Any clues as to how I can adjust this distributor or ??? so car starts quick when warm. Motor runs great otherwise. Thank you, Guy
On small block distributor in the back, Turning ""Counter clockwise"" Avances the timing , clockwise retards. Usually 3/8 bolt with a 9/16 head Crowsfoot holds distributor tight . Loosen just enough to turn distributor, (usually half to 3/4 of a turn on head of bolt ) You will need a timing light, & pick up lead of timing light on #1 spark plug wire @ boot . ( let us know what its set @ now) Stock factory setting ,@ idle 800 ish rpms , more likely is around 9-12 deg before TDC , more likely it will like 15-18 deg before TDC
It could be a lot of other issues besides timing to high, weak battery, dirty cables, poor ground , worn starter .
TA Dad knows, If it fires right off cold or if it is a stick and fires right off on a slight roll and clutch drop it isn't the timeing or the engine. It is first the size of the starter cables, the connections and heat soak to the starter especially if you have headers. My 77 dually 454 Chevy did the same thing for the first few years I had it but I don't drive it unless it has a job to do. The fix took getting rid of the 4 gauge cables and putting on 2 gauge cables, I had already done the Ford solenoid install that helped a lot but wasn't the total fix. Then I installed a heat shield on the starter. As far as timing, I have always started out with between 6 and 8 degrees on a STOCK small block unless the book said otherwise. Outside of specific performance models the older Hamb friendly engines almost always call for 4 degrees advanced in the tune up book. For most of us that is the starting point we tune from.
Agree, need to look at the total starting as a system. Good cables and wiring, clean connections, strong battery, strong starter, ignition timing, and heat soak. Heat soak is a common issue, and is made worse by any of the above not being at proper working conditions as a contributing factor. The Ford solenoid modification is a good thing to increase the solenoid pull, but an old solenoid with pitted and corroded contacts is not going to be helped like a new clean contact surface. A new solenoid is pretty cheap and an easy swap if you think the starter is still good. Same with new cables, make sure they are big as you can.
Has anyone used some heat shielding near the starter to help with heat soak? I have a similar problem to OP, when it gets really hot , running stock cast exhaust manifolds.
If you don't have an insulator between the carb and the intake, that is the first place to start. Today's fuel boils at a very low temperature. You must keep as much heat out of the carb as possible.
I'd start with the battery ground, engine ground. Is the battery grounded directly to the engine? If not, how is the engine grounded to the negative side of the battery?
lots of people use heat shields including the factory in some applications . hundreds of after market applications . OP next time its turning hard when hot disconnect the coil wire or disable the ignition if it still turns over slow then its NOT ignition timing . Load test the battery and see if its good . run heavy cables and heat shiled will not hurt. It also can easily be the starter . Is this a newer engine ? Check the amperage its drawing also .
the next question is define hard starting . Is it cranking slow or is just not starting like is should and the starter is spinning the engine fine ? If its pulling the a lot of amps cranking also check the voltage drop to the coil . If it gets to low then spark gets weak .
The motor turns over fine but just will not start when warm. I have to hang around the parking lot until motor cools down then it will catch.
One thing to cross off list , You state that engine spines over easy ,No drag when Hot. Now to next step, When this happen , Does it have spark / firing, Is ther power to coil, Lack of fuel or carb dripping . There are few other that can cause hard start. Need to check the obvious to diagnose problem. Air ,Fuel , Spark !
I’d try another coil, run into this twice. Vehicle ran fine until shut down would not start again until the engine cooled off
Does it have an HEI distributor? If so, it sounds like time for a new module. Does it have points? If so, it sounds like time for a new coil.
I second pprather's diagnosis, today's components are shi* and I've run into the same warm hard start thing with my 96 truck - module replacement changed that but it's starting to do that again after 2 years (of course the price has doubled for the same module). Try a new coil if that doesn't work.
An ignition module (if you have an HEI) can drive you nuts. I have had them do all sorts of nasty business on me. I had one that would **** out and re-start after a wait of 5 minutes, go 200 yards, rinse, repeat. The last bad one I had, I could drive and start the car all day. Providing I let it sit for no more than 15 minutes, then the heat-soak got to it. I had to wait 2 to 3 hours and it started fine.
After you said it turns over fine but doesn’t start hot I think rockable hit it. I have 3/8” phenolic spacers under my carbs but a 1/4” will do. Cheap insurance. Todays gasoline doesn’t want to be hot. Make sure all connections are good with the proper size wire.
Had the very same problem in an ot chevy and my 27, both turned out to be bad grounds and high resistance… when trying to restart when warm check how hot the battery cables are. Dang hot soak chevy!
The Jalopy Journal
