1952-59 Ford Questions on 302 swap

Hey guys,

I've read through the FAQ a few times and would like to verify a couple things as I'm slowly gathering parts for my 302 aod swap.

1. Driveshaft- if I'm using butches abf mounts, 302 and aod, is there a driveshaft that's a bolt in? Or something close that a shop can cut down? I still have the factory rear end in it.

2. What combination of v belt pulleys, water pump, and timing cover will allow use of a mechanical fan? My plan is to make the engine look like the swap was done in the 60s with a black and gold 289.

3. For the folks that have swapped a 302 in, how does a basic build 302 move it along? I'm just looking to cruise it so I'm thinking anything is better than a stock 215. I have an explorer hyd roller engine, gt40p heads, options of either the explorer cam, an f303 cam, or a trick flow stage 1 cam all on the shelf. Then I have an edelbrock performer intake, a duraspark 2 distributor that I'll have recurved and top it off with a small venturi 4100 I have. Maybe while I have the heads off doing a valve job and springs I'll go back with thin headgaskets just to help out compression a touch more.


I need to source an auto column and pedals, I'm tracking on the local shift rod and TV cable. Are there any other pitfalls or snags that I need to know about?

 

#2 - If you want to use a mechanical fan you will have to run the short snout water pump. Pretty sure there is something in the FAQ about which one. If your car originally came with the 215 then you are starting off in a better place as the radiator is already moved forward and you have the correct front splash apron.

#3 - My 302 has stock '87 heads, an intake from '86 (no EFI), an E303 cam, and the Duraspark II distributor. I'm running a 9" rear with .350 gears and it moves it along just fine for a mild custom. I run about 70-75 MPH on the interstate without any issues.

 

#3 - My 302 has stock '87 heads, an intake from '86 (no EFI), an E303 cam, and the Duraspark II distributor. I'm running a 9" rear with .350 gears and it moves it along just fine for a mild custom. I run about 70-75 MPH on the interstate without any issues.[/QUOTE]


What trans and tire size are you running? I'm pretty stoked to get this going.

 

#1. I had a new driveshaft made locally, cost about $300.
#2. My engine is a 331 stroker from Blueprint with an AOD. I have a 7 blade clutch fan and using the 69 Mustang radiator from the FAQ;s with matching shroud (slightly modified to fit). It's mounted to front side of rad support with some homemade spacers. Had to cut the front splash panel for radiator and A/C condenser clearance. (there are pics in the FAQ's similar to what I did). As the others said, short water pump, etc.
#3. The 331 dyno sheet said it was about 330hp IIRC. Not a race car but moves along real nice with 3:73 gears.
Your 302 should do just fine.
I'm using a Lokar shifter with adjustable rod linkage.
Mine was originally a manual, I just removed the clutch pedal and got a brake pedal pad for an automatic. It's the wider pedal and bolts in place of the small manual brake pedal pad. I just used washers to take up the space left by the clutch pedal arm. Works perfectly.

On a side note, my engine temp climbs on a warm day in traffic with the small Mustang radiator. I fabricated a piece to close the gap between top of shroud and radiator to hopefully cause more air drawn thru the radiator. Waiting for summer to see if that helps.

 

What trans and tire size are you running? I'm pretty stoked to get this going.[/QUOTE]
Sorry about that. I started to add that and then work got in the way. I'm using the AOD out of the same '87 Mustang and the tires are 205/75r15 Diamondback II

 

For the drive shaft see this: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/page-3, Post #74 You might consider NOT using the GT40p's because the headers used with this swap won't fit unless you spend more bucks for these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Bloc...5&toolid=10001&customid=ldxlv76lcm0025g100004 See this in the Sticky https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ Post # 5.

 

Thanks Jeff, I've been reading through the water pump section, looks like I lucked out with starting with a 6 cylinder car.

Head wise I go back and forth. I know header fitment is limited but the bump in compression would be nice on a budget. I do have a truck engine with a hyd roller cam and e7 heads and I guess anything is better than the 215.

 

Those E7's are not all that bad you should check out this guys Videos ! He is the SBF Guru.

