Technical Slip yoke to exhaust clearance

I am slowly building the exhaust on my 32 roadster project (8ba flathead and T5 transmission) and I am curious what the consensus is for clearance for the exhaust pipe to the slip yoke. I do not have the slip yoke yet, but mocked up my best guess using a cardboard tube and a 4” wide white piece of poster board taped to it, 1.25” away from the tail house of the transmission. This is getting me 1/4” clearance. Is it enough?? The slip yoke diameter is probably more like 3.75” wide, so I might have 3/8” clearance in reality. Thoughts???

 

I'd go with it but........that's me.
Shouldn't be much/any ....side-to-side motion between the yoke and pipes.
6sally6

 

What he said.long as it don’t hit your good

 

You are going to need the same room a the yoke on the rear end takes plus wiggle room and clearance. Remember you are working with the circle that the yoke spins in and not just the flat measurement.

 

How about the U joint width?

 

I’d run it.

 

The only time I believe heat on the u-joint would be a problem is if spend a lot of time idling or in parades. A spinning u-joint on a drive shaft stirs up a lot of air and so does air p***ing by exhaust components.

 

Thanks for the replies. I feel better about the location now and will continue the exhaust build as I have it now.

 

Since it's up front the side deflection is minimal. Even if the rear axle shifted 1/2" the movement up front wont be more than maybe 1/16". But it does look like your exhaust could easily move out a little if you're not sure, and maybe just cut a notch in the cross brace if it's too close.

 

Thanks. I do have some room to move the pipe over, but I’d like to avoid it if possible….more work and it may shift the muffler a tad too close to the ladder bars.

 

You will be fine. Nice pictures by the way!

 

Am I seeing something of more concern?

 

It appears that you've got at least another inch maybe 2 inches of clearance by starting that elbow a little more to the right. It would be more than disappointing 5 years from now if you start hearing a banging sound coming from under the floor.. only speaking from experience, I have "retrofixed", if that's a word, more than a few things on The Judge... That's a whole lot easier to make the change now then when you are on the road.

 

you want the 1310 small slip yoke
not a 1330 or a 1350
you want a th350 gm slip yoke 1310
n/b
the prop place i go to will only use 3'' tube on anything about 55 inches long
why is that?
is it because he only has 3'' 1310 drive shaft yokes
?
or is there something to it?

plus of course, you don't want the stock gm style slip yoke with the inney clips either
and want the style with the outey clips
2 cents

qnd lastly
what length is a stock s10 slip yoke

and very lastly
are you aware that it is noted that you ream the internal oi;ite style bush to fit the slip yoke

?

maybe if its a new bushing

 

Concern being close to the frame? I’ve got 1/4” clearance at those spots, though the pics don’t reflect that. I know it’s not a very clean routing, but I just went with the direction the Reds Headers were pointing until I could shoot the pipe up inside the frame

 

This is what has been lurking in the back of my head after I finished that first section. I looked proudly at my beginner-level work and thought “****….will that be enough room for a slip yoke?”

 

Yes! Thanks for the reply. I’ve been researching slip yokes and u-joints to try and determine what I need and the size of it and came to the same conclusions - 1310 with the outey u-joint clips.

 

oh and if you are a novice, NO NOT put any paint on the pinion yoke where the universal joint sits in...........

 

No below the K member rather than thru it as far as ground clearance is concerned. But it appears this routing is only temporary so carry on.

 

At least put some heat wrap on it. Even this far down the pipe can still be extreemly hot.

 

I think for the most part you are good to go. I would not ponder on little measurements and increments, as long as you have clearance.

 

Ah, gotcha. I think ground clearance is OK at 9” (at unloaded ride height). The pipe is actually above the transmission case and the bell housing. I was thinking of going through the frame from the headers, but the way the header is positioned it was already shooting in this direction so I went with it. Figure it might be easier to install/remove with this forward portion under the K member as well. Little quirky and won’t win me a Riddler, but it should work.