Projects Old or new drive shaft?

I have an original drive shaft for my 57 Ford wagon that I need to get cut down about two inches. I have heard of them getting rusty on the inside, is it worth it to get cut down or just get a new one?

mike

 

I haven't seen them get rusty inside, As I remember the 57 driveshafts were tapered on one end.

 

Sure, driveshafts rust on the inside; however, for rust to continue, it would need a ready-supply of Oxygen.

Unless your driveshaft has a hole in it, it is sealed. Even if it is a slip-spline shaft, the splines should be tight, and greased, disallowing much air entry.

 

I've cut open driveshafts that have laying in mud and water for years and the inside would still be shiny steel. Like was said, it'd have to have a hole in it somewhere for water to get in. Not out of the possibility factor though. A pinhole in a weld would be enough for some to get in, but it would take a long time to rust it out.

 

"bop" it a few times with a rubber mallet, and then shake it. If it is rusty on the inside, it should sound like it has sand in it.

 

How bad does the outside look? Are you sure your old drive shaft isn't bent? How much does the cost of shortening your shaft cost compared to a "new" shaft, and is the "new" shaft really new, or newer used?

 

You are planning on cutting it so see what its like inside.

 

I've done a lot of them and for me over the years I have found a good driveshaft shop and it has been cheaper to have a new one built with new joints and yokes. It may not work that way for everyone?

 

Thanks guys, I am thinking that like Bamamav said it takes a long time to rust out. I think I will go the short route unless it is toast when they cut it open. Thanks for the advice.

 

I've cut down several and they never had any rust inside. Are you trying to do the cut down yourself? ***uming the tubing is straight for few inches past the yoke, it can be done at home. Carefully cut/grind through the weld and just through the tubing layer at the yoke weld. Then slide the yoke out. Cut the tubing down required amount. Slide yoke back in, paying attention to orientation and being square. Tack real good, then weld with smooth good penetration welds. Chances are the balance isn't going to change with only removing couple inches. Or take to a driveshaft shop and let them do it.

 

You could just re tube it using your existing ends

 

I used to do them all the time for the stock cars. Real junkyard stuff, find one longer than what you need. I would cut out the rear plug with a diamond-blade hack saw blade. Take the yoke/plug to work and clean it up on the lathe. Cut down the tube, bevel the inside edge with a big round file until the yoke/plug tapped in easily. Square it up with a big square, tack weld it in 2 spots and check again, then weld it up. I never had a balance issue with any of them. But any 'shaft shop could balance it.

Work out the $$ either way with a driveshaft shop. I looked at junk ones for my Ford, they were going for $100 and up at the time. A shop built mine 100% new for $300 using 3.5" tubing, all ****er and Neapco parts including new u-joints.

 

I’ve done both but I never had rust issues with old drive shafts. Now for the fun part…. I would go with a new one if you’re putting a lot of horsepower out just because you can get a bigger one and you won’t have to worry about wadding it up. I’ve killed a few of them in my ‘51 Ford and it’s no fun.

 

I've always used old driveshafts to cut down, and my local driveline shop has never had any issues if the outside wasn't pitted or damaged. I've cut a few down myself also, and never seen one even slightly rusty inside.

 

I change everything that I build, if they are not already there, to ****er 1310/1330/1350 joints, and just use off-t******lf driveshafts from race suppliers.

Those are often sold in 1-inch increments, and even in 1/2-inch steps in some ranges!

When I cannot get ****er yokes for the transmission or axle, I use an adapter u-joints.

For example: https://www.colemanracing.com/Drivetrain/Drive-Shafts-and-Yokes/DRIVESHAFT-STEEL-3-1310

30-inches, to 60-inches, in 1/2-inch increments. They will do ones down to 16-inches on-request.