 

Maybe they aren't as bad as I thought. A little clean up at home, mill them, good valve job and measure for quench and they should fit the bill for me.

I'm re reading all the water pump info again as I'd really like to run v belt and mechanical fan for the vintage look. Since I have a 6 cylinder car it does seem more reasonable to do.

 

Sorry about that. I started to add that and then work got in the way. I'm using the AOD out of the same '87 Mustang and the tires are 205/75r15 Diamondback II[/QUOTE]


Dos Cinco, last question are you running a factory aod converter with that combination?

 

Yes.

 

Dos Cinco, last question are you running a factory aod converter with that combination?[/QUOTE] Since you are wanting to run the stock rear end which should have 3:90 gears the AOD will shift too quick, the Hi-Rev kit included in this will correct that issue https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-aod-hp

 

Here are some AOD videos you should watch. And the Hi-Rev kit I mentioned.

 

Thanks jeffb2, I'll be messaging you when I'm piecing the water pump setup for the swap once I make up my mind on vbelt verse serpentine.

 

Since you are wanting to run the stock rear end which should have 3:90 gears the AOD will shift too quick, the Hi-Rev kit included in this will correct that issue https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-aod-hp[/QUOTE]
I ran an AOD in my 53F100 with a 3.92 rear axle and did not find the shifts points problematic.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread but seems like a great place to ask a question. I bought my AOD thru Blueprint with the engine, trans came from TCI. Both sat a few years till I got the project running. I've got about 1000 miles on it now and the trans has never shifted to 2nd gear. It goes from 1st to 3rd no matter how I drive it. All shifts normally otherwise. Not sure but I think it's supposed to be their "Street Fighter" trans.
Do you think this Transgo kit will fix my problem or are there other issues?
I've never worked on a transmission but I've watched the video and pretty sure I'm just smart enough to do that with the instructions and video, LOL!
Again sorry to hijack and Thanks for any advice!
Darren

 

Probably should contact the Tech people at TCI first before you make any changes, let us know what they tell you.

 

I did contact them, the warranty was for 1 year and I had it about 3 years before firing it up. They don't even use AOD's anymore because of problems. They use GM 700R4 with an adapter for Ford engines.

 

Have you checked the pressure yourself. Easy to do. What throttle are you using?

 

Yes we adjusted the tv cable when first started up per the instructions. Off the top of my head I think it was 35psi with the spacer on the cable. It's a Holley carb, Lokar throttle cable.
Checked pressure again some time later when I realized it was skipping 2nd gear. A friend of mine who used to work in a transmission shop helped me adjust the tv cable and pressure. He said maybe loosen and retorque the valve body bolts but I haven't tried that yet.

 

Did the pressure drop to zero at idle. I had to add an additional spring to mine with the Lokar cable to get it to zero.

 

Early AOD's if left sitting had a habit of the governor sticking maybe this can help. http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/resources/GOVERNOR ***EMBLY.pdf This guy does AODs only and has for years. http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html Here is an AOD only forum. https://www.tccoa.com/forums/aod-transmissions.956/

 

I also had to add another spring to the transmission end to pull it back.

 

I'll check that out, Thanks!

 

That was common with the older version of Lokar's kick down cable kit, I wonder if they upgraded the spring in newer versions, the complaints seem to have gone down. My linkage seems to be better after adding the cable corrector, there are two versions one for Holleys and one for Edelbrock & AFB Carbs.

 

These two Videos may be of help. And here This shows the Sonnax part above installed.

 

I called Lokar tech. before installing the TV cable on the AOD. The tech said no need for the cable corrector because there are 2 positions on the TV arm, one for Holley and one for EBrock. So i installed without the arm on a holley carb. About 3000 miles and everything seems fine. I monitor the trans fluid quite often and no sign of slipping clutches. SO i wonder if the cable corrector is really needed. So whats the thoughts guys, Yes or NO???

 

On my two AOD's cable corrector has never been needed.

 

A GM 200r with adapter kit is lighter and smaller if anyone is looking for not using the AOD. They lived behind every GM car at some point even Buick turbo grand sports and are well do***ented.

 

200R4’s have become unobtainable around here.