Can anyone help me with questions on installing the open rear driveline kit for Speedway, Hot Rod Works, etc. The instructions are written, but I have questions. No one can seem to help. Anyone here do this? Thanks. Help….
I just read the instructions for the Speedway kit. They are straightforward and correct. The original Model A pinion shaft IS the driveshaft. The open drive kit replaces the whole driveshaft/pinion shaft combo with a stub shaft that is splined on the end that sticks out. The tapered end of both of these is the same. The procedure for installing the stub shaft is the reverse of removing the original shaft. The original shaft goes inside of the pinion gear, and is held in with a nut by the pinion head. The pinion is hollow, to allow the shaft to p*** through. The bearings for the pinion are on the outside of the hollow pinion tube, and DO NOT get removed from the pinion in this process. You may need to borrow/rent a bar-type bearing splitter. Most auto parts stores rent these: The silver part goes under the pinon head, and the jack screw pushes the shaft out of the pinion, after the nut has been removed. Once the original shaft is out, replace it with the stub shaft. Alternately, you can loosen the retention nut about half-way, and smack it with a hammer, block of wood in-between.
Ok, I understand the directions. Something is missing.below is pinion on new shaft If I were to install like this look at the side to side play below Same in this pic below… does the bearing stay on the pinion? And fir in this lip? Below And if so, when bolted to the rear there is nothing to hold bearing from falling into the larger opening of the rear. Does this bushing need to be in the rear? It comes out with the puller. What am I missing here? This does certainly not feel like a bolt in installation. And yes, Speedway. It’s the same as HRW. I’m on a budget and lower price with free shipping helps me. HRW instructions are the same. I need some help or pics here. Can’t believe there is no video I can find…
I have the T5 kit from Eddie in CA. I’m putting a nice picture tutorial on the install. The kit is amazing and so well made. I’m pretty good at these things but lost here with this rear end issue.
In That picture it looks like a taper in the sleeve? That will be the bearing cone, the threaded part will be the adjustment for the pinion.
I 'm not really sure what your issue is. The pinion gear and bearings all stay the same. Leave them alone. All that is required is to remove the drive shaft from the pinion gear and install the stub shaft. Maybe Speedway miscopied Hot Rod Works instructions. Nick @ HRW
All that silver piece with the bolt flange is is the seal holder. Two Timken roller bearings should be on the shaft of the pinion, and those go in the differential housing. It was not necessary to remove all of this.
This is the digram for a later V8 center section. It has an additional bearing that your differential does not have. It is otherwise the same. My finger points to that bearing.
Here is an ***embly video, for a V8 rear. Ignore the extra bearing past the pinion head, and the fact that this pinion is one-piece (and not hollow). All else is the same, or close enough.
That is not a bushing. That is a double-sided Timken roller bearing cup. In the pinion picture I posted earlier you see a bearing cone on the pinion. That bearing cone goes there. The double-sided bearing cup goes over in, and another bearing goes into the other side of the double-sided cup. Then a tabbed washer, then a thin nut, then a tabbed star lock washer, and another thin nut.
***embly order: The inner nut gets torqued so that it takes 37-45 inch-pounds of constant rotational force to turn the pinion (proper bearing preload). The the star washer and outer nut goes on. Tighten the outer nut, and the bend the tabs of the star washer over the nut flats on the outer nut. Once this ***embly is done, heat up the hole in the housing where it goes with a propane torch, to about 300º, and then drop it in. Tap it home with a hammer. Install the seal in the new seal retainer. Then install the seal retainer on the axle housing. That holds the bearing ***embly and the pinion in. Then install the u-joint yoke.
Gimpy, That last post is what I needed. I knew I had to get that bearing cup back in. I guess I just don’t understand how this would’ve been a Bolton kit. How would I have gotten the shaft out to unbolt the nut on the pinion? The puller I burrowed pulled the entire unit out. I get how to put it back now. Just very confused on how a more inexperienced hot rodder would perform this based on supplied directions. Thank you for your ***istance. Phil…
Well, I herniated L4. Was out of commission a few weeks. Finally got the open rear kit installed. After installing I thought, did I put the cotter pin thru the pinion nut? Ugh… I had returned the puller I borrowed but made one out of my pinion nut wrench. It worked great. Yes, pin was there, ugh. Re heat and do it again Dropped right in… Finished install… Thanks Gimpy and all for the help. Will follow up soon. Sent brakes to Randy Gross for re build.
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