A few stupid questions?

I’ve spent a little time trying to find these answers by searching the forum, but I feel like I’m sifting through “the haystack” looking for that “needle”. So in advance, I apologizes if these are topics that have come up before and I just didn’t find it in my search. If any of these questions have, please guide me to the thread.

I’m a novice when it comes to cars and I haven’t found the information I’ve been looking for so I thought I’d post it here and find the expertise I need. I recently purchased a 1949 ford and I have a few ideas of things I would like to do with it, but I’m trying to compile a budget to do so. The pervious owner and I had little contact in the transaction of the purchase of the vehicle (bought the car through his nephew who knew about as much as I do), so I don’t know these answers.

Question 1: To the best of my knowledge, the 8BA flathead engine in the car requires lead additive as I found a few empty bottles in the trunk of the car. Based on this discovery, I assume that the engine still has cast valve seats which is what I’ve read that requires the lead in gas. I’ve only filled the car up once and did add lead additive to the fill up. What is it on a car that makes the difference between using unleaded and leaded gas? Am I wasting time adding this lead additive? Is there a way to convert an engine that requires lead to an unleaded engine beyond the seats that I don’t know about?

Question 2: The car is currently on a 6v system. I would like to convert the car to a 12v system and I’m attempting to make a “shopping list” as to spread out my spending habits over time instead of completely going into debt. I’ve seen a lot of wiring kits out there that take care of the wires and fuses, but what else is needed? Other than a obvious battery and generator, what else needs to be replaced to fully convert the system over from 6v to 12v. What can remain or can be converted to not ruin the nostalgic look under the hood?

Question 3 -: The transmission is a three (on the tree) speed manual which is fun to drive, but I think a few more gears are more to my liking. I’ve been reading a lot of articles on adding a Borg-Warner/TREMEC T-5 5-speed transmission to a flathead with a lot of kits for sale all over the web. A 4-cylinder, '83-'87 Chevy S-10 pickup seems to have the transmission of choice for this conversion. Other than an obvious hole I will need to cut in the floor for the shifter, does the floor need to be altered to make room for a bell housing? I’ve been following this article I found on the conversion: http://www.flatheadv8.org/t5-swap.htm which has a lot of good information about what needs to be done including possibly removing the cross member to make it fit. My other question is (that doesn’t seem to be covered) what kind of rear end is required (or recommended) to be used on the other side of this transmission? Does this conversion also require you to use an S-10 rear end, or do I have a lot more choices?

Any and all help is appreciated on these topics.

 

lead additive is a waste of money.

 

Question 2: Other than a obvious battery and generator, what else needs to be replaced to fully convert the system over from 6v to 12v. What can remain or can be converted to not ruin the nostalgic look under the hood?

The starter although i have been told by reliable sources its not necessary, the 6v starter will burn up eventually.

 

Cornhusker Rod and Custom makes a nice S-10 T-5 conversion kit, too.

As far as rear end goes, you could go with anything that will handle the torque output of the flathead. 8" Ford, 10 bolt Chevy, or an S-10 rear end should be just fine. A 9" or 12 bolt would be overkill. You're not limited to only the S-10 rear end because you will need a custom driveshaft anyway. A driveshaft shop can set it up with whatever front yoke and rear U-joint you need. Here are some tips on measuring and figuring what you need: http://www.iedls.com/measure.html

Chris

 

The starter although i have been told by reliable sources its not necessary, the 6v starter will burn up eventually.[/quote]

Better not say that around my 8N Ford tractor. It's origionally 6 volt and I've been starting it with 12 volts for the last 26 years, no problem. A 6 volt starter is wound twice as heavy as a 12 volt. The only thing to be careful of is not to grind away for a prolonged period, just engage the starter for a short burst and let it rest for a few seconds. A well tuned engine will start the first try. I use it 3-4 times a week (more in the winter plowing snow) so maybe " eventually" hasn't come yet.

Frank

 

On the 12 volt conversion. You need to change all the light balbs. You will need a voltage reducer for the fuel guage, unless you change the wiring the rest of the guages should be mechanical. The 6 volt starter and the 6 volt generator should work OK on the 12 volts. (least the 38 Chrysler I had did.) You will need to add a resistor and will need to change to a 12 volt ignition coil.

