Well that's a good question that I often pondered, why guys do this or that. Because frankly, if ya did the math on it, all the way is a bit over kill. I'm guessing if the strength argument is a wash your left with the appearance thing as to why. How were you planning on boxing it? Outie or innie? Hotrod MD - Jim Clark ~ Rod Ends (hotrodhotline.com)
while your talking model a frame boxing , i just had to put the word out about a company in nebraska called CODE 504 that makes the best boxing parts anywhere ! For model A they have " U " channel plates that slide in side the A frame perfectly front to rear . SUPER STRONG and fit well . Recomended to weld 2 " long every 4 " s
I've seen the Code 504 kit mocked in a ch***is. They did seem to fit decently. I went with the Wolfe's 3/16" kit and ground the nubs off to inset them. No problem with the fitment. They are welded fully. I like the plates because they allow you to weld in buts for body mount bolts and such.
I almost always skip weld boxing plates. Almost being the operative word here. If I was throwing a lot of meat at it I would weld it solid. Skip welded leaves it a little room to flex and a little flex is a good thing. I think that there is an old Chinese proverb about that something about a tree and wind and such. I was actually thinking about this subject the other day. Back when the cars that we emulate were being built partial boxing was really common. IE boxing back to around the end of the transmission. granted back then they were just running flatheads and smaller valve in head engines. Not like the fire breathing behemoths that we are running today. But partially boxed was way more common than fully boxed.
I prolly would weld it solid but.........skip welds say 4"....space 4"...weld 4"......is incredibly strong! (NOT tack weld but skip weld!) Thinka-bow-dit....a fillet weld the size of the base material 4" long would lift the entire car and THEN SOME ! Jus say'in 6sally6
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