch) in my 50 Ford as well as a 55 Ford I had when I was a kid. No problems in either car and I don't expect you will either if your switches are in good condition now.

    I did use relays for headlights because I used Bosch H4 style headlamps that clearly draw more than the original headlamps.
     
  5. Moedog07
    Joined: Apr 11, 2011
    Posts: 520

    Moedog07
    Member

    Here is a couple of pictures. Just a stodgy old Dodge. No frills.
    I want to run some 15 inch Series 62 wheels on it but have some 14 inch factory Steelies I'll use to mock it up. When the weather gets above 10° I'll be more motivated.
    Screenshot_20221230_212902_Facebook.jpg Screenshot_20221230_212836_Facebook.jpg
    Series 62 wheels
    Screenshot_20221230_213532_eBay.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2022
  6. I have a 50-dodge run 12v and use the original switch's
     
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  7. Moedog07
    Joined: Apr 11, 2011
    Posts: 520

    Moedog07
    Member

    I plan for basic wiring groups -
    *Ignition switch to Ford solenoid to starter.
    *Ignition switch to 70s-era electronic Ignition system.
    *Alternator/battery group.
    *Headlight switch to lighting.
    *Ignition switch to heater switch to blower fan.
    Brake light switch (80s GM style)
    I'm sure more circuits will come to mind.
     
  8. The overall load on similar 6V and 12V systems is roughly the same, but the 12V system require 1/2 the current. So your existing switches if working right will be fine, in fact probably better than any replacement you can buy given the current reported quality of them.

    One thing I will suggest is maintain the same wire sizes as the 6V system, that will keep voltage drop lower for a better performing system.
     
    Moedog07 likes this.

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