Personally, I'd change the wiring because that old cotton wrapped stuff is scarry.
Gene

 

Absolutely no need to change the rear end, particularly if you're still running the flathead. I've been running my '51 for 10 years with a ZZ3 crate motor and the stock rear end, and have had no ill effects.

 

i had a guy tell me i couldnt run unleaded gas in my 68 chevy 327 motor..said it wouldnt run right..he said in 1968 the motors were built for leaded gas..maybe but i have been running regular pump gas in my 68 caddy motor for 3 years and my 68 327 chevy motor for a while with no problems and never any lead additives

 

#1 Leaded fuel was used to help prevent pre-igniton pinging and also because the valves were not harded metal. Prolonged use of unleaded fuel will, it is reported, ultimately burn your valves. How long youcan use a 60 year old motor before you have problems,I don't know. I '63 Ford tractor that I run lead additive in abouthalf the time. Doesn't run badly either way,but it's a tractor.

#2. I also converted the tractor to 12 volts-best thing I ever did. I didn't change the starter,but went from a generator to a single wire alternator,changed the headlights,used a different coil with a built in resistor,never changed my plug range. Didn't have to worry about wipers,radio,heater,etc,but you would in a car.

Here are a couple of Good articles on the 6 to 12 conversion.

http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/12voltconversion.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/six12.htm

#3. Can't help with the tranny. Good luck.

 

Nope, just the exhaust seats. The lead is supposed to coat the seats and provide a cushion for the valve. I burned a valve in my '56 hemi even using the additive... New seats are a cheap addition to a rebuild.

I converted my 50 Buick to 12 volt and when I got my starter rebuilt the guy replaced the 6 volt solenoid with a 12 volt version. It works fantastic. You can get voltage reducers from Napa. You'll need one for each electrical gauge. If you keep the original radio you'll need something that'll deliver about 10 amps or so.

 

I wanted to say thanks for all the great responces. I appreciate all of your insight.

 

I posted some stuff here about gauges. Ford used a single instrument regulator on its gauge panels through the 70s - not one per guage. I got one with a beat up guage cluster for $7.00. The senders should be fine as-is.

NAPA part description here. These are just for guages. Like Gr8 said, you'll need something else with greater current capacity for the radio.

On the T-5 swap: With the shift mechanism on top of the case rather than on the side, you may need to raise your transmission tunnel over the whole length of the tranny.

Chris

 

No problem using the 6V starter but you CANNOT use the 6V generator...................

 

You CAN use the 6V generator by simply replacing the voltage regulator, although its not recommended, as it will sooner or later burn up the field coils. Change all the bulbs, volt-reducer VRC603 at any decent parts house.... Good to go

 

Any more info on this regulator? How many amps its good for? Here's a part # I found for the autozone version: IVR601. $16.99!! Napa also carries there own version.

 

Better not say that around my 8N Ford tractor. It's origionally 6 volt and I've been starting it with 12 volts for the last 26 years, no problem. .

Frank[/quote]

Ditto.... my 8n has been 12 volts to the starter for 10 years now.

 

This may be a dumb question...but who out there running a 12v system has a 12v starter for a flathead? Ive never heard of such a thing. My flatty starter would usually start within 1/2 a second. As Fab said tho, a well tuned engine. All my buddies that were older than me (thier 60s) would laugh at how well that stupid kids flathead ran lol. I would rewire it too, I just rewired my Merc and have to order up a kit for a newly aquired 51 Ford. All in all the only way to go to convert to 12v and cure all future wiring goblins from surfacing due to crappy faulty 50 yr old wire.

 

An early 60's generator can be bought rebuilt. Mac's have them
Its the earliest Ford 12 volt generator. These are the same diameters as the 6 volt gennies.
If you want to adapt it to your engine. Simply remove the front plate on the housing and have it turned down to the same diameter as the body.
The easiest way to rewire for 12 volts is to buy a 8 circuit wiring kit.
Kwikwire is a good source. Before you start, take all the wiring bundles apart.
Figure out what wires go into the engine compartment and front and rear lights. Buy some woven black wiring sheathing in the largest diameter and smallest diameters. Macs also has a good selection. This stuff will be slide onto the outside exposed wires to the engine. This should keep your engine compartment looking traditional.