I have a question regarding 1956 Ford Customline brakes. Can they be adapted to fit on Model A spindles? Have any of you done it? I’ve searched on this forum and on the internet in general, but found no reference to this particular adaptation. All the info for upgrading Model A brakes uses either ‘40s style ford brakes with the adapter sleeve, spacer ring and the mounting holes either filled and re-drilled or slotted. A bit of background... back in 2015, I started a thread on here showing the start of a project using 1936 Chev parts. I had the complete front end (except springs), the rear end and engine/gearbox (missing some parts), along with some other miscellaneous parts. Due to having to move house (I rent), I had to sell it all and the thread hasn’t been touched since 2016. I’m now gathering parts again with the aim of doing a ‘23/’24 T Roadster and have started with an English Fordson E83W front axle, which is basically a narrow version of the Model A. I also have a set of Model A spindles and kingpins and I’m looking for something for the brakes. I was going to go for English Mark 3 Zephyr discs and adapt them, but there were some 1956 Ford Customline brakes for sale recently on our auction site, Trade Me which got me thinking. Since the Zephyr discs are quite expensive, as are the 40s Ford drums, I’m thinking about alternatives, hence the question regarding the Customline brakes... which were quite affordable. I didn’t know what the Customline backing plates looked like so I searched online and found this photo of some... It looks like it could potentially be modified by enlarging the large center hole to fit the A spindle, then re-drilling the four small mounting holes accordingly. Am I missing something or is it doable? I do quite like the idea of using old drums instead of discs, but cost is the determining factor. Thanks for any help. Glen.
@KiwiGlen , you might consider modifying the thread ***le to something like: Adapting 56 Ford brakes to Model A spindle? To get more views.
I've done as you suggested... thanks for that. Let's see if anyone has any advice on this adaptation. Glen.
I’d be worried about the offset of backing plate to the drum. Sure you can enlarge the hole and redrill the plate, but is the shoe going to be covered after you find the proper combination of bearings to adapt the late hub to the early spindle? You can’t just be “close “.
I think I understand what you’re saying… Your concern is the length of the Model A spindle compared to the Customline one, where the bearings sit on the spindle to locate the hub… correct? So the ID of the bearings would need to fit the Model A spindle and the OD of the bearings would need to fit the hub races. And the hub needs to be the right length so the drum sits in the right spot in relation to the shoes… do I have that right? Glen.
I think it's gonna be a lot of work to make those fit and work, if at all possible. That fact that you're asking if it's possible. Tells me you probably don't have a lathe or other large and expensive tools that may be needed. I say this, mainly because if you don't and need to PAY someone to turn adapters...you're probably gonna end up over budget and better off having used stuff that bolts right on. Now that is just an ***umption...but something to think about. If I was looking for "cheaper" brake parts. I'd be looking at 48-51 f100 brakes. Drums are in the 50 dollar range.
Glen, use RockAuto to find your bearing sizes. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1338230,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1485459,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672 Click on all of the "Info" ****ons and find your dimensions. Hub length is the next trick. I don't know an easy way to find that. I'm doing a similar thing in a smaller scale. '57 100E Anglia juice brakes on upright Anglia spindles. Not bad, bearings to match the spindle and the 100E seal on backwards. The hole in the later backing plates was smaller than the spindle. I turned a stepped plug to fit the backing plate's hole and center drilled it for the pilot of a carbide hole saw like this one. It drilled the hole out perfectly. I indexed the bleed screw to the king pin and can transfer punch the new holes. I may weld here and there to build up around some of the new holes that are close to the old. Good luck, Mike
You are correct, no lathe or other fancy tools, so I’ll keep a lookout for 48-51 f100 brakes, but I doubt they’ll be $50 here in New Zealand. I'll continue to investigate the possibility of the Customline brakes, but also keep a lookout for other options. Thanks for the advice. Thanks for all that info, I’ll have a look at rockauto for the bearing sizes. Glen.
Just some FYI, the F-1 from 48-52, and the F-100 from 53-56 also had the front brakes that will almost bolt on. But the spindles they will almost bolt onto are the p***engers from 39-48, not Model A. Those spindles will fit right on a Model A axle with the same year kingpins. Sorry not what you want to hear to stay cheap, but you will be ahead in the long run.
Sometime ago Randy Nash, Deuce Roadster on here, did a tech thread where he went into pretty good detail on this swap. I dont remember the thread ***le, but you could search it out. Good Luck.
His thread was putting F100 brakes on 37-48 spindles. It's from long time ago Hamb, and some of the pics are not present. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/brakes-f100-brakes-on-37-to-48-ford-spindles.5877/
I get you're in New Zealand. But 99% of what you need is available new. All you need is backing plates and hubs. The drums, wheel cylinders and friction material are all readily available. I don't know how parts stores work over there. Are these not something they can get for ya? (Looks like Rockauto only had rears listed, but figured it was a good to point out these parts are cheap and available.) I don't know if 55 customline brakes are the same. But I have all the brakes off one of those and all the early ford brake stuff. Given some time I could take some measurements for you.
Thanks for all the replies… much appreciated. @alchemy - I hear what you’re saying and get it, but I have the Model A spindles and King Pins and I’m pretty sure SOMETHING will fit… just have to find it. @Rex_A_Lott - I’ve searched on here and found many interesting threads… not sure if that’s one of them but I’ll take another look. Most of them talk about using the 40s brakes with the available adapter kit… which would be fine if I can find some affordable 40s brakes. @big duece - I’ll check it out, but I have Model A spindles so it might not be relevant… probably still helpful though. Shame about threads with missing photos… photos help a lot. @Hitchhiker - I’ll have to investigate the shipping costs from Rockauto. I got something from there some years ago and the price was good even with shipping, but things have changed recently and shipping costs seem to have skyrocketed. I’ll check it out though. @jimpopper - Yeah, I’m pretty sure I’ve seen it, but perhaps not. I’ll have a look. Thanks again everyone for the advice. Glen.
I totally get it, we used to send a lot of stuff to Australia and New Zealand but the shipping has gotten crazy and we've seen a big drop off. Just for a quick comparison here is a Model A spindle and 55 ford spindle side by side.
Thanks for that comparison photo… it really shows the difference in length. It looks doable for someone with machining skills and equipment, but I think I’ll hold off on the ’56 Customline brakes and keep an eye out for the ‘40s backing plates and hubs as you suggested. I’ll also continue to investigate other options, including the Mark 3 Zephyr discs… perhaps some will come along at an affordable price. My project will most likely be 4 cylinder, so something from a smaller car might be ideal. I did take the advice offered by @AccurateMike and got the bearing sizes needed. Here they are as a matter of interest… Model A Outer Bearing ID = .750” (19.05 mm) Outer Bearing OD = 1.938” (49.2252 mm) Inner Bearing ID = 1.190” (30.226 mm) Inner Bearing OD = 2.5” (63.5 mm) 1956 Customline Outer Bearing ID = .750” (19.05 mm) Outer Bearing OD = 1.781” (45.237 mm) Inner Bearing ID = 1.250” (31.75 mm) Inner Bearing OD = 2.328” (59.1312 mm) Would Need… Outer Bearing ID = .750” (19.05 mm) Outer Bearing OD = 1.781” (45.237 mm) Inner Bearing ID = 1.190” (30.226 mm) Inner Bearing OD = 2.328” (59.1312 mm) I think I have that right ? Perhaps that info will help someone else wanting to try this. Glen.
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