Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 30 Roadster build need some guidance

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dalton Fox, Jan 2, 2023.

  1. Dalton Fox
    Joined: Dec 30, 2022
    Posts: 6

    Dalton Fox

    Here is what i am starting with .

    Wanting to build something looking similar to what they would have back in the day when ww2 ended and they were buying stuff from the junkyards.

    Was thinking about keeping everything on the body the way it is fix just the worst of the lower sheet metal and blend it with the patina. Finish upholstery on the wood panels. Find a dash and gauges (do not know where to start with that even ) Then put a small block chevy and a th350 in it. adapt to the original rear end and put disc breaks up front. Drums in the rear if possible . Also have an original style 4" drop axel for the front . Want it as low as possible with the original suspension setup. Would love to use the wire wheels that it came on . Do not know what spindles can be used to use disks up front or what to do with the rear to make it at least drums . I dont know if i need to box the frame x brace it or if i need to do more metal work for it to not be a total pile etc . I like it the way it sits just want it lowered front and back with a rake look to it and have a v8 setup really . Very new to all of the roadster stuff .

    Heres a walk around video

    20230101_210829.jpg
     
    oliver westlund and Acres like this.
  2. the search engine is your friend. but i'll tell ya, you'll have a hell of a time finding that 350/350 combo right after WW2 in any junk yard. Or disc brakes either for that matter. A 'traditional' build is a STEEP learning curve.
     
  3. HSF
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 248

    HSF
    Member
    from Lodi CA

    A V8. Not Chevy though, look it up..,......
     
  4. And one more piece of advice. If you want to play in this sandbox, you better have real deep pockets and real thick skin. This place just loves spending your money, tieing up your time and telling you what to do..
     
    Dalton Fox and INVISIBLEKID like this.
  5. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 4,082

    oldiron 440
    Member

    The cheapest way to build is starting with as complete a car as possible. What you spend up front can save you both time and money looking for parts...
    At one time older restorations were cheap and a good place to start , but I don't know what they are going for now...
     
  6. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    Once again...

    You need to study this book if you are serious about your endevour. Then you'll be much better placed to ask more specific questions. Enjoy the ride.
    [​IMG]
     
    Dalton Fox and Happydaze like this.
  7. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

  8. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 2,862

    oliver westlund
    Member

    Figure out the drivetrain you wanna run and buy a cheap donor. Im running a lincoln 337 flathead in my roadster, bought a 49 lincoln with bad cancer for 400 bucks with a decent drivetrain....sold the bumpers for 500, radio for 125, cpl other bits for 150.... s****ped the rust for 100, i got paid to take my drivetrain!
     
    Dalton Fox likes this.
  9. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,646

    31Apickup
    Member

    If you truly want a car done at the WWII style, study the book shown above. For a first build, keep it simple. Use early Ford hydraulic brakes up front. Find a flathead or early 50’s OHV engine (Olds, Caddy,etc). Also check out Joey Ukrup’s roadster and how he has been slowly progressing it.
     
  10. Mo rust
    Joined: Mar 11, 2012
    Posts: 894

    Mo rust
    Member

    r.jpg
    You're going to want to use 37 thru 48 spindles in front and that gives you some hydraulic brake options. You can buy a kit to go disk or you can find front brakes from a 40 thru 48 ford to stay drum and be more period correct. With the disk, you'll need some adapters from Speedway to run those wire wheels or they'll bolt right on to the old drums if you go with those. As for rearend, you can go with an S10 rearend which is narrow enough to use the speedway adapters and use your wire wheels or to be period correct, you can find a banjo rearend from a mid 30's ford and either use the closed driveline or buy a kit to make it an open driveline rearend. If you go banjo, you'll need to find the brake pieces from a 40 thru 48 Ford for hydraulic brakes. That also gives you options on transmission like the S10 T5 manual 5 speed. I built my roadster with drum brakes in front and an S10 rearend.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2023
    Dalton Fox, v8flat44 and Uncle Ronn like this.
  11. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,870

    goldmountain

    It looks like there isn't any really bad modifications that you need to undo, which is good.
     
  12. If we knew where you live, there are many knowledgeable people out there to help you.
     
  13. Lakeside65
    Joined: Aug 17, 2021
    Posts: 214

    Lakeside65
    Member

    Hey man, you're local to me and about the same age. I've spent the last two years learning a lot about what you're getting ready to learn, as I'm in the process of building an A roadster on 32 rails. Shoot me a DM
     
  14. Lakeside65
    Joined: Aug 17, 2021
    Posts: 214

    Lakeside65
    Member

    I see you mentioned turbo chevelle, I think we may have even parked next to each other at Street Rod Nationals last spring. I had the only pre 48 car in the 29 and under corral ;)
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.