Does anyone have a pic they could post of a 49-54 Chevy with a CE rear kit and lowering blocks installed? I would like to get a idea of how the car would sit with one of these kits.
I have the CE 2" drop springs with one leaf removed and 3" blocks...about a 7" total drop. With the bump stops cut, I still don't have much travel. 4-link and a notch are planned right after BilletProof...beats chipping any more teeth. I also gotta fix that stance. Bryan
What is the difference between the CE kit and the Walton Fab kit. Both are pretty much the same price, so what is the difference between them in quality, ride, ease of installation, ect. Thanks, Geno
The CE kit comes with an upper shock mount, shocks, and looks like it may be a bit nicer quality, not sure though. I really want to lower the car but don't want to notch and bag it. I would like the 50 coupe I'm doing to like like some kid did it in about 59-60. I scored a 10 bolt 2.73 posi out of a 72 Nova and think that I'd be dumb not to use one of the rear kits with this rear end. I plan on just using dropped uprights/arms up front, maybe cutting a coil if it needs it. I was hoping somebody had a pic of their car with one of these kits in it without a notch or other stuff just to get an idea of how it would sit.
Here's mine w/ the CE kit, but no lowering blocks... just put straight in. I kinda like the rake... but not everyone does. FWIW, the CE springs are wider and mount centered under each frame rail. This limits the amount of space you have to run exhaust pipes between the rear shackles and the fuel tank (or spare tire well). I cut out my spare tire well and centered my fuel tank to give more clearance. Even after all that, the CE kit was some of the best $$$ I have spent on this car. Their customer service is also as excellent as their kit. I have about 20-25K miles on my CE kit. Oh, and to give you an idea of where the axle will sit, lay a 2x4 or long straightedge with each end against the bottom of the frame where the stock leaf springs mount. The top of this line is where your spring perch will sit if you don't use blocks. That's what the CE tech told me to do, and he was dead-on right.
The pic I posted is of my car with just CE springs and blocks, no notch yet. Without the leaf removed, add 1-2". Or, just take Slide's car and imagine it with the size blocks you plan to run. BTW Slide, I like the new look of your car! Bryan
Oh, and I have some of this setup pics from underneath the car, but they're on my home computer. I can upload them if anybody cares. But it won't be till at least Sunday afternoon. Thanks!
very nice, thanks for posting those. 51Chevysled, you said your car had 2" lowered springs with one leaf removed, those would be different than the springs provided with the kit right? or would they be the same if I removed one leaf? Did you just order springs from them or the whole kit? Maybe they would substitute lowered springs with the kit on request? I could easily live with the rear height of the coupe in the first pic it's just about perfect for what I wanted, the second one is just a little higher than I wanted but still looks pretty close to what I had in mind.
Yeah, a little different than when new. I bought mine used through a HAMBer, however, CE told me my springs drop the car about 2" (I called them on some other parts and inquired). The second smallest leaf is removed, IIRC. Some of the companies that sell springs for our cars allow you to specify if you want them to lower the rear...I'm not sure if CE's one of 'em, but you can always check to make sure. The way my memory is sometimes, I recommend it Originally, I put 3" blocks on the stock springs and I'm much lower than that now with 3" blocks and CE springs. Another option you have is to use the Posies springs...they're made to fit in the stock shackles...trust me when I say you'll save a decent amount of time if you don't have to remove those. Probably save some money too. I hope that helps and didn't just confuse things. Bryan
What's wrong with the stance? It looks MEAN! (But then I'm the oddball that likes these cars lower in the front!) The only "options" I know of on CE kits is heavier springs being available for sedan deliveries. I'd give them a call on their tech line, though. They are usually pretty helpful when I call.
Thanks...it's actually growing on me and a couple people have said they like the look too. I do like the raked look for high-boys and other hot rods, but typically I like the tail-dragger look for customs, bombs, etc. It really only sits like that parked when the air's out...I guess that's one good thing about air bags, if you don't like the stance...change it! Bryan
Do the shocks with the Walton kit line back up with the original upper mounts? Or do they need modified since the open axle center line is farther back than the stock torque tube rear? Geno
I added the chassis engineering kit to my 50. Also Helped stiffen up the rear end.(side to side it was swaying alot with the narrow leafs and open driveline) Here are some pics of the leafs with blocks and without. http://50chevy.com/photos/lowering_blocks With 3" block and the CE leafs I need to add a notch and also add clearance for the pumpkin. Stickylifter also did a tech post on installing a notch with his CE leaf springs. When you install the rear leafs and if $$ allows, I would also install a rear sway bar. That seems like it would really help on 49-54 chevy cars
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