Projects 34 Ford 3 window repair/repaint

I'm good with just

Didn't know that the 34 windows slide back stock. The only "power" option on my coupe is the power windows. The car had them when I bought it. I have pretty much redone everything on this car since I've owned and the running board bender has forced me to paint it. It has been a learning experience doing this. Mine had the generic fuzzies which I took out to paint. I will use the single sided generic strip on the bottom of the opening, but my parts guy talked me into using the stock window track for the rear and doors. We'll see how they work?

 

If you haven't seen it, this explains the window operation well.
http://www.34ford.com/dbutcher/34ford.html#WINDOW_REGULATOR

 

Maybe yours will be different; but the stock glass channels were not compatible with the Specialty power windows we put a '34 Tudor doors. Had the metal shop bend up some new U channels which we used with generic fuzzy tracks.

 

Some assembly required. This gas tank cover has been on before but am scrutinizing the fit. As pictured I have some 1/4" spacers between it and the body. I am thinking to add another 1/4" for a total of 1/2" so that the gas cover is at the same level as the body. Is this common to do or is the cover suppose to be lower than the body it meets with?

 

It’s supposed to fit lower than the bead. Not flush.

 

Good to know thankyou.

 

Previously I ran a pair of 8.20/16 Firestone cheaper slicks on the rear of my coupe, they looked great but likely contributed to my mishap. They fit well on a 8" wheel with about a 3/8" clearance on the inside and just in of the fender lip. I sold them and bought a pair of Silvertown 275/65/16 radials. Coker listed the Silvertown as 1/4" wider sectional width than the Firestones. Coker says 10.7" wide but they measure at 11.5". Unfortunately they are way too big. Touch on the inside and as you can see they stickout a bit. Back to searching for tires.

 

Starting to assemble bits to the body. Cannot seem to close this gap between the drivers fender and gas tank cover. When I bought the coupe it had bumpers on it with this cover. I bought another cover, painted it and ran it with no bumpers for the last 10 years. I have to stress this has been a repair and repaint not a full on bare metal project so there have been some compromises. It is much nicer than before and am pretty happy how I got the doors to fit. The tank cover appears to be original to the car. I have opened up the top mounting holes and tightened the drivers side first but still have a 1/4" gap. Fuel filler is centred relatively well. Any ideas on how to fix?

 

Thanks for posting that link. I remember visiting that site a long time ago, but lots of good information. Maybe, I'll work on my 34 Victoria someday!

 

Finally decided on a pair of Michelin 255/70/16 defenders for the rear. Dimensionaly they are very close to the cheaters I ran.

 

Looks good. And you color coordinated your garage floor to match the car! Lots of guys do that.

 

Funny guy. You know what else I do in that room. It sucks not having more space.

 

What tires are you running on the front? I’m building a’34 Fordor with a four inch Pete and Jakes tube drop axle. It came off the trailer with 215-70 14s on six inch rims. They are way too tall.

 

I run 16" x 5.5" wheels on the front. Tires are Excelsior Stahl Sport Radial, that are 25" tall.

 

Welting between fenders and body. Did they come originally, do you like or not?

 

Yes and yes.

 

Seems to be a hugely controversial subject. Lol. I have seen both with and without look good. I installed it on my gas tank cover and rear fenders then left it out on the front fenders. I cannot makeup my mind which I like better. That being said the tank cover needs it by just the way it mates up to the body. Not really happy how that panel fits anyway, so will pull off again and see what I can do.

 

Cut and weld will make it fit better.

 

I hear ya. Normally I start a project in bare metal so I can do just that. 15 years ago when I started to look for a nice 3 window project I found out how expensive they are. For a little more money I bought a finished car. Have had a lot of fun with it and done a lot of changes. Had a mishap last year so decided to "repair and repaint". It has been a compromise as the car is too nice to strip down to nothing ......but I am very picky. Guess that is the trade off on buying a finished car verses a project. I am presently colour sanding and polishing paint. I should have it back on the road for summer.

 

Progressing. Been colour sanding/polishing and assembling panels. When I bought this car it had bumpers. I ran without them and had bought and painted a gas tank cover, Howel I think, without bumper holes. As mentioned in previous posts I have been fighting with making bumper holed panel fit properly. I have decided to buy a new stock panel. I was really not liking the recessed license box anyway.
Hot tip: After washing my polishing pads it is hard to get them dry this time of year. Heated towel rack works really well. Lol

 

I have a "thing" for vintage fog lamps. Have a pair of Marshal Fantastic lamps on my Tourliner. I have had these Electroliner's for sometime. Their going on the 34.

 

You brought up fender welt. The finest cars in the world had the welting painted to match the car. Sadly it didn't last but 5-7 years before the paint would crack. Done right it looks very classy. Black is just passe' IMO. So, what to do? Go to the upholstery shop and find a vinyl, with a grain pattern, that matches the paint as close as humanly possible. You'll need like 2 ½ yds if I remember correctly. Next you need some small rope and good trim glue. Cut some 3" strips and glue it together with the rope in the center. Now you don't have bullshit PVC red street rod welt, you have something akin to the real deal. Here's an actual 1934 pic of a Packard Dietrich in a showroom. These cars sold for $7,000...in 34 (!)

Classy...

 

I have installed on this car before and recently had my upholstery guy make me some up. It is tedious to install. Undecided as of this time. I put the front fenders on without it. Installed it on the rear fenders, then took it out. Gaps are pretty good without. Decisions, decisions.

 

I am installing window channels on my 3 window. It had the generic channels glued in place which I removed to paint. My parts guy said I would be much happier with the stock channels. Have the Vintique channels for the rear roll up. Basicly 3 pieces, 2 rigid and 1 soft rubber piece that goes on top. I cannot find any pictures or instructions on how to place them. Obviously the rigid go on the sides but how high up? The soft piece goes on top, but how is it supported on the ends to follow the contour of the window?

 

So I tried the stock channels. Did not like. Basicly because they are in pieces I found the glass would bind when transitioning between the pieces. Waste of $400. Will be installing the generic channels. Form it to the glass, glue in, done.

 

You still might need the stock style fuzzies for the doors to make the smoker’s windows work correctly.

 

This what I came up with for dovetails. Bought the adjustable units for a 32. Bolt spacing is narrow along with smaller bolts. I cut some 1/8" stainless and drilled and counter sunk some holes, then polished. Used the "wedge" from the 32 units and bolted to my stainless.

 

Those dovetails are pretty nifty!

 

Anyone know of