So, IF the mh gauges work, why not remove the bezels, & remake the face plates into something a bit more aesthetically appealing? Anything from old SW to 30s-40s-lookalikes, to whatever-spins-your-crank? Needles look nice, ranges are already there, as are the use-designations, so you don't have to figure that out. Just check to make sure it's correct. That way you could clean the inside, lube if needed, etc. There is a good how-to or two for dis***embly/re***embly & also gauge-face reprinting, on the hamb, one good one from a guy named Tim, other guy I can't remember. I suppose the worst thing that could happen - other than ruining them - is needing new bezels. Then you could choose from chrome, br***, black-whatever... & the senders should be fairly easy to get too. What I don't particularly like is the gauge panel material/look they came in. Otherwise, you have them, no extra $$$-layout, & what's better than modifying what you have into something even better? Marcus...
If it were me id make a big unnecessary project out of making new faces for those gauges. I’d spend so much time and money in the end I’d say it would have been better to just buy new gauges. But that’s what building hotrods is about
Yup, those look really good. Nice font-style n all. . May as well spend a little effort n time on your gauges, you'll be looking at them for a long while. . Marcus...
Looks like a unique and fun project. Curious how you plan on insolating the cab from the diesel and road noise.
Most of the noise from a "rowdy v8" comes from the exhaust. A diesel has a lot of mechanical noise, including diesel knock that comes directly from the engine. A diesel truck has a LOT of sound deadening between the engine and cab.
I guess I need to look into that before I start slicing and dicing stuff. Are we talking dynomat? Or double firewalls and floors? Or something else?
Just invest in a good stereo system and crank up the volume. No need to waste money on sound deadening stuff lol .
You want to still be able to hear when You're in your 60s! Nothing makes a short trip seem long like excess noise.
Dad came up with an idea for a dolly to hold the drivetrain parts until we need them....be bolted the front axle to the trailer hitch. Once we get the wiring and hydraulics removed, we will cut the frame and end up a "stubby bob" looking pile of parts. That front axle makes me want to build a big high boy, but it is going to get fenders. My flatbed gives a hint to the size. Not a real mock up, but something that motivates me.
Did I mention that this is going to be a big SOB? 9R22.5 front tires tower over the flatbed on my chevy.
Yes it is. It just has way too much stuff in it. the window above the back door came out of a 1920's ford dealership in Tunica, MS. It was a front window that looked in on the showroom.
Love the Barn, those trusses are a lot work and time consuming. My 1st garage was build in a similar manner because I wanted upstairs storage to eliminate the clutter. It almost worked!
Still plugging away at harvesting the parts from the motorhome. I did happen to find pics of someone else's project that used a cab that looks a whole lot like my Oshkosh cab. I don't recognize the front sheetmetal, but the proportions are similar to what I have in mind.
Collecting parts for my monster 4 links (front and rear suspensions). I'm using off the shelf big truck torque links for the bars. Air bags are also big truck stuff. Things are about to get interesting. Oh yeah, I decided to build a new frame using the motorhome frame rails. I'm hoping 1990's steel is better than 1950 steel. ...and I don't trust the cast steel pieces that are welded onto the front of the Seagrave frame. 9 inch c-channel should be overkill for anything I do. One inch mounting bolts! I'm going to do something similar to this. I might arch the frame rail to tuck into the fender. Mock ups will dictate how crazy this thing will be. Any guesses if there is any difference in a step notch and a pie cut/welded frame sweep? My guess that the weakest weld is the limiting factor.
Also,I think I am back to keeping the Seagrave cowl and windshield V and grafting the oshkosh cab roof/ back onto that. If i have to build new doors, so be it. I think I will be happier in the end.
Donor frame rails are almost ready to start playing with. Today I'm going to try and mock some pieces up and see what the frame needs to look like. From this.... To this was way more work than I would have guessed.
This is 5" lower than stock. 255/70r22.5 fills the wheelwell pretty good and still has about 5-6" of uptravel. I should be able to fit the suspension at this height without C-notching. .....but it sure won't look "low". The stude sure looks small. 5" lower than stock puts the bottom of the grill at 18" off the pavement.
I tried clocking the fenders to lower the leading edge and make the rear side flow rearward at a lower angle. Not sure it is an improvement No idea how much uptravel something this big needs.
I found more parts on marketplace for this beast. A pair of super singles similar to what are on the back of the gray one. They have the wheels mounted deep side in. I'm gonna have the deep part out, I think. I also bought a mack truck radiator. Size looks like it might work with my grill.
I started making cardboard templates for my 4 link. I am doing a mix of the first design I found and this one. One thing I'm doing different is having both link mounts above the axle. I am doing this to get the links closer to the centerline of the spindle (why, I don't know. It just feels right). I am also ising a panhard instead of a diagonal link.
Nothing terribly exciting done recently, but I did remove the pedal ***embly and steering box so that I can move the front axle from the RV location to the Seagrave location. I also decided to do a notch up front and tuck the airbags up in the frame to get the truck lower. Something like this.... Ultimately, I want it to look very similar to this...but bigger. I can't wait to cut all of that crazy "velvet ride" bracketry off. Damn these tires are big. It is gonna be fun making the rear fenders sit down over these things.
You could also look into city-bus junkyards for suspension stuff, or other big-rig stuff. But that big stuff is a ***** to work with. No thanks, better you than me... . When you find one that looks ok for parts, you might contact that company that ran it. If it's a large city/state, they probably still have records on what was done, when. Lots of incredibly stupid things get done, like rebuilt mills, trans, diffs, brakes, a/c, etc; that are put on just before junking - due to immediate need for a super-short time, & fed/state rules on keeping things in "decent" shape. Only the govt... A lot of the small companies run them into the ground & they're worth less than s**** - due to the work involved. Marcus...
The motor home was in pretty decent shape other than the stupid suspension design (actual axles and brakes are good) and the water damage from the roof leak. I just have to re-arrange everything to make it a hot rod.
The Jalopy Journal
