Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Balance bar brakes questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Busho, Feb 8, 2023.

  1. Busho
    Joined: Jan 2, 2014
    Posts: 10

    Busho
    Member

    I’m working on my 56 fairlane that has been modified in the past. I’m currently switching to a manual transmission and want to have a hydraulic clutch. The current brake master setup I believe is out of a mustang and the pedal ***embly is butchered. I’ve been looking at a wilwood brake and clutch balance bar setup that’d have the three master cylinders side by side. I have four wheel drum brakes that have always performed excellent, just wondering if anyone would have input on master cylinder sizes. Wheel cylinders are 1.125” up front and 7/8” in the rear
     
  2. ELpolacko
    Joined: Jun 10, 2001
    Posts: 4,682

    ELpolacko
    Member

    Set up properly, some of the best brake feel you will ever experience.

    Unless you are running some incredibly large calipers on the front, your 1.125" cylinder is likely too large. 15/16 or 7/8 is adequate in most cases. 1" if you are running something like a larger car or truck caliper on the front.
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Having two master cylinders servicing two circuits, one each for front and rear is just a deconstructed version of a tandem master cylinder.

    If these are the stock drums, use master cylinders that have the same bore as the original master cylinder.
     
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Records seem to indicate that was a 1-inch bore master cylinder.
     
  5. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,393

    sunbeam
    Member

    1.125 front wheel and 7/8 rear cylinders on a car stock, wagons are 15/16 is the Mustang a dual unit If so why do you need 3 master cylinders
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It is just the way that pedal ***embly is built. It is a race pedal ***embly.

    The third one is for the clutch.

    The other two are separate front and rear circuits. They have a balance-bar between them, which can be adjusted for brake bias in the pits, or if the sanctioning body rules allow, during the race, as fuel is consumed, or as track conditions change.

    It is not "needed" in a street car, but it is a convenient all-in-one package.

    Other good ones are ones like these:

    [​IMG]
    https://kugelkomponents.com/product...-clutch-with-1-bore-cast-iron-m-c-clutch-m-c/
     
  7. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,393

    sunbeam
    Member

    He has what sounds like a stock system except for the master So there should not be a brake bias issue agree the unit pictured is the way to go. If he does not want to add a clutch unit and leave the brake as is.
     
  8. Busho
    Joined: Jan 2, 2014
    Posts: 10

    Busho
    Member

    I probably didn’t explain well enough. I’ve been doing upgrades and repairs as funds allow. I really like the idea of the balance bar brakes as it’s one of the setups that seems like it’ll fit well in the amount of room I have, get me the clutch pedal that I’ll need and keep things fairly simple when I upgrade to disks at a later date. I’ll be getting rid of the booster for the pair of masters. My main concern is hard pedal. From what I’ve read most guys will drop a bore size on master for more pressure as long as volume allows but most info is for disks, not much about the setup with drums.
     
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Then 7/8".
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.