Now correct me if I'm wrong. The set up is aftermarket frame with 2in kickup in the rear, 4 in drop axle in the front, a ford 8.8 in the rear, on 15in wheels and tires to a 28" od. That would put center of axle at about 14". Also puts the frame ride height at about 14". Would that not be riding on the rear axle? To lift it would the best/only way be to go with a original straight axle?
Impossible to say without knowing more info related to the suspension and crossmember situation. Pics would help as well.
I am unable to post pics as i am currently overseas. That being said The suspension os what i am currently trying to figure out. The frame is flat and so is the crossmember. As i stated the current ride height of the frame is 14". So plus 2" for the kick up sets the botom of the crossmember at 16". Utilizing the same wheel and tire as the front and a ford 8.8 differential. The ford 8.8 sitting at 14" center axle and havine an outside diameter of 3.25". Would only give me clearance of .375" So again i ask is the only way of lifting the front end getting a original straight axle? That would lift the front 4" and give me 4" of travel in thr rear.
This becoming word salad. The finished hgt is 14" at the main rail, can I ***ume springs? The axle center is 14". Unless the axle itself is 28" high then what's the issue? I'd guess the axle all in is probably what, 10" maybe 11"? If what you're eluding to is will the frame ride the axle, no. Springs. What's the scrub line? Rear springs. Travel. Front travel. Seems like this is philosophical and missing logistic info.
The radius of a 28" tyre is 14 inches. I get that. But that's all I get. I have no idea how you have come up with a ride height of 14" or where you are measuring that. Depending on the suspension system and springs, you can make the rear frame to axle clearance anthing you want, from zero to 3 feet (I'm exaggerating, but you need suspension and that has not been mentioned.) What is currently connecting the axles to the frame?
I just found this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/frame-builders-how-to-achieve-stock-ride-height.1194113/
I kinda see what the OP is asking/stating but have never had a straight frame A, so won’t comment on that. But can comment on the “take the dropped axle out and put original axle in front” or similar, that won’t change anything in the rear (imo) because the rear of the frame will just pivot over, but position relative to the rear axle won’t change, least in my mind.
Not trying to spend anyone's money, but..buy a P&J complete ch***is, put your A Model body on it, 16" wheels and Diamondback Auburn white walls. That should achieve what you want going by what I can make out of this and your other threads.
I don't believe you would have to change out your front axil, the choice of the front spring will affect your ride hight and of course the weight of the engine. For example: stock spring, model t spring, reverse eye spring, after market spring, etc. Same thing for the rear. Phil
It's more of a need to raise back of frame. Mine had a 2 inch kickup now it has a 6 inch. Allows the frame to be lower but not bottom out on rear end.
Whatever steps you took to lower the front, you need to do the same amount in the rear. A 4-inch drop Model A axle does not lower the front 4-inches. The original axle had 1-inch of drop. A 4-inch drop Model A axle has been dropped 3-inches, for a total drop of 4-inches, so your axle takes it down 3-inches. A stock Model A front crossmember has a dip of 2-1/2-inches. If you have a flat one, you have added 2-1/2-inches of drop to the front, for a total of 5-1/2-inches, so far (***uming a stock front spring, and similar to stock weight everything else). If you have a lowering spring, you need to add in that drop, too (again ***uming a stock front spring, and similar to stock weight everything else). Your rear frame step will need to match what happened up front. If you have a flat top front crossmember, the rear step will need to be 5-1/2-inches. If you do not have a flat front crossmember, then the front went down 3-inches, and the rear went down 2-inches, which is the correct hot rod rake. Now, if you have a flat rear crossmember, everything is out the window in the back, and it will be very difficult for anyone here to help you. Model A original tires were 30 to 30-3/4-inches tall, depending on the generation. Let's call it 30-3/4-inches (1928-1929). By putting on your wheels and tires alone, that drops the ch***is by 1-3/8". If memory serves, the top of the frame on the year with that tire size was 20-1/2-inches. That is where the ch***is started. Subtract any or all of the numbers here from that.
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