I have the offset bracket if I need it . I've been told that I may have to use 97s instead of Holly 94s; I have both options.
I went out out my son's garage today to visit my flathead engine for awhile. It's going to be interesting to get inside this and find out just what's there. It already has adjustable lifters which is nice and it looks like it has aftermarket valve springs. It has a duel point distributor. These are the numbers cast onto the back bellhousing mount. It looks like S 884. Can anyone tell me what this means ?
Thanks for sharing your story! Sorry about your wife. I worked in Traverse City all my life and still live in the area. Following your story!
Madison In. has a lot of car guys. A guy named Jack who lives there has a few nice Ford 427 cars and parts.
I was advised to look on the back passenger side of the intake manifold surface. Here's what I see ? Doesn't look anything what I was told would be there ? I've got a square with a 77 in it and a " R ". Closer view. Here is the double sprocket on the crank. This is why I think there may have been a blower on it at one time.
I had made brass air cleaners for the four carburetors that are on the Hemi engine. When I put the Hemi up for sale, I bought four chrome air cleaners to put on the carbs and kept my custom made brass ones. This is what one of the brass air cleaners looked like on a carb. I have 4 brass air cleaners and only 2 carbs so I'm going to make a pair of custom " T " shape air cleaners. These are the parts that I'm going to use to make the air cleaners for the flathead. The aluminum tube will be cut in half to form the top cross tube of the " T " for each air cleaner. The two aluminum tubes will then be machined out so that a brass air cleaner will fit on each end of the tube. The two round chunks of aluminum are the centers that I cut out of the blocks of aluminum that were used to make the rear wheel adapters for a tractor that I just finished. These will be the center down tube for each air cleaner. First the center has to be cut out of each of the round blocks. Here is one with the center cut out of it to form a thick aluminum ring. The ring is chucked up in the lathe and the center is machined out to the inside diameter of the top opening of the carb. Then a counter bore is machined out to the outside diameter of the carb. Checking to make sure that the Stromburg 97 carb fits nicely. The ring is then gripped on the inside diameter and the outside is turned down. Next, I chucked a top tube up in the lathe and started turning down the outside. This is cut down until the base of the brass air cleaner fits onto it. Both ends are turned down and the steel brackets are fastened onto each end. These have a threaded hole in the center for the top of the brass air cleaners to screw into. The bottom of the steel brackets are fastened on with counter sunk screws. The screws holding the other end stick up above the machined surface. They fit into the milled notch on the inside of the brass air cleaner so the it can't rotate. A hole saw is used in the drill press to rough out the hole in the top tube. Then the hole is finished machined on the mill. The two bottom tubes are clamped together and a hole is cut into the center between them. This forms a " U " shaped cut on the ends of both of the tubes that matches the inside diameter of the top tube. The bottom tubes are fit into the center hole in the top tubes and welded on the inside. Here are the finished air cleaners for the two carbs on the flathead engine.
My intake manifold has the carburetors spread wide apart so both carbs are sitting over the intake ports on the engine. This is a good design for a high performance engine but it isn't so good for a street driven car. With this carb placement, both carbs have to be run together at all times and they both need to be synchronized with each other so one isn't running richer then the other one. I want to be able to run mostly on just one primary carb with the other one kicking in when the engine is running at higher RPMs, like a 4-barral carb operates. In order to do that, I need to make a plenum chamber that both carbs would dump into so the gas and air are mixed evenly before it goes on into the main intake manifold. There are several intake manifolds on the market that are designed this way but because I'm working with what I have, I have to build my own. I have a piece of 1x4 rectangle aluminum tube that I'm going to use for the plenum chamber. I've machined down a block of aluminum so it will fit snugly inside the rectangle for the end cap. Both end caps are fit in place and the holes are drilled for bolting this onto the top of the intake manifold. The plenum chamber is turned over and an old carburetor base is bolted onto one end. This is used as a jig for drilling out the two port holes in each end. Here's what it looks like with the port holes drilled and the end caps removed. Using a ball nose end mill, I'm roughing out the port hole area in one of the end caps. This is smoothed down more with a Dremel tool to form a radiused surface at the end of the plenum chamber. Here's how it looks inside with the end cap fit back in place. This gives a rounded surface that helps to direct the air - fuel mixture down into the port holes rather than just have a flat squared off surface at the ends. This is the end cap for the other end. The plenum chamber with both end caps on. This plenum chamber will be bolted back onto the manifold later and the end caps will be welded on. Now I can place the two carburetors closer together when I mount them on top of the plenum chamber and hook them up with progressive linkage.
