I just bought a '75 Granada with a 250, C4, and 8". The plan is to put this combo into a '61 Comet and replace the 170 and 3 speed. The 250 has a stuck intake valve, and the thing has a good 135,000 miles on it. I'm going to take the mill to a machine shop and have the head and the block done right. I'm thinking a mild cam (a little more than stock) and get that thing to breath a little better. (port the head intake and exhaust). What are some recomendations on things to have done or a good set up? This will be on a smog free vehicle. I also posted this topic on fordsix.com (just so you know) On the front page of that site is a break down of levels on builds. I'm looking at something between a level 2 and level 3. They mentioned to replace the timing set with one from a 69-72 250 I want the car to be set up as a good daily driver that can keep up with traffic here in San Diego, and have the thing get up and go when the gas pedal is hit. What would be a good cam, carb, intake, and exhaust combo? thanks in advance.
You already know the problem of overcoming the integral intake on your engine. One of my friends has a 200 powered '66 Mustang, and we milled the original carb riser off, enlarged the opening, and made an adapter out of an aluminum block to mount a Motorcraft 2bbl. from a 302 on it. It works quite well, and is a noticable improvement. He also has a set of Clifford tubing headers, a Crane street hydraulic cam, and a Mallory dual point. The dual glasspacks get a lot of notice!
wow im thing of about the same combo i have a 61 comet and have located a 75? monarch with a 250 but i guess it has an 8.8? i think the fuel pump went out and filled the crankace hope it didnt wash the brarings i was just goin to thro it in and go maybe split the man afold and think about a diff carb set up i here that the stock fan wil not work and u need an electic on the front or the rad?? oya i would also like to use the front diskbreaks will the bolt right up??
the 8.8 has the diff cover on the back, and the 8" comes out the front like the 9" diff. what do you mean split the manifold? it's part of the head. I'm not sure about the brakes just yet, but I'm planning on trying to put them on along with the power steering.
Slick Mo Fo, I hope ya' don't mind if I slip in a few more proud parent type pics of my '61 in your posts : Jack Clifford, legendary six cylinder racer, record holder and engine builder's shop, performance built Ford 250 six engine- 10:1 Pistons, Clifford rods, Clifford 272H Cam, line bored & balanced bottom end, Cloyes timing set, Fisher balancer, 1.88 int. valves, Ported and relieved, Offy 3X1 w/3 Holleys, Re-curved distrib., the works, a few mysteries... Powerband
Hey Powerband, no problem at all. Actually I was hoping you would. You posted a couple for me before when my gal first got the car. More than likely I'll have a bunch of questions for you, so don't be suprised if I drop you a message in your PM box. First question--- How was the match up with the motor mounts?
i'd go search on fordsix about using different rods or pistons. there have been a few variations of the same theme discussed, i can't remember off the top of my head which rods or pistons to use, but one version was to use the stock rods from certain 4 cyl taurus cars. the journals are supposed to be the same size, but roughly 1/8" longer than the 250 rods. this will tighten up the huge deck height ford used on the 250s to lower compression, i'd then mill the block to get zero deck, then open up the combustion chamber and dish the piston to get whatever compression ratio you want. sometimes hot roddin is fixing the stuff the factory botched up. i'll be building a 250 this winter, other than the deck height adjustment, i will pretty much be shopping from the fordsix parts site. i'm currently running a 3x1 setup, but i'd really like to spring for one of the forthcoming alum heads if i can swing the $$.
Motor mounts issue solved by using (new) originals and knocking out studs to frame mounts and redrilling to the new position - outward @ 3/8" on each side.. I used all Grade 8 Hdwe but I plan next to drill and bolt through the two plates and rubber sandwich and make them semi - rigid. With the torque of the built 250 I'm seriously worried about ripping them up when I dump the clutch... (The paint I sprayed up into bracket holes to mark new position to dril and I did use two 3/8 boltsl)
The Clifford built 250 "Legacy Mill" after much research was discovered to have AMC 258 Pistons. The 258's fit in @ .070 overbore and they have an increased "Compression Height" which means they are taller from the Pin to top. This additional height makes for almost a Zero Deck height. Also a flattop or original dish type would push the CR through the roof but the 258 Pistons have a deep (@23CC) dish and with a modern composite gasket it works out to @ a 9:1 CR ! . The only change is the Piston Pin of the Ford is few thousandths larger so a simple slight enlarging of the Piston's Pin bore is neccessary... see forum thread: http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34610&highlight= Powerband
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