Hello all, I am working on my 32 ford 5 window coupe project. Money is tight so I need to do this myself. I have never done it before. I have a 327 and an exhaust manifold. I know I want Porter or Smitty mufflers. Plus it will be a 2 inch system. Can you all please help me with: 1. Pics of a 32 ford frame & exhaust system. 2. Recommend exhaust hangars. 3. How far apart do exhaust hangars need to be. 4. Basically any information that could help someone who has never done this before. I will be buying an exhaust kit from Amazon and have a welder. Thank you.
Have you got a lift? A TUBING bender? If you're planning on using that pipe bender that HF sells, just dont. Save your money and pay a professional, you'll be time, money and frustration ahead. Exhaust work is just hard to learn on the fly. Good Luck.
I recently built a set of headers and found these mandrel bent sections from Speedway to be very useful, and nice and thick. Not too costly either, and you get multiple bends in each piece. Highly recommend them. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Comb...nd-Header-Tubing-Mild-Steel-2-Inch,11308.html
I make/install most of the parts for my hot rods. However, you will be money and time ahead to go to an exhaust shop and let them make the pipes. I have Porters on my Nailhead and really like them (28 Model A).
It depends on how you plain on running the exhausts, Exit Out side before rear fenders/tire? , Over axle Or under ? Slip or weld ? stay with good Ga like walker , I believe 16 .035-.050 Thick The tubing sold @ AutoZone /Avance is thin & wast of $ Doing Cheap made /Quality, you will be doing it again, If not tucking ,it can be done for less then $200 minus mufflers , out the side or straight under axle , with 1 elbow bends @ each manifold but it will hang ! Nice free-flowing radiuses tubing will Be in $350 ish to ?? Each elbow will be $30-50 Or can use J tubing $20-30 each Fabrication donuts mild steel $40ish each ( for tight radius) 10 ft stick $70ish Summit tubing / exhaust pieces are nice There is universal kits in a box Exhaust tools will be needed On a lift is preferred like mentioned above
I bought an exhaust kit thru Amazon also came with all the bends, cut, fit and weld up, no big deal. Speedway has premade head pipes which simply that part. You don’t need a bender. I’d put hangers at the mufflers and another set on the tail pipes. I only started fanning mine on 32 ch***is so don’t have photos yet.
Here’s what I did on my ‘32. I ordered mandrel bent pieces online and built it myself. I built my own hangars too.
The 2 1/4" kit from Speedway worked for me. The first side will take the most time (be patient and tack only at first), then do the other side (a mirror image, if nothing is in the way). Yes, it will take time. Yes, you may get frustrated. Yes, you did it Yourself!!
On my 5 window we used a 16 gauge 2 inch kit with bends and straights that I bought on E-Bay. I got the flanges at the local muffler shop and the 12 inch Flow Master mufflers from Speedway. We've done several this way and am planning on doing the same thing on my latest roadster. 2.5 inch looks cool but I use 2 inch because it's easier to run and it's adequate for a SBC. I keep everything inside the frame nothing below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4035456258...LgK-_UWTMW&var=&widget_ver=artemi***edia=COPY Look at this Brady this what I used should be able to complete the car with what is included.
The ebay kit posted ,in description does not say the Ga of the exhaust tubing . If 16-14 ga thats a good price ,
I did some research before I bought the E-Bay kit and they claimed it was 16 gauge. I have not opened the box yet.
Thank you all for the pictures and information. 1. How much clearance between the exhaust and any other object is needed? 2. Please post a picture of a good exhaust hangar. 3. And everything has to be soft mounted?
I'd never done it before either and it wasn't hard, but on mine, the body was off the rolling ch***is. **MOST IMPORTANT: I mocked up the routing using cardboard paper towel rolls, Christmas wrapping rolls, etc.** Then: I bought Patriot brand 16 gauge J-bends from Summit. 2.5" tubing, true duals (no X- or H-pipe) 24" Thrush gl***packs. Three simple auto-parts store rubber hangers on each side (6 total) -one right after the header flange. -one right before each muffler. -one near the rear bumper Make sure *ALL* your cuts are perpendicular to the tubing direction so the ends are perfectly round. I borrowed a friend's band saw & belt sander to help with this. All MIG-welded with my trusty Lincoln 140C.
There are a bunch of good ones on the market nowadays, wish they were available back when I built my system, some of the most "effective" ones are those adapted from the OEM designs, though not the prettiest to some people. One example. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36516 This style has urethane isolators, has been popular for a long time on various categories of hot rods. Lots of inspiration here: https://www.google.com/search?clien...HUhcDucQ0pQJegQIDBAB&biw=1280&bih=800&dpr=1.5
Mine from 30 years ago, - from when I didn’t know what I was doing, - bought some mandrel bends on the advice of good friend @Gofannon and learned to gas weld. Really pleased with it, although looks pretty mediocre to what others can do…… had to route it around brake booster and battery box, used 20mm x 3mm flat steel for hangers and old exhaust rubbers from a wrecked car. Then painted it white……
I’m just playing around with exhaust on a 32 ch***is for my roadster project now so here’s a couple pics of what I’m doing. Still debating the over/under rear axle routing, but the pics may still help. Used these exhaust bobbins on the last 32 5W and really liked how they worked, so using the idea again on this exhaust. Just going to cut and attach the crudely drawn hangers today. PS: just remember the closer you go to the floorboard under your feet and seat, the toastier your feet and seat are going to get.
And when picking pipe size, here’s a couple cheat sheets I use. Lots of places on the web where you can calc optimal pipe size too.
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