I has describe my project here several times and the road has open new doors and ideas. I basic had the idea of a traditional 32 coupe based of of Larrys 3W 32. It had s slim look and traditional but had some modern parts as a CSB, 5-speed and a Winters rearend, and frame was pinched in and its cool but the more I dig I was leaving that idea. Ruff interiour with airplane seat etc is also cool but I leaved that idea to. As I could not find a decent 3W body or they was expensive in US I leaved that idea but was also in a new body but a shop in LA was huge bucks to chop and put in a steel roof, I think it was 20-30K on labour (?) so I leaved that idea and as I wanted a Henry it make sense. So next step was bought a new B-ville 29 roadster for use a ’time’ and style was late 30’s or early 40’s but after order the body and saw one here I chanched my mind direct ( this was not my cup of tea ) I then came over a Henry 5W here in Sweden and price high but it was close and it was chopped in US back then and had got a new floor but the chop was terrible done but I find a guy here who will help next winter. As I allready had a std frame as I bought in a kit with some parts as pedals, 32 steering box, Halibrand QC, Anson 34 dropped axle, 32 front spring, Ford 40 brakes etc. I never did like that axle so I sold it and was into a std 32 ( heavy ) but hard to find here and expensive in US. It ended up I bought a 34 axle again and got it dropped here ( very nice ) As idea was a QC I bought a A-Ford cross and a spring and clips. But I has been on and if on that deal. I then came over a Lincoln 39 gear box, 34 TQ tube, Ford 16” wheels 4” front and 5” rear and bougt Firestones 4.50 and 7.50. As I had a 37 axle I has been on and off if use 36 bones but decided I go with the 37 as they came. I had a unsplitted 32 V bone but decided go splitted. Now the era start moved into even early 50’s but the concept was late 40’s. It’s based on the Ardun heads and the QC. The Ardun head was not there from start but as I had 3 cracked 59AB block I was into fix it and get a new set, but it did leave me to a std set. Last week I bought a S/W Master panel and I’m super happy on that and I also found a Bell steering wheel 17” 4 spoke or a 15” 3 spoke - but I has not set up my mind on that as this car is more early dragracing than a desert racer or dirt track or Bonneville. So maybe a Ford 40 wheel might be best. I has also thinking of no tank or with std tank but I found a very nice std here so I will use that one. And last week a new part to the game came, I found a very nice heavy front axle. This got me very happy as in my world a 32 in this style really need a 32 heavy axle. So basic this is a all Henry part racer and std seat in, soft roof, chopped rather hard and the car will be black ( no fenders ) and moderate chrome. Guide front lamps and 39 rear. -As Ardun head set the style and no hood I’m again into leave the QC... Shore its cool but is it not more raw ( and limited the car ) to go a Henry housing at rear and the std cross ( frame will be unboxed ) As if style was based on the heads invest ( if one think like a person build it back then ) Today I saw this car on internet and I was direct back on this idea. Thoughts ?
Hank: Lots of question from you. Lots of answers from us. How about some pictures of where your project stands at this time. I'm sure many of us are wondering ?
@krylon32 I think Hank is still in the process of collecting all the parts needed for his build but a pic of the 5 W and his goodies would be great. Hank, as you are planning to run the tank the QC will not be visible (pic you posted was taken with the camera on the floor, not many will get that view ) and a QC gives you an easy way to change the rear axle ratio to suit your driving condition.
I like QC rears - because I can easily change the ratio from something that is fun around town (like a 4.11 or 4.56 gear) to something that is great on the highway - like a 3.30 or so. This is especially true if you're running a non-overdrive transmission. I can ***ure you, that when you run a 39 box, you're always in a compromise situation -- what is fun around town, doesn't work on the highway (unless you want to rev the piss out of your engine) . . . what works on the highway is no fun in local stop-n-go traffic or if you want to have some haul-*** starts from a stop. The QC gives you the flexibility to have fun - regardless of the type of situation. On another note - you'll find that a 39 Ford box, a banjo rear with standard axles and a high-output Ardun . . . leave a bit to be desired. If you drive it hard, you'll be breaking things - and you can't just go to a junk yard and grab another set of Zephyr gears for $25. Why destroy a bunch of parts? If I was running a decently built Ardun, I'd run a modern trans and better axles (even if you run the banjo and Halibrand - put 8" style Ford axles in it).
Thanks on inputs. I think I showed most or allot of parts I got in threads but as I’m collecting parts now and change style I see no reason get a build up yet ( but it will come when I’m in mock-up ) I started this last year so collect the parts has gone fast, but one issue is to find my ’style’ of the car but it start to make sense what I’m after. I has allready a extra ch***ie here on left overs :- ) Not planned it but thats the way it can be. On driving with a Ardun head power and maybe a blower. This coupe is built up as a early dragracing car or street racing on parts that was aviable in the late 40’s. I could use H-beams rods and a stroker crank but it will be a Merc 4” crank and 8BA rods and a modern pressuare plate etc, but I dont like that stuff. It will be no China crank in that 59AB block but I has nothing against this parts. It will be Ross pistons but if I could find a std set or 30 over I get them. I will never run this car hard, I’m only after style and sound. I might even run it on Vp fuel just for the smell. So its a limited use just to make me smile. I has a 70 Hemi Cuda in A/SA ( I raced Mopar muscle since 1988 ) and now I has a brand new motor so car will be in the 9.60’s and 30 meter on the rear tires so I has no use for RPM the Ardun. But no racing 2023 as build a 32 is not cheap. Back on the rearend. Yes one will not see much of it as I will use tank, and as a ’city car’ only I has not much need change gears. If I was building a hot rod to drive it, I would been build it cl***ic but way diffirent in parts. So question was, how did the guys back then do ? Shore the QC was there in the era and maybe guys drove to desert and race used them ( make sence ) but how did the local racer do that was on asphalt and more dragracing ? This is more a ’feel’ how it was done, not on invest or the ’looks’. My frame has still the std cross snd I has both Henry house and a 201 house plus I has the A-Ford parts. As I said now when I got the heavy axle, no Schoerder box just the 32 box and 32 bones the std 32 parts talk to me more. ( But who dont like a Halibrand )
That’s why my 26T RPU is running a winters nostalgia quick change that I ordered through Speedway motors. It’s amazing.
