I have always had a shop disassemble my V8 QC rear to powder paint the bells. I know there's a sequence in the disassembly and assembly so you don't lose the preset but cannot at this time get a return call from Winters. Can anyone help? Thanks
I believe the original banjos had gaskets for shims between the bells and center case to set carrier preloads. The winters has shims under the carrier bearings to determine preload. Just take note of how it comes apart, if none of the bearing shims are changes it should go back together the same way you took it apart. Being the carrier bearings are pressed on, you shouldn't loose track of them.
Hemi Deuce. I plan on doing it myself but there's a proper sequence of disassembly and reassembly so the factory tolerances are maintained.. I just want to do it right. To expensive to screw it up. Sorry I'm so ignorant.
No "sequence", just don't lose track of loose shims ! They all need to go back in the same location. BUT...yes, assembling and tightening the endbells / axle tube bolts is like tightening any other group of fasteners..! A criss-cross pattern SHOULD be used. I took mine apart after finding a bunch of garbage in the axle tubes after I had it shortened. I took the whole thing apart to clean it, before putting it in the car. Been it there many miles with no problems. Mike
@krylon32, The only thing I can add to what the others have said is; After removing the axles, take off the driver's side bell/trumpet. The ring gear/differential can be lifted out as a unit. Reverse to go back together. I use Silicone RTV to seal it up. If you have the Winters/Spadaro kit, the carrier bearing preload and backlash are set with paper gaskets.
Thanks Gearhead, I kinda remember how it was done but I'm old and it's been about 5 years since we did the last one.
Hey guys. @krylon32 sorry you didn't get a return call from the shop yet—I know return calls have been a little slow because our assembly department's been swamped turning out rears, but that's something we can improve on. To answer your question, here's how we do it: • Any shims are actually pressed in under the bearing on the carrier, not between the bells and the center, so preload won't change with disassembly. • Remove the passenger's side bell first, then remove the driver's side while holding the carrier (this will keep it from falling out while you're working). • Now you'll have four parts: the two bells, the center section and the carrier. There are O-rings in the bells—remove them before paint. • Be sure to mask the bells' mounting surface prior to paint/powder coat to keep them clean from overspray. • After paint, just reassemble in reverse order: • Replace the O-rings in the bells and make sure the mounting surfaces of the bells are clean prior to assembly. • Set the driver's side bell on the ground, set the carrier on it and bolt on the center section. • Reinstall the passenger's side bell. • We do not recommend using silicone on the bells—the O-rings will keep them sealed. • Torque the bolts to 30 lb.-ft. I realize this differs slightly from some other advice given, and that could be for a few reasons. For one, we've been making these rears for a long time and have made improvements over the years. I'm not sure if there were shims at the bells at some point, or if silicone was needed on the bells on some older rears. Also, everyone's got routines that have worked for them, and guys like @GearheadsQCE are no strangers to quick changes! This info I've provided is based on all our current V8 QC's. In fact, we just installed one in a friend/customer's roadster for some horsepower testing we're doing, and when we took the rear apart for paint we went through this exact process with no issues in terms of sealing or preload settings. Hopefully this helps, but please chime in if you've got further questions we can answer. Thanks!
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