Technical Chevy GASSER TRANS questions

Those cheater slicks must be some really sticky things to handle a blown BB and a jericho. I'd run a clutch turbo. Torqueflites are tuff son of a guns too. Lippy

 

Clutch Flite

 

Not many guys are successfully running a clutch turbo or clutch flite on the street. None that I know of. It's a really tough setup to get right.

 

My OT street/strip car has a faceplated Toploader that I did myself in 2010 using Liberty parts. Still in the car...

Here's a pic of a trial fitting of 2nd inside the main case. The Toploader now has been faceplated in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Keeping the 1st gear synchro makes it easier to drive on the street, as you can slip it in and out of gear while idling at a stoplite. If you decide to faceplate your own Toploader (or have a local shop do it for you), this pic also shows the gap dimensions I use which tighten up the slider travel distance quite a bit over what you get when Liberty does it. My shifter knob travel is 1-1/2" from neutral in each gear, which translates to 3" overall arm movement when shifting...



Here's the same transmission as above, except 5 years later. You can see some rounding of the edge of the 2nd gear dogs in this pic, we pulled the trans down to replace them. What you can also see is the aluminum shift rail stops we added on both sides of the shift forks. This greatly reduces the hammering effect of the rail's inertia on the forks, we have had no problems with bent or broken stock shift forks at all. This pic also shows the stop collar lengths that I use...



I have other details about the faceplated Toploader build on my car's website, as well as details on building my own bellhousing and sheetmetal tailhousing from scratch. Here's a link to that website... https://grannys.tripod.com/20102.html

Grant

 

Great info and pictures, Grant. Thanks!

 

That's a cool build page! I skimmed thought it real quick, I'll have to revisit that later and comb through it, looks interesting!

 

I ran a G force G -101 4 speed, 2.93 first gear, vert gate Long shifter, for several years, behind a naturally asperated pump gas 548" BBC. It was in a 3600# car, never trailered, 126 mile round trip on race day, ran best of 9.63 at 141. I used the clutch to shift on the street and at the drags. Sintered iron 10.5 single disc clutch from Tim Hyatt clutches. Never had any trouble. The Liberty pro shift stuff needs to be taken apart and de- burred on a regular basis. The face plated stuff does not. With my tall 32" tire I had to run a 4.86 rear gear. 3000 rpm's at 60 mph on the freeway. You can run a 4.10 with a 30" tire.

 

Back in the superstock days Chrysler use to sell ""Slick Shift packages"" for there cars.... I have built a few and they were very good for racing but not on the the street....A lot of the stuff on this thread is OT so here's my two cents.... Lenco makes a street ****** that works good....It will handle all the HP you want to throw at it...Like was said above I think SEGA requires a clutch to be used.....

 

Great info, thanks for relaying your real world scenario of driving that bad*** setup on the street. It's interesting to know different perspectives of driving these cars that far. Sounds like a good time! I feel like that's a YOLO opportunity that you almost just have to try for yourself to see if it's something a guys wants to experience (deal with? lol...) I'm excited to give it a go! I'm hoping my buddy will sell me his fresh 468 8:1 long block engine so I can get it bolted up to a dog box and get things mocked up. It's kind of hinging on the availability of that engine right now to see where my timeline/budget is going to be sitting. I have a decent small block I can build but I'd sure like to go big!

 

Tnks for the feedback. What's OT?

 

If you are entertaining any thoughts on actually racing, that compression ratio will need ADJUSTING!

 

off topic.

 

It's OK for a blower motor....which is what we're talking about here....

 

I plan to run an 8-71 blower and have a line on a couple, which is why the low compression. It's been built with the intention to accept a blower already which is why I'm interested in picking it up. If the getting is good enough to pick it up as a long block, I can mock it up in the frame on the mounts, setup my fenderwell headers and steering parts and hold off on all the blower top end parts for a bit.

 

I'm hip to all that but I thought we were talking SEGA.

 

We were using SEGA as an example of cars that use modern technology transmissions....

 

I'm not familiar at all with SEGA regs and rules, as much as I wish that circuit was more local to me up here in WA. I mainly just have an affection for the g***er era and have always wanted something at least similar to one of those TRI-5 cars from the period. I'm not going to hit the nail on the head and build a perfect by the book g***er but it'll have the look and feel for the most part and mainly be a hell of a lot of fun to play with! I'm coming into this kind of one piece at a time and trying to come up with a good plan for the build but also kind of winging it. I keep learning more and have changed course a couple times in the process. I appreciate the help and inputs, I've had several questions and sought input on a few things and you guys have been a big help.

 

If you put your location on your HAMB profile, we'll be able to tell that you're in WA, and that SEGA is not something you'd have to worry about.

 

Done!

 

TH400 it is!! ATI full manual valve body, reverse shift pattern.