Although I really admire a separately painted short block and head and then assembled with the obvious head gasket in place, anyone who has wrestled with a 70 pound? head is comfortable with assembling and painting afterwards. They all came long block painted in full from the factory so there's that. I do find it interesting that people like pink but blue pleases me.
This is the first generation of the Clifford intake for 235-261 Chevrolets with integral heat chamber. My machinist friend carefully mated the surfaces to the allowance of the gasket shown above. I'll venture to say I will be one of a very very few to run this combination without an obvious exhaust leak at the mating surfaces. Clifford hit the 'EASY' button in my humble opinion by introducing the water heated model. Personally, don't like the water routing or visible lines. Carb is pictured above Holley 390 cfm.
As stated Chris passed a couple of years ago. Very reclusive but a heck of an electronics tech. Apparently a pretty good mechanic too. Found a pic of him and a partial of his 48 Chevy Coupe.
I understand the water lines issue, and actually I still struggle with making them look good. But - as I understand it - the water heating has the benefit to keep the intake at the same temperature (around the water temperature) all the time, so it actually works as a "cooling" too. Not sure if it really makes a significant difference in power/mileage etc. if the intake is a steady 180ish degrees. or more at exhaust temperature though. I had a home made split exhaust header (made from the original) before and an Offenhauser dual setup, that worked like yours (steady exhaust heat). I needed an insulation spacer between the intake and the carbs, cause the where getting to hot and that caused all sorts of shenanigans. Frank
I have a 261 motor in the shop getting built for my 1939 Chevy sedan. I want to put a automatic behind it & change out the old closed shaft rear end. I have 6 lug 15" wheels with low profile tires. I am guessing that a 700R trans would be a good trans. But I have no clue what rear end fits best under a 39 Chevy & the best HWY gears for a 700R. Disc brakes would be nice to. It looks like my original rear end is 62" wide, but I would like a little more room between the outer fenders. So I think a rear end aprox. 60". Can any one give me some ideas. I will also need to find an adapter and not sure what other parts I need to make this happen.
I have a #848 head , two 261 cams & a full set of pistons, I believe 40 over & rods I won't be using. I had a 261 built for me years ago & never put a mile on it. Then one winter I put the car outside & forgot it had no anti freeze & cracked the block. Right now I have another 261 in a shop getting built, using the parts from the cracked block. Only part I'm buying new is a bigger cam. Baisley all I'm using off the new motor is the block. I am not using anything else. If any one needs something I won't be using, you can call me? Darrell @ 541-659-8891 I'm in So. Oregon
Tom Langdon sells an adaptor to put a later model GM/Chev transmission behind the 235/261. Langdon's Stovebolt Engines: 586-739-9601 With the O/D, I would recommend something in the 3.70 range. You will get low end performance with reasonable revs on the highway. Warren
I just read on Langdon's web site that he will no longer sell the adaptor kit as of July - 2022. He suggest contacting Berry @ BGG Motorsports in Arizona for the kits. He gives there # 503-308-2533. I don't see a web site for BGG, so I will need to call them later today... Langdon said that he sold Berry @ BGG, all his kits, so BGG,s kits are Langdon's kits.. I also just looked at Buffalo Enterprise site & he shows that he has a kits. His # 360-652-7684. I will be calling them to. Does any one know if they are identically made parts as what Langdon produced? I was thinking 370 gears behind a 700R also, but this is all new to me. I see more builders mentioning 350 & 400 trans swaps, but I have not seem 700R trans mentioned much? I am mostly concerned with fuel economy since I want a daily driver.
Buffalo Enterprises phone # 360-652-7684. Ask about the flex plate and what starter it requires. Langdon is carrying fewer and fewer parts. He still advertises on the Inliner's but I see an end coming. Just like Patrick's. Buffalo has been selling this adaptor for a long time, so it should be bullet proof. They are also very near you. I am running a TH350 behind my 261 in a nostalgia dragster. Never a problem. I would definitely use the 700R for the street. I use T5s in my street cars with 3.70 gears and that combo with the O/D is perfect. Warren
I didn't get a chance to talk to Buffalo, but I did talk to Berry @ BGG Motorsports, Langdon recommended him & he sells everything I need from the upgrade radiator fan to the rear-end purchases & everything in-between. I will go with his parts. I also locked in on a S10 rear end I found local. Now I need to order a 700R trans & I will have everything I need. I will have the rear end checked & freshened-up. Then I will put the car back together again...
Flat black spray and a quick wipe of the fins with acetone gives a nice pop to the STILCO toilet paper oil filter. Oil lines, finger tight, garage is getting cold.
Threw a little respect (polished) the aluminum oil filter bracket. Grade 8 attachment bolts are way overkill, it’s all I had in the size needed.
I like the looks of having the oil filter on the block but is there room for your exhaust pipes to clear it? I mounted my finned filter to the inner fender wall on my 39 sedan, Also, they are called toilet paper filters, but I found a store bought filter to fit inside my can. I don't trust getting the correct volume flow with toilet paper. Toilet paper also louses fine particles of paper in the oil.
Yes, there’s room. I’m going to wrap the down pipes. They are close to the lines and I’d like to reduce heat. I’ve done many long distance trips and know it will help. There’s an old hand I know that was a distributor for these STILCO toilet paper filters back in the day. All that you said per toilet paper are rumors. He says that oil filters of today are good for filtering large particles, good only for capturing debris on initial start up. The toilet paper filters filter on a microscopic level.
Modern oil filters ,big chunks, lol........Modern filters are in the 20-30 mircron range, about .0009 inches.. And other than a brief periods of high pressure during a cold start, they filter full time.... The 235/261 Chevy oil pump using a full flow filter is around 4 gallons a minute at 4000 rpm...you sure oil soaked "toilet paper" can pass that much oil....Just wondering about myself
Tony, hahahaha, I'm totally new to this filtration game, my '56 235 has never had one, 120k+ miles, changed oil 2x/year. The STILCO pictured is a bypass filter according to a couple websites. It will filter all the oil in the by and by.
I bought an original vintage Frantz Filter some years ago, but since toilet paper isn't what it was anymore (you barely can't find that greyish, thick stuff, that would double as a scotch pad) I bought a modern version that comes with special paper rolls made for it. Frank
Are you saying that you/we can buy TP rolls made for these filters? Do they come by the 12 pack, LOL?
Hate to change the subject but a friend who lived in Tularosa N.M. used to mill his 235 heads to .170. Some here probably knew him, Glen Duniven. That man could tackle every part of a build. Glynn.
Did he not run valves? I milled .125 which is pretty common and sunk the intakes to compensate and on one head we went into the jacket. Or was he using notched pistons? Warren
This past summer, I bought a pile of Chevy and GMC engines and pieces, and amongst the parts were a '54 913 head that had had the piss milled out of it and a set (well, almost a set) of McGurk pistons for a 261 that had some serious intake valve reliefs.
Germany. http://trabold.de/v1/shop/ But those rolls only fit Trabold filter housings, they are a bit smaller than typical toilet paper rolls. Frank
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