Use a new nostalgia made unit is a great choice. But on my coupe now, its not. If I did go new frame rails from start I would been on a much ’better’ road so to speak. New stuff make it more easy, one can get frech stuff, less price, better use of the car and still be traditional ( if one like that. Evrything is better, as round wheels, no worry over find parts over the world that seldom is correct or as they was made once and one can du burnouts not think twice. Its 2023 now and market is there. Its not spring 1953. That was 70 years ago. In my dragracing for 30 years I had a old school car ( Hemi Cuda 70 ) but I always saved up and bought - still does to get new speed parts. I can tell a story. In my early days I order a Direct Connection distributor and DC was getting in to be chanced to Mopar Performance and who like to get parts at DC logo ? Anyway my father did run a CSB on the 70’s cl***ic build up with tunnelram and dual Holley 660 ( in a old Opel... ) and he had a mechanical Moroso RPM gauge. But when I came out on the 80’s with my Super Bee/383 it was Autometer and Weld wheels so who did like a mechanical tach or Cragar wheels ? I got my distributor from Hamburgers in Toms River NJ and it came in a DC box and a mechanical tach end outlet. I was dispointed and cutted thread off ! Last week I bought a mechanical end of crank adapter for a tach at 1K. So things change. -But who in the world does things like that, it’s strange. Why not hook up a MSD 6 and a new S/W tach ( look old school buts its new ) Anyway, I think I get my idea what I will do now more clear on the rear end. A question, what is a Halibrand 201 housing emoty today in price ? I might has one, so PM me if you need one.
Overseas I think you should get at least $2,000.00 US. I paid $1,600.00 delivered last month for this 1950 bare case. No damage but the upper gussets were shortened. I am in the QC business and know I got a good deal. PS; Do yourself a favor and run an S10 five speed. So MUCH FUN!. If you want to run hard some times. A 201 with 28 spline axles. My flathead/5 speed 27 with a Hal. [ odd ball cover ] and a 28 I built with a Winters.
1600 sounds like a good deal for a 201, I dont think I can sell my for that money ( thought they was over 3K ) Common sense is 5 speed but a Lincoln Zephyr 39 gearbox is old hot rodding and shifter is moved to right. Then as I might run less hubcaps on my Ford 16” x 5” wheels at rear so one will see the Lincon 40’s drums and end of axles. Common sense is new 28 splines with modern ends, so all in all some of the look and feel goes away. Its like run Ardun heads, why would anyone use a std set today more than look at ? There are new made or use any CSB with a good cam they outrun all Ardun heads for small bucks. Thats really common sense for wallet. I talked to a guy here I know that bought a very cool chopped hard 34 coupe from USA, built in old style and a Caidllac engine and 5-speed. He checked out another 34 coupe first and it had a traditional FH and a 39 box, he said it was a joke to drive it ( nothing for him ) For me to own and run a hot rod, I has some ideas how it was made back in the days. It shore not fit all, or my guess very few now.
On history. I wonder how many of the guy raced around the streets in So Ca and used the QC. This is my ideas how it might was ( I can be wrong ) but maybe not all raced in desert or dirt track or salts. Dragracing on asphalt must has started after the war and NHRA started 51. The QC was playing a role of course change gears ( as even now ) but the early dragracers before NHRA or in between - did they really used them ? Another info I need is related to thread is ; when did the racers start ( read street racers ) start to use open driveshafts ? I can't se much point ( back then ) use a magnesium banjo from a Ford cast besides its a speed parts that is cool ( and light ) The QC was made in cast aluminium ( or magnesium ? ) as more easy than cast iron.
I will sell my Culver City QC and invest in a Halibrand no QC housing. I will not get out the same price as the non QC but I think it will be grat on my coupe.
I've been enamored by Halibrand quick change rears since first spying one in a magazine as a kid, but those non Q/C's are nearly as cool, I think the first one I saw was in a photo of a car that Ken Fenical (Posie) built, if nothing else it would make a neat wall hanger. No, not a clock either!
I has found and bought a magnesium Halibrand no QC. Auction ? Ok, Lets go. If it reach my lowest price or better until Monday USA east coast time at 12.00 ( lunch ) I ship free worldwide. I accept Pay Pal. Start bid is at USD 1.000. This is a Culver City ( guess early 50’s ) and its decent, I’ll sern better used but as ’used’ its all Ok even cast as it was ( not polished etc ) and I would not get on the OEM surface personally. It’s repaired at the lower bearings. I heard its common issue and several told me that lower bearing support is not needed, but its fixed but its not the best work.
Good luck with the auction. The C C cover is a plus. The welded bearing support is a minus, but because the 201 supply over here is very SLIM it must be extremly rare over there. FYI. I built a TROG ch***is with an off brand 201 that had been miss machined. No way to install the small bearing. It's been on the road for about 2 years now. Been drag raced several times. [ 28 spline axles ] Running a 293 **** stroker engine.
I can fix the bearing support and I talked to a guy that is a VERY good welder and I will machine a support. Will it make it better, no. It’s still broken and can never be as casted But if the best bidder ( if reach my lowest price ) I will add 100 USD. It took a picture dated now on my lowest price I show on Monday.
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