Technical Chevrolet X frame carrier bearing question

So I had this plan to cut out some clearance on the rear section of my driveshaft tunnel to accommodate a one piece driveshaft, but digging in i realized that my ladder bar crossmember p***es under the section of frame that I would need to cut out I've been looking for info online about the strength of the stock driveshaft setup in these cars. It seems to me that a 409 4 speed car has the same driveshaft that my 60 El Camino has? Yes or no? I see that summit sells a billet carrier bearing for $150, about the same cost as I would pay to have my driveshaft made, so that being said, if I put a billet carrier bearing in it with the stock diameter driveshaft, am I gonna suffer catastrophic failure with some spirited launches from a less than impressive 287 SBC? What about once I put the big block in the car? I would like to think that the 409 cars tested the durability of the stock setup? Thanks for any help or guidance fellas

 

Saltflats could answer this one

 

I think accuracy will be the key. As long as alignment and balance is spot on you'll get a lotta miles out of it. And yes, mid bearings have come a long way. My truck weighs 8000lbs and I pull 10K+ loads often. Diesel TQ. All good.

 

Yeah I've been working with him on the dimensions of the notch that's needed in the frame, but that's out now. I'd have to completely re-engineering my ladder bar setup to go that direction

 

This is the **** I'm afraid of

 

@saltflats what's your thoughts James?

 

Here's what I'm talking about on my ladder bar crossmember

 

Nice looking welds Lloyd, Maybe build a square safety hoop in the ladder bar crossmember over the top and bottom deep enough for the single piece drive shaft to spin in

 

It was gonna be an epic burnout, and when I slipped my foot off the clutch, it all went to hell lol

 

I ran the O'Reilly version in mine. The spot-weld broke at some point, and it was only torquing on one bolt. I ruined it finally by not setting the location properly. It lasted 17 years. I wanted a billet one when I first put it together with a a 427 and 4 speed. didn't need it. I destroyed my spider gears from spirited driving, but the driveshaft was fine. It is the same bearing as my 66 C10 also. I abused the hell out of that poor truck, hard launches, burnouts, towing heavy lods. I broke rear ends, and u joints. I did have a driveshaft break one night. I think for your needs, you will be fine. If worried, look up Inland empire drive lines options for driveshafts. If you are really worried, and ever make it to ca my buddy got me this narrowed to fit a 59.

 

Found the weakest link, bearing caps held up good lol

 

I've been reading on another forum and that seems to be the general consensus, a guy over there said the same thing, if they held up to the 409, his 327 wasn't gonna break it lol. Thanks man

 

Big help on those was to put at slip yoke in the rear shaft, all my X frame cars have them (and my old '64 panel). IF you blow up the stock style carrier you can always put on the HD unit later. I've tried all different things over the years, filled the rubber with silicone, welded braces on the outside and the best was the extra slip yoke.

 

My old '63 wagon had bags, so I had a local driveshaft place add a slip joint which I think was out of a Jeep, in the rear shaft. Worked slick. I put a brand-new STOCK style carrier bearing in it & it lasted a VERY short time. Replaced it w/ a billet/urethane bushing one I bought off of eBay, and never had another issue. I would never use a stock one again. But, my 230 6 cyl. / Powerglide didn't make enough power to twist anything.

 

Mine is built in a G***er style, it's not lowered. ladder bars and QA-1 coilovers with a panhard bar. Some give in the rear suspension, but it's not soft by no means.

 

I got a 58 Impala when I was 17. It had a 348 and a 3 speed stick (Hurst shifter). Being 17 I ran the devil out of that car, abusing the tires at every stop light. Then I put a tri-power on it and abused it some more. The weak link was the transmission. I used to break the necked down part of 2nd gear. The only problem I ever had with the drive line was that the center support broke away from the bolted in part. That let the shaft wobble around inside the frame tube. If I drove it easy, it worked okay but it you got on it, it made a heck of a noise. I eased it home and replaced that bearing support. Never had another trouble and I had the old car for about 7 years.

 

I’ve got a billet/urethane carrier bearing and slip yoke in the rear shaft of my '60 El Co. It hasn’t given me any problems behind a 454 4 speed. Can’t say the same for the rear axles…

 

Good info and it eases my mind. I appreciate you fellas. Thank you

 

Lloyd, I’m glad I’m not the only one who thinks about what needs to be done “after I’ve done it” .
That’s why I don’t work with wood much, **** doesn’t weld worth a dang.

 

I had a Lakewood "blow proof" Chevy-Ford u-joint fail on a stock car with my foot to the floor. It took out the ears on the driveshaft bung... had to conjure up another one. Went to a Car Quest $5.98 joint that held up for a year of racing.

 

Spend your $$ ONCE. I can go with this.

My brother had a carrier bearing fail on his '64 GMC with the hot 327 in it while heading back from the bar. The rear shaft whipped around, banged the bed up a bit, tore out his lighting wire to the back of the truck. My other brother (no license) hitched home and borrowed dad's Chevy wagon and a few tools, they pushed the dead truck home.

 

Lloyd, had a '62 dual quad 409" car and a twin with a 327", 4 speed. Installed new carrier bearings and
U-joints in both. Never, ever had an issue and did some hard launches in both cars over 10yrs. Just my
experience.

 

I thought that 48” was as long as any single drive shaft could be ??? So it can’t flap at high speed ???

 

No one tell the shaft in my truck that…it’s 54” I think….

 

The shaft that I have is 60" I believe, not sure what it came out of. Best I recall, it needed to be shortened 2" to fit.

 

That's how I do it. And tighten the rear u joint in the rear end, then tighten the carrier bolts. So should I just pull it and do the urethane trick on the isolator and let it ride?

 

I appreciate ya Bob, everybody is easing my mind.

 

I’ve obviously never had one of those cars, being a mopar guy, but there are thousands running around, I can’t say I would worry much about it.