Checking in for Feb, rear arm seams welded ground back and painted , drive shaft at the machine shop for shortening and getting splines cut to suit a 6 spline coupler ,chassis all painted and underbody rust protected. I have my back brakes fully rebuilt and the drums skimmed ready to go on to my back axle, I am also half way through building the pacific quick change centre section into my A axle , I need to get gear marking fluid tomorrow to check the pattern on the gear teeth ,new plywood for my seat base too as my missus is busy dissecting an old brown leather sofa to sew into seat covering and door panels -oh and my engine is painted now with black stove paint as are my manifolds.....I`ve been busy !
I am certainly fitting shocks -Goliath Brand from the UK but would a sway bar not hinder the suspension working correctly?
Unfortunately the side drive deal was a bust, but I left with some other goodies! Now time to find some parts to get this water pump pumping!
Lite it off tomorrow. B engine, lightweight pistons, inserted rods, Winfield grind cam, non counterbalanced crank, 22# flywheel, 83cc Donovan head. Then into a Roadster if all is good on the run stand and it will get some more goodies.
Anybody have any tips or links with info on installing/running a Model B distributor on a Model A banger motor? I know people do it, but I haven't been able to find much info on the swap and what is needed.
I would expect the heads made in the ‘70s when the Mod D was made I’ll post pics later as I get parts out J
What I’ve always done is use a Model B front timing cover. Once you’ve got the cover, it’s as easy as timing with the pin like normal.
I spent the last couple of weeks working with my dad to try and finish mums burtz powered sport coupe ready for the queenscliff rod run (a pretty popular run usually held in the first week of feb) but an electrical issue stopped that from happening, so I spent a couple of days getting my town sedan ready for the 180 mile round trip, it was already drivable but needed a few things before it could take on a road trip, I borrowed the 16inch Kelsey's from mums sport coupe, rebuilt the alternator (it was working but didn't charge well enough to run the lights), made the throttle linkage work better, adjusted the brakes etc, did a 50 mile test drive and deemed it ready to go, it made it there no problem and survived multiple hours of cruising over 3 days, most of the way home it was fine but I'm pretty sure I pushed it too hard on a really long up hill section, its now throwing a lot of oil out the breather, but I'm not too bothered it still made it home and is now back to around town duties, this engine was a little bit thrown together and I wasn't expecting it to have as long of a life as it has already had so now I have to build a good engine for it, ill end up using the lionspeed head, single piece valves and guides, re ground b cam, burns intake, 94 carb, header, oil filter kit and fsi distributor out of the current engine in the new one, I have two choices, I have a very good model a short motor that can pretty much just be assembled (only needs new pistons because it has split skirt ones in it and I'd like to use better pistons) or the other option is a counterweighted b engine that has good crank and rod bearings, it has been sleeved undersize but can be bored to stock and I have a set of stock size pistons and it needs the lifter bores machined, the thing is with the b I do have a b trans and most of the stuff to put it in my a, but doing the changeover means the car will be apart longer (the car has had a b engine in it before) whereas the a can just bolt in to replace the current a engine which would you choose and why? Here's some pics from the weekend View attachment 5643622 View attachment 5643621 View attachment 5643620 View attachment 5643623
Personally I would go ahead and do the B motor. More HP and oiling improvements over an A motor. You can swap the B motor into the A on the A trans if you wanted to but the upgrade with the B trans means synchro 2 and 3 and better gear ratios. Id go ahead and do it up man and make a better all around driving experience and have some fun. You have a good A motor and a good B core it sounds like. The B motor will be more work, the A will be faster turn around, counterbalanced B motor is smoother also so alot of things to consider. I like the extra 10 hp of the B motor and pressurized oiling somewhat, better in the hills thats for sure.
It is Friday! Got the 2a started. No brakes. Forgot how much fun it is to drive something with no brakes into the garage! In fine HAMB fashion, bit of modifications going on...so, pre-73 wagoneer drums (11") bolt to the early front axles. So, gone with the 9" and onto more! Working on getting the Morton and Brett out to 'Zoniland, plan is May. Time marches on. I'll post some sexy Willy's speed later.
Was mulling the same, damn, to bad Dan McEachern isn't on here, he'd probably have the bits to make that go. One day I'll get a set of straight cut fine tooth set of bronze gears. Sadly, not many people want those. His work is always nice to have. what part of the 510 are you in Dan?
How can you tell it’s for a T? Dan does fantastic work, we have some of his gears in a warmed up A block and love em!
Could there be more than one Dan in Oakland…??? Nah! Pretty sure this one knows what he’s talkin bout
Spent a little time with Dan Price the other day. I bought a running Model B engine w/ what I was told was a Brumfield head. I also picked up a lightened flywheel while I was there. I learned quite a bit from Dan and got to see his overwhelming collection of Banger parts and equipment. Overall great day. The engine will replace the one in my truck. I’ll be able to tear the existing engine down and use the one I bought from Dan.
Head on the motor in the pictures looks like a police head as shown below Oil pan looks like model B, so maybe a model B with a police head? I understand the brumfield head had the letter B F cast on the top as shown below
Thanks for clarifying the head. I assume Dan misspoke describing the engine. It is a Model B engine. It’s for my Model B
No Roto-Faze, no intake, no carb…The plan is to have a good solid runner. The engine in my truck has a nasty vibration and oily spark plugs. My guess is it has a flywheel/clutch/pressure plate related problem and a ring problem at the least. I’ll take it apart and see what I got. In the meantime I have a replacement.
Donovan head engine lit right off...has 110# compression at 7000' elevation. Going to get it in a car soon
The Jalopy Journal
