I had a four inch drop axle installed on my 1941 Chevy truck. Everything seemed to be fine. But during test drive I found out the pitman arm is right on top of leaf spring. Does any one know how to fix this problem without losing the stance or distance of drop. Me and my Dad are new to this type of work and we would really appreciate some help. Thanks.
It will need to be heated and bent in two places, with a torch. Heat it by the sector shaft and bend it away from the spring. Heat it by the drag link end and bend it so that that eyelet is parallel with the other end. It should look kinda like this when done: Do the heating and bending in a vise, not on the truck! Do not quench. Allow it to air cool, slowly.
You'd get many more responses if you indicate where you're located. Gimpy has stated the correct way to reshape your pitman arm, just don't overheat it and as he said DO NOT QUENCE
Also, while this is a dropped axle, I do recommend never dropping it. I dropped a dropped Model A axle once, and it landed just past the edge of the steel toe of my Red Wings. It broke two bones in my foot, and was stupefyingly painful. I know that people tell you not to knock things unless you have tried them. You can take my word on this one.
I dropped an axle about 3 feet the other day. I got my toes out of the way though. There is a learning curve to overcome. to avoid bump steer there needs to be some adjustment to the pitman arm. Drag link angle is just as important on a parallel leaf suspension as it is on a buggy sprung car. I do not doubt that someone has a graphic to show it. I do not. Maybe they will post something.
From the picture on one of his other threads: He does have modified steering components on it. I am hoping that whomever sold him the axle covered the need for modified steering components, hence the TRE and jam nut equipped drag link.
I'm just having trouble understanding how the pitman and spring got closer together, that distance should stay the same with or without a drop axle. In that picture they look free and clear of each other.
The head of the TRE might overlap the spring slightly. I agree, it is hard to tell, and the OP has not returned to answer questions.
The picture shows the pitman arm above and not on leaf spring because the installer used a floor jack to raise it up. When the truck is off the jack the arm sits on top of leaf. The drop axle and all components are from Sid's Nostalgia in Oklahoma. My installer called today and said he solved the problem ,so,I'll be there first thing tomorrow to see if work is done correctly. Also ,thanks for your input.
Damn,I did not see your response until this evening. I really appreciate your help on this. My installer called earlier and said he solved the problem. I hope he did it correctly. If not or if I'm not happy with what I see I will give your idea a shot. I remember seeing a pitman arm on an old Chevy that looked exactly like the picture you sent me. Appreciate your help,Thanks.
I'm located in Placentia,Calif. Orange County. I would appreciate any feedback. I'm sure I'll have more questions once my truck is home from the shop. End of Feb. is target. It once was a target date of last week of Dec. But we all know in how that goes I'm out here in Placentia,Calif Orange County. My truck should be home by end of Feb. Target date was end of Dec. But we all know how that goes.
I'm not that qualified when it comes to a drop axle suspension. Can you explain to me why there should be space between pitman arm and leaf spring. Also can you define TRE for me? I think it's something to do with tie rod ends, correct?. The drop axle and all required components came from Sid's Nostalgia in Oklahoma...Great reputation by the way. Ok would appreciate any input on how a drop axle suspension works and any installment info from yourself or any other members. Thank You.
TRE is just short for tie rod end. It saves on typing. The tie rod end that is on the pitman arm, on the steering box appeared to be in the path of being hit by the leaf spring if you hit a big bump. That could spin the steering wheel in your hands, and, if you have your thumbs wrapped around it, break both of them. It needs to be away from the spring enough, to she side, that it won't happen. Don't ask me just how much it hurts to drive to the hospital with broken thumbs. I'd rather not talk about it.
Gimpy's Hot Rods,good to meet you . I appreciate your input. Yeah,the installer corrected the problem,they fabricated a beautiful,sturdy pitman arm and as you said it is off to one side of leafs...to the left of leafs. I'm waiting on exhaust and shifter installation. Soon thereafter ,a test drive and if all goes well she'll be comin' home. Thanks for your time.
Always happy to help, especially when it is to correct a potential safety issue! Make sure you post pictures of it when you get it home!
Here's a few photos of mine and my Dad's 41' Chevy truck. We brought her home last week but I've got to take her back for a couple of issues. The builder wasn't as thorough or honest as he claimed to be. The truck looks really nice:
Gimpys, nothing beats hands on experience. Once I drove a stickshift to the hospital with a broken right hand pinky metacarpus. At one point I had to stop on the side of the road to puke because every single gear change was so painful, It was city driving so I had to shift gears a lot during the 30mn drive.
Driving non power steering equipment on rough surface ,will make one learn to drive thumbs up very fast . Tractor and a Deuce and 1/2 , I learned fast what it meant also . Try to kick start the high compression Harley , have her light 1/2 way trough the stroke , and then have to drive 200 miles to a safe resting place . This makes one say untold amount of potty words and define the true meaning of blown out knee . Thanks Gimb , for the safety tips , I always try to explain safety as best as I can also . If you don’t have enough time to do it safely the 1st Time ,one may not have the time or ability to do it over the 2nd time safely . I did notice in the image of the pitman arm and front spring on the truck , looks to me as if there is no cotter pin in the castle nut on the TRE of the draglink . Tough to see clearly for me .
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