Can any tell me how deep a Y-block truck pan is? I currently have a small block Chevy and lowered my car and the oil pan is far too close to the ground (about 1”). I found a Y-block and the pan appears to have a much shallower pan. I am trying not to cut the firewall or floor if I can help it.
Y-block Ford can be seen as a not very deep,but keep in mind,the Ford block is called "Y"= As the block runs down, down below the center of crank vs SBC stops about the center of crank. Bottom of "Y" was done as extra strong.. Type n design of block casting had changed,by the time SBC came out late,the Ford Y being a older by good number years an tech had,as always kept going. I have only 2.5 inchs pan bottom to road with my "Y",even so,I added a 1/8inch steel skid plate to bottom of pan . I do have to keep a keen eye on road,an drive around pot holes an bump. I'd be thinking about move engine higher,your rod now has a good low look,moving the engine up a few inch,will keep the look. But take up a higher hump/
My 32 with the truck pan is not where I can measure it, so I can help much. But just eyeballing it, I don’t think is going to be enough shallower to solve the problem. By the way, there’s 2 truck pans. Pickups were 5 qt engine capacity, but heavy trucks were 6 or 7. All the additional in the rear sump, so they’re probably worse.
Dana's got it right; the y-block pan is shallow because the block is deep. I'd venture that the distance from the crank centerline to the pan floor is very close to that of your SBC.
Maybe I read that wrong. I thought you were trying to modify a y block pan for a sbc. Good starting point for a whole new engine. But the above is correct, the y block is a bit taller if anything, and a hell of a problem to bolt that big blower on.
Big blower and the carbs are still below the hood line, I think the problem is the motor is mounted too low. I understand you don't want to cut the firewall but .... Very nice looking car !
Fitting a y-block block instead of the sbc is a great upgrade. You can get short timing chain covers and water pumps to help with room. Oil pans can be modified to some degree as long as the volume remains the same. A truck rear sump y-block is a lot shallower than a car one. It's interchangeable with the correct oil pick up.
so to get back to the original question. I have a Y block with a car pan in my '30 sedan and it is 6" below the bottom of the block, that puts it at 9" below the centerline of the crank. Also have a motor on the stand with the truck pan, it is the same with 6" below the block and 9" below the centerline of crank. Now, this truck pan is NOT the heavy duty pan, it is the medium duty truck pan but it is the rear sump truck pan. Hope this helps.
Not HAMB friendly, and not cheap, but you might consider a dry sump to gain clearance. Some of the roundy round guys might have a used setup a little less costly.
What is the length of the y block from the fan to the bell housing? I think my blower snout is about 7-8” from the front of the block. Without it, I should be able to move the y block forward allowing me to raise the engine a little bit.
Sorry buddy but a dry sump is a real WASTE of money. You can only go as low as the flywheel permits. On several of my hot rods. I built circle track pans but only as low as the flywheel. With side sump extension to retain oil capacity. Some even with trap doors. On a Y block I used a SBC pick up, NO it's not a bolt on. Of course on SBC I used a 153 tooth flywheel. How low can you go? On a pavement super late model I used dry sump. Quartermaster SMALL flywheel. Now the trans is the lowest point. I rotated it about 15 degree to the right. Gained about an inch ground clearance. Used a steel ****terschield bell housing. Drilled 3 new holes and welded on a tab for the 4th.
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