 

I have cut them down myself as well. The way I do it ... once the tube is shortened I tap the end into position then bolt the driveshaft into place. I verify that the length is correct then I set up a dial indicator on the tube and turn the driveshaft by hand and tappity tap tap until I have no runout. One tack, spin by hand again and adjust for zero runout. Tack again etc. Once I have four tacks on it and the runout is still acceptable (meaning as close to zero as I am capable of), I remove it, weld it and done. I have had no issues doing it this way.

 

You could use a Crown Vic police car driveshaft. Aluminum, 3.5" diameter, 1350 u-joints, balanced to 140 mph. picked mine up for $50 and got it shortened. They come with flange style universal which is a simple swap to your 57 rear axle and trans. Conversion u-joints are available to match everything up also.

On a side note, not sure what engine trans you have in your 57 but you may get lucky and not to shorten at all with the cop car unit. Mine is a BBF, c6 so it did require shortening.

 

Here’s my old oem from my 1957 Custom. Pretty much 54 1/2” Center to Center . Your wagon shares the same wheelbase as my Custom.

 

The drive shaft that came with the power train allegedly came from a Fairlane and is a stock 312 with a 4 bbl. So I don't think that I will twist this thing up. I read about a shaft that rusted and grenaded from another guy who has a wagon and apparently it was not an isolated incident. So I was just covering my bases as I was not sure if it was due to age, rust or something else.

 

If you put a dent in a driveshaft, you might as well throw it away. It is now bent and it not repairable without re-tubing it. Do not clamp the tube in a vise either, same result. Most people do not realize how fragile driveshafts are. When I started in this industry, I worked in the shop in St. Louis that makes drivelines and spent many hours building drivelines.

 

The biggest problem with used shafts is the yokes usually have some damage or are deformed from being beat on etc. Just something to look at. I have hacked up my share in my younger days until I came to understand the u-joint should be fit like a bearing. That is why there are all different thickness clips. I was the front seat p***enger in a street racer 40 or so years ago and the shaft came through the floor at around 100 mph. I have never looked at them the same since that day. The yoke in the top photo looks to have some damage on it.

 

I cut my own.
So far so good.

 

OK, I am getting ready to install the drive shaft in some form or another. Now I am working on a wagon but the drive line came from a fairlane which is apparently a bit longer in wheelbase. Therefore I am ***uming the driveline is longer as well. RMK57 who has a Custom series car says that his drive line is 54.5" give or take and mine is 56 9/16". Now I measured from the end of tail shaft seal to the face plate of the original 9" and came out with 59".

Now I have two questions:
1) I was told by the shop to put the drive line in as far it will go and then measure center joint to center joint as I am ***uming I have to have it cut down about 2".

2) When I installed the drive shaft in all of the way I can get it to fit, so do I need to cut it down? See pic #1 of the fit. And I had the diff on stands to simulate it being under load with the car sitting on it.

Thanks,

Mike

 

The rough standard is to put the transmission yoke all the way in, and then pull it back out 3/4", then measure.

That would be the length you need. Compare that to what you have.

It looks like you are pretty close, but still a little long.

If you are within 1/2" or so, you can cut the the "extra" off of the front of the yoke, and then bevel the edge, so it does not tear the seal on install.

 

Gimpy, that is what I was looking for. So if I cut out 1-2" I will still be fine. Thanks.

 

Uh, no.

Read that again 1/2" is a one-half-of-one-inch, not 1 to 2-inches!

 

My engine builder has a wall-of-shame, busted yokes and twisted up driveshaft tubes. Pretty impressive to see one twisted 360 degrees before it let go.

 

Are you planning to shorten and weld the shaft you have up, or trying to save a buck and have a shop just weld it together? If the latter, go to the shop and ask them what info/procedures to use for length.

 

Your measurements add up. My Custom, Custom 300, Ranchero and your wagon all share a 116” wheelbase, the Fairlane series are 118”. The 56’ 9/16 is close enough to 2” longer than the one I posted a picture of. Providing you use the stock y-block motor mounts and a Ford-o-matic trans the 54.5 length is what you need.

 

I have always done my own and do not remember seeing rust on the inside.