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Technical Need help from the transmission gods! T5 question…

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Duncan71, Jan 9, 2023.

  1. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    Hey all!

    Thought I had a good line on a transmission for my 1955 Chevy build… going to be running a mild 327 and a T5 seemed like an ok choice for running around. (I should preface that up here in Canada a TKO or S10 is very expensive and this trans has everything to hookup)

    here’s the question: I found a T5…. This is what I know about it -

    26 spline input shaft
    1352-216 Tag indicating a 4.xx first gear
    Tagged to come out of a 1993 2.2 S10
    Date stamp on the case is 1995
    Appears to be a World Class.
    Looks to be a ford pattern case (but includes and sm465 bell and adapter which are mounted)

    So this is the part I’ve confused myself. All my research says avoid 4 cylinder transmissions. Except this has a input shaft that’s usually in the v6 and v8 cars?

    Also appears the 4 cylinder models are good for only like 160lb. But all my research says the WC transmissions are good for 310 ft lbs.

    So did GM just throw a decent trans behind a tiny motor because it was easier? Or will this thing have the tiny internals that a standard 4 cyl T5 will have?

    Thanks for any help,

    Duncan
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2023
  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is the only manual transmission that GM put behind the 2.2L 4-cylinder.

    By 1993, the Non-World-Class T5 was out-of-production. By 1993 the GM pattern T5 case was out-of-production so even GM vehicles got the Ford pattern T5 case.

    The S10 T5 2.2l was the final application for the T5 at GM. Ford was still using them. Tremec was not interested in maintaining the GM line, when most S10's got an automatic.

    It is a WC T5, so it is strong enough to meet the same torque rating as any other WC T5.

    It is not well known that these torque ratings are NOT for shock load. They are the continuous-duty load, for the duration of the long test.

    The ones that have the lower torque rating are Non-World-Class. Those were used in both 4-cylinder, and V6 applications, put almost all 60º V6's. A vanishingly tiny number of Chevy Astro/GMC Safari vans got a T5 behind the 4.3l 90º V6. I could never find production numbers when I was still at GM, but only a tiny handful have been found in the wild.
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The S10 input shaft, irrespective of class, is longer than a V8/90º V6 one.

    That's why it is possible to run an adapter on an SM465 bell. It not only adapts, it also acts as a spacer to push everything back to correct for the length.
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  4. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    wow. That’s a wealth of info right there…. So I should pull the trigger and be satisfied it’s just as good as any other T5…


    I have to say Gimpy, I think this is the second time you’ve offered me a wealth of your expertise. I owe you a beer if you’re ever north of the 49th.


     
    The 39 guy likes this.
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This transmission has gear ratios that were intended to get a small pickup moving with not much more that a Honda Goldwing engine.

    First gear is 4.03:1.

    For perspective, an F-body (Camaro/Firebird) V8, with a WC T5, would have a 2.95:1 first gear.

    Do you know what your rear end ratio is? What size rear tires do you have planned?
     
  6. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    I plan on running something only marginally larger than stock - the rear end is stock, and fragile. I believe in the low 3.xx’s. If I swap I will be going to an 8.8 which I can find in 3.08s or 3.4x or similar.

    goal is to just putz around town, maybe hammer on it in a straight line a little - no speed shifting or anything.

    I the old adage “buy once cry once” but I’ll be honest, this car is such an undertaking - getting it movable and the body done will be nice. I’ll settle for runs to the gas station and then upgrade to a t56 in a few years when the trans is the only priority not resurrecting a car from a farmers field!
     
  7. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Being above the 49th, in this case, rust can be to your advantage.

    A 1991-2003 Explorer 8.8 is 3/8" narrower. Those have solid axle flanges (no access holes), so they can be re-patterned to Chevy, by any half-way decent machinist.

    Now, what rear end is in there now? If it is a drop-out center section original, it is not exactly weak.

    Plenty of drag racers used those back in the day. A whole lot of folks are still cruising those.

    If that already has low 3's for gears (chalk/tape and check), that might be ok with the low transmission gears.
     
  8. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    Correct. It is the drop out centre section. I haven’t been into it yet, but the ol turn and check method seemed like it’s a 3 and change. I also have a couple other ones kicking around so it’s likely one will be a 3.36. Apparently that is most common on the 1957 150’s.

    the 8.8 is OK too, because they are a dime a dozen up here and go for about it $150 at the junkyard. I’m running CECO smoothies so they are cross drilled for 5 x 4.5 and 5 x 4.75.

    I think I’m going to pull the trigger on this…. @ $500 Canadian pesos I’m doing ok by comparison. The nearest Ive seen is a Super T10 used and Muncie m21 both without bell housings (also hard to find) for $1600.
     
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That same rear end design, later with links and coil springs, was under the Impala, with the legendary 409.

    If 8.8's are that cheap, I should take you up on that beer offer, and load up my truck.

    They are thinning out on the ground here, and are rising in price.
     
  10. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    You tell me when!

    hub to hub with brakes and calipers as well as plates I think the last one I bought was $190 CAD. So like $130 or so. The problems is pulling them out…. u bolts get so rusted, and dropping the rear spring to roll them can be tough. Once they get crushed though, their done. Not a huge aftermarket for much up here, prices are crazy for everything bought - hence my desire to use this trans.
     
  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Get a battery powered grinder and cutoff wheels

    https://www.princessauto.com/en/4-1-2-in-20v-cut-off-cordless-grinder-kit/product/PA0009118977

    Just cut the u-bolts. Don't hurry, let the tool do the work. Use good cutoff wheels.
     
  12. Duncan71
    Joined: Jan 17, 2022
    Posts: 58

    Duncan71

    Snuck one in last time. Some of the yards around here don’t allow grinders or cut off wheels. Dumb I know!
     
  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,351

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mini-torch rig, in a backpack?
     

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