Technical Van norman tool bit repair stick weld which rod?

Hi all - so i dug out the van norman inserto valve seat tool yesterday and decided to give it a try-

the main cutter head got broken out by the ebay seller and of course i only noticed this 6 months down the road - anyway managed to get threads cleaned and new machine screws-

I need to weld a small section behind the cutter and mill it back into spec-

does it matter which rod i use? its just a filler section behind the cutter that takes a compressive load i would imagine-

i was planning on a 7018 rod-

 

Don't see why not. Just remember the SMAW process isn't know for it's surgical preciseness. But it's a good rod choice.

 

That would be fine if that’s what you have. Eutectic has a rod that I’ve used a lot which I stronger and machines well. 680 is there number. You’d have to buy more than you need though and it’s not cheap. And I agree that that’s a small part to try to stick weld depending on your skill level.

 

Heat the whole piece to 500 degrees and TIG it. Small pass, let it cool a couple minutes, another small pass and so on until it's built up enough to mill it back down to size.

 

I would take it to someone with a Tig welder

 

well managed ok with the 7018, milled it down pretty good enough, only to find the little fixed cutter for the valve size I need has been custom ground down - i did get 4 valve seats in the kit that are a perfect size but the OD is odd -

what are the common valve guide sizes - in this case a 1.6" chevy exhaust valve- the van norman shows fractional steps, is that still the case today?

I think this system was designed for flat heads because the cutter is almost the size of the valve and the set screw hit the cylinder head :/ guess i threw $500 down the loo on this lot..

ill keep messing with it and see if i can get it to work somewhat ok-

 

Picture of the set screw and the cylinder head, please?

 

best i could come up with, im going to try and make and adjustable head but these are the 2 set screws i put in.. ill have to turn them down and cut slots i think..

this system is from the 30s or 40s - no cutters available si will have the grind and try make my own.. still learning how to use the lathe and mini mill.. and forgive the porous welding i was using a damp piece of cement to shield the original surface and threaded holes and it caused a mess but protected them well despite spitting..

 

i have already started machining down an old engine hoist jack shaft for a new cutter, and i think i might try calculate if this was ground on a mt3 taper because the mt2 is a little loose.. ill take some measurements down but bought a taper attachment for tail stock so if i can practice on some nylon till i get it right i might be able to machine the inside to match the original boring head.. then cut in a keyway and try make it take the new style replaceable cutter tips.. i only work on iron chevy and ford stuff, nothing spectacular - just a small marine repair shop i own.

 

Next time try a piece of copper instead. Aluminum, a carbon electrode. My choices 1,2 3. Ya did good.

 

Would it be possible to tell if the cutter head is a morse taper #3? My #2 is just a tad loose- I did buy an offset tail chuck for the lathe with a live center to cut tapers with possibly- like to try and fab a smaller cutter with an adjustable blade if possible-