Projects Color match single stage and Base coat clear coat

I,m about to paint my engine bay (62 plymouth color Luminous Cordovan) . I am planning to paint it with single stage paint and the door jambs also. As for the body panel, I am not sure if I will be using single stage or Base coat Clear coat. How much of a color difference would there be, If I use single stage in some places/ and base coat clear coat on the body panels ? I'm sure by now you know I'm not a painter. Last time I painted any thing was 30 years ago ( Centari Acrylic Emanel)

 

I feel like you're going to want to do it all with the same type of paint. In the engine compartment it might not make a ton of difference, but then do you paint the underside of the hood with one paint and the top with another? What about door jambs and in the trunk? Seems like you're not really saving anything by mixing the two.

Also, and this is just a personal opinion, but base/clear looks too modern on a lot of the applications I see it used on. Not sure what specific look/style you're going for with this Plymouth, but regular single stage enamel paint is easy to use, easy to blend in later, buffs out real nice, and looks period-appropriate. If you were doing some wild panel painting/metalflake job, obviously you'd need clear. But if you want this car to look like it's wearing it's original paint when you're done, just buy a couple gallons of enamel and do everything with the same paint. It'll match up better and is cheaper.

 

If I do use Single stage urathane paint, Luminous Cordovan ( with is metallic) and I get orange peel on the surface. Can it be wet sanded ? If read that metallic single stage metallic paint can not be wet sanded.

 

You cant wet sand single stage metalic. The exposed metalic particles oxidise.

 

Unless it’s a correct resto, I’d p*** on single stage metallic.
Can’t do much with it once sprayed.
The depth is not the same as base/clear either.
There’s a reason base/clear was created. To spray metallics.
I’ve shot the same paint metallic silver paint code in single stage and base/clear. The difference was huge.

 

I get what you are saying. But before BCCC , how did guyss/body shops deal with orange peel on all the car with metallic...I'm just asking . Metallic paints were around since the early 60's..maybe before on production vehicles.

 

The painter was very good and/or the customer didn’t know the difference

 

A lot had to do with the type of paint. Lots of those vehicles were sprayed in lacquer. It's pretty darn hard to orange peel or run lacquer. Its so thin and dries so quickly it just sprays flat.

 

Thanks for the input guys...still wish I knew what type of paint to use (single stage /BCCC). But thank you all.

 

If it's a metallic you need to use BC/CC unless you are confident you will not make any mistakes. As Anthony mentioned you will be hard pressed to get a match between the two.

 

Back in the day many all overs were "Single Stage" both Metallic and None Metallic. Choosing the correct Gun -Air Cap Fluid Needle and Tip was key along with the correct Reducer for the Temperature of your spray booth. A painter I worked for as a helper had an "All Over " gun. Orange Peal was minimal to none, but he had years of experience. We shot Akyd Enamels as well as Acrylic Enamel with out Hardeners before "Hardeners" (Isocynates) ) came along. With the "ISO Hardeners" they were even slicker and less "orange peel"

 

Base/clear is a whole lot more forgiving.

Get a run in the base, wait an hour and sand it out, then I like to apply another coat over it. Get a run in the clear? Or orange peel? I like to wait a couple days and sand and buff it out, done.

Run or orange peel in enamel? Your waiting quite some time before you can wet sand and buff. Also depends on length of time whether you use harder.

And you can do some neat things with clear, add metallics, pearls etc to the first couple coats of the clear.

.

 

Pick up a cheap purple harbor freight gun and practice with it. If you were closer I’d give ya some base coat to play with.
I’ve got friends at paint stores and get the returned or mixing mistakes for free.
since you said it’s been a while, the newer hvlp and other epa compliant guns (cup on top) shoot different that the ole #7 binks or other siphon (cup on bottom) guns.
You will overlap more. Like 75% or more. Hold the gun a little closer and move a little faster.
My local store has some economical (compared to other clears) that cost around $75 a gallon to shoot.
You might want to practice with some. Quart kits are available.
But do some test panels.

 

I've wetsanded and buffed single stage metallic paints. At least enough to knock off dirt knobs and bug trails and stuff. I never had a problem with it. I suppose you can't cut into it too deep, but if you are just leveling off the surface it seems to be fine.

 

My color choice has taken me a long long long time, and it is an orgnial 1962 Metallic. And yes I will be buying a HF Purple gun. I've be watch videos about BCCC, seem like everything needs to be done within certain lengths of time (first coat/secord etc.) a bit overwhelming.
Once I get pasted the basecoat phase. Would there be any problen if I were to wait till the next day/ or so..to spray the clear ? All I really want to be able to do is paint the engine bay/ door jambs and door frames/ under hood etc. Then I would have someone who knows more than me paint the body sheet metal.

 

Every paint has a tech sheet. Has all the info like ratios, flash time……..
Some base coats can wait 24hours before clearing. But that is tied to temperature. That 24hrs could be set at 70*. The “open” time (how long something can sit before top coating) will be shorter with temps above 70*
With a metallic base coat you can sand it after it flashes or sits too long but a coat of base will have to be applied after sanding.
As with single stage metallic, sanding the base will damage the metallics.

 

This is why I still finger paint.

 

If I'm jamming separately, I get a quart of my color mixed in quick dry enamel. I use it under hood and door jams quite often. My supply store is Axalta/ dupont. As for those old acrylic jobs, I miss the 2000 pak hardener! Made me a better painter lol. Acrylic will flow if your reducer is correct for the temp, but there's a fine line between flowing out and running into the floor. BC/CC is far more forgiving. They even sell jambing clear that dries fast, but protects the basecoat.

 

You might want to call and verify that you can get the color in bc/cc. Check out post 94. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...a-production-car.1267166/page-4#post-14788997

 

Well that all sounds simple enough...I'm lost ! And that my friend is why I stayed in the mechanical side of the garage. I know this all seems like basic info to you, and I know you are doing your best to help. Somehow house paint is looking better to me. I do thank you for everything you've told me. Somehow I will make this happen.
Long ago I work at a shop that did mechanical work (me)..and body work (the other side of shop) . So when I needed help, there were people I could turn to, that was 30 years ago. Like I said I will figure this out. Wish me well & pray for my car. Thanks

 

I've all ready done that. I can get the paint in single stage, and BCCC.

 

Good deal. What color did you choose?

 

Thanks, good to know about " jambing clear "

 

1962 Plymouth Luminous Cordovan for the main body. And 1962 Plymouth Luminous Brown (rosewood) for the roof. The car is a 62 Fury wagon.

 

Nice.

 

If I live long enough...Thanks

 

I'll have to look at the can, but I believe it's called "basefix"

 

What's the purpose if you are doing an all over? Just curious.

 

Generally when I paint old cars, I do it all at one time, but unfortunately the bulk of my body shop business is later model stuff. So when I replace a hood, or skin a door, or replace a door shell, etc... I cut it in before I install it.

 

The jamb clear is essentially the same thing as the old dupont 380S clear. It's a single stage, straight out of the can product