I have an old Almquist intake manifold like this for mounting two carbs on a single carb intake. It's small enough that I was able to put it up on my small mill in my train room to mill the bottom off. The plenum chamber is to wide to fit on my small mill so it had to be set up on the big mill out in the un-heated garage to cut a hole in the center of it. The Almquist manifold fits snugly into the hole. It's going to be to cold to work out in the garage for awhile but at least I was able to get this much done so far.
Look at what I got today. .... Rebuilt original Ford Holley 94 carbs set up for dual carb intake. These are from Wolf Enterprises in San Antonio, Florida.
The collection of parts for this project is getting bigger. This is the progressive linkage for my two carbs. This linkage will allow the engine to run of one carb most of the of the time. The other carb will start to open up at 65 percent throttle and both carbs will be open 100 percent at full throttle.
Had some warm weather so I was able to get a little more done on the intake manifold. This is actually my second try On the first plenum box, I had drilled the two 1-13/64 dia. fuel port holes in each end. When I went to weld the end caps on, there wasn't enough material between the fuel port holes and the end caps to maintain a good weld. So I got another piece of 1x4 inch aluminum tube to make a new plenum chamber. Again, a hole is milled into the top of the plenum so the duel carb manifold fits into it. The open ends of the bottom of the duel carb manifold are filled in with pieces of aluminum. This re-forms a center outlet on the manifold. I used pieces of the aluminum running board to do this so the inside has the ribs in it to help direct the air flow. This manifold is then welded in place on the inside of the plenum. The plenum is then bolted onto the flathead intake and I've started welding the two end caps on, up to where the bolts are. The bolts are removed one at a time and that area is finish welded. The plenum is removed and turned over to finish welding along the underside of it. The welding on the left end cap is completed and I'm getting ready to do the last weld on the right end cap. I use the torch to heat up the end cap each time to make it easier to weld the 1 inch thick cap to the 1/8 thickness of the plenum tube. These welds will be smoothed down flat and once that is done, then I can re-drill the two large fuel port holes on each end.
For your intake, what is the hole just before the letters "pro" for? I have an intake that also has a hole there.
I machined out a plate to fill the hole in the bottom and it has the ribs on it to help with air flow. The welds are smoothed down and the two fuel port holes are drilled into each end. Then I polished the plenum chamber and duel carb manifold. The filler plate for the bottom is fastened to another aluminum plate that is 3/8 inch wider all the way around. This is then fit onto the bottom and fastened down with #2-56 stainless screws. RTV sealant is used for the gasket and the screws are coated with Lock tight. Once the RTV has dried, I'll trim off the excess. How it will look with the carbs and air cleaners on.
Very astute, Ray! The upright style of the intake will compliment the height of the unchopped 'T' perfectly! LOVE the swingaway steering, I fitted one out of a '62 Ford fullsize car into my '63-1/2 Ford fastback. The lady that had the '62 Ford had NO idea it had a swingaway steering, as the shift grommet was so worn the pawl never would release to move the column! She had bought the Ford 'second-hand', as she called it. That is a great fit in the T Coupe.
Wow Ray, I really admire your skills, and have been following this thread since the start. I have wondered about the ribs in some of my intake manifolds, I'll have to take a good long look at them now, since I was thinking of filling them to eliminate any depressions the manifolds.
The model-T has power rack & pinion steering on it. When I started building this car, I wanted to put rack & pinion steering on it and this unit is what I had up on the shelf at the time. I figured being a powered unit wouldn't hurt any with the Hemi engine and transmission weighing around 900 pounds. However, with the flathead only weighing a little over half that, I certainly don't need power steering anymore. The steering unit works easily and smoothly by itself without having it hooked up to a power steering pump. The fluid just flows freely thru it as the steering wheel is rotated so I can still use it. I need to figure out a way to add fluid to it to keep it full and still let the fluid flow freely and then keep it sealed so it doesn't leak. A long time ago, I had picked up a hose reel at a swap meet. It turned out to be an industrial water hose reel for mounting over a sink. This chrome pipe was hooked up to it. Taking it apart, it seams to be some sort of spring loaded valve. There is a brass screw-on piece under the chrome cap that has a 1/2 inch diameter in the base. I'm going to use this chrome piece for the steering fluid reservoir. I tapped the inside of the brass piece and screwed a brass pipe plug into it to make it a sealed cap. The chrome cap fits onto the top of this to cover it. The two steel lines from the steering unit are shortened and re-shaped to fit onto this reservoir. With it fastened back onto the steering unit, this now allows fluid to be added. Once the steering wheel is rotated back and forth enough to work the air out, the brass cap is then screwed on to seal the system. And the chrome cap is put back on. I'm sure there will be some who wonder just what the heck it is. With it being chrome, it looks like it belongs there.
I can’t help but think that your lovely wife will be right there with you. My sincere condolences for your loss.
The fuel block is put together. This is mounted up on the firewall. The original fuel line, from when the Hemi was in the car, comes from the electric fuel pump at the back and runs up along the outside of the frame. Then it goes thru the frame and comes out here on the inside of the frame. A 90 degree fitting is threaded into this with the new fuel line running back towards the firewall. This feed line goes up and into the right side of the fuel block. The return line comes out the other side and goes down on the inside of the frame. Then it crosses under the frame and goes back into the tank. I'm using a motor driven electric fuel pump so the fuel is circulating all the time.
The temperature jumped up to 59 degrees today so I was able to work out in the garage for awhile. The front brakes are off a 1955 Chevy. I made up aluminum adapters to fit the backing plates to the Ford spindles. The new wheel cylinders are bolted onto the backing plates. Then the new brake shoes are mounted in place. And the brake drums are put back on. I mounted the 55 Chevy brake drums to the back of the ford wheel hubs. These have been re-drilled to the lug bolt pattern for the mid 50's Cadillac wire wheels. Attaching the brake lines finishes the installation of the front brakes. The tail light housings have been sand blasted and primed. Once the primer had dried, they were painted. I also removed the steering column so it can be cleaned up and painted.
Finished up assembling the brake light and turn signal assembly. This was an accessory light that was available back in the teens and early 1920's. This is designed so that the wires are pushed into a hole in the top of the back of each socket housing. There apparently wasn't any way to seal the hole where that the wire went in. I've used the rubber distributor caps and pushed them onto the ends of the socket housings to seal the wire holes. Then I put RTV sealant in the other end of the caps to seal around the wires. The center brake light will be used as the 3ed brake light. Here's how it looks with brake and turn signal lights lit up. I'm using super bright LED bulbs in this.
The weather is worming up now. It got up to 55 degrees today and we should be in the high 60's by the weekend so I can start spending more time out in the garage. Today I cleaned up and painted the steering column and the center spokes on the steering wheel. The back panel of the trunk is not welded in place yet. So I removed it to make it easier to mount the tail lights. The inside has been treated with Oxysolve to treat the surface rust. I'll let this dry over night and then prime and paint it. The trunk floor steps down in the very back of it. I have been thinking of adding some weight to the back of the car to help balance it out a little more. This would help with traction and also make it ride a little smoother. I have 12 of these steel bars that weigh 9.15 pounds each. I can set two rows of these bars in the lower area. With two rows of six bars, it would add close to 110 pounds to the back end. I have to put in a raised floor in this area so there is room for the mounting bolts for the turn signal bar and the wiring. I can build a cage to block the steel bars in place and put the raised floor over top of them.
The Jalopy Journal
