Technical Broken water fitting in block

Today I was removing the factory style trans cooler from our 65 F100 to upgrade to something better. It’s got a 240 cid with a C4 (or cruiseomatic), and it was originally fitted with this weird setup that had trans cooler lines running into this small rectangle thing that has steel pipes with coolant running through them. One went to a T valve split into the lower rad hose, and the other threaded into the side of the block just above the starter. Anyway, everything went pretty well for being rusted to hell, except that the fitting that bolts into the block broke off. From what I can tell the threaded part is still in there. What’s the best way to fix this?

 

Easy out should remove that.

 

Also just to note, I’m not going to reuse anything from the original setup, so I don’t need that hole there for anything anymore

 

If access is available, drill/drill/drill then run a pipe tap to plug it off. Too oily to heat with a torch. An easy out might work, just don’t muscle it when trying.

 

Start soaking it with penetrating oil as you contemplate your options

 

Don’t get crazy with an ease out. I busted an intake removing a busted fitting
If it’s br*** that ease our will probably chew it up.
It’s worth a shot but don’t bow up on it.
If any of its sticking out, a punch could be used to collapse it inward.
I used a mini hack saw blade to cut slits and a punch to collapse it.

 

A fine tooth jigsaw blade will make short work on that.

 

A good quality set of these type extractors will be fine.

 

Use a left hand drill bit

 

Try a pipe ease out. They are different than other ease out.

 

That’s br***,,,,,should be fairly straightforward to remove.
Just take your time .

Tommy

 

Those style ez outs that old timer posted will remove that br*** fitting with no problem.
I use them all the time as a boiler mechanic.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. I’m gonna pick up a set of ez outs and give that a shot. Never used them before, any tips?

 

Don't buy cheap ones. (HF)

But if you aren't reusing the part, why do you care about the broken fitting?

 

My Buddy at work used to say the extractors from the Harbor will never cause you any trouble because they are made of wood.

 

Best advice use caution and don’t get to heavy handed and take your time you will be fine.

 

These are my favorite, they are square instead of spirol, that fitting will come out in seconds with one of these.

 

In my experience, with br*** the best thing to do is, using some jeweler's files, file two slots opposite each other the depth of the fitting, then turn the fitting out with the proper size screwdriver.

 

Give it a sharp rap with a hammer to shock the threads before using a quality extractor, and it should come out. Another option would be to simply cut internal threads in the broken ****** with a 1/8" pipe tap and screw in a pipe plug with sealer.

 

It occurred to me that I never remember to come back and update my thread, so I just wanted to pop back in and say thanks for all the advice everyone. I was able to get it out today using the kit that 57ChevyMadMan recommended. I soaked it in PB blaster over the past week, used a whole can pretty much, and then today just before attempting to extract it I used a mixture of acetone and trans fluid, which I read about in a unrelated thread on the hamb.

it actually came out pretty easily after I tapped the bit in with a hammer and slowly unscrewed it with a ratchet and a swivel extension. Today was a good day.

 

I was going to recommend a SBC swap!

 

Thanks for letting us know the outcome , Good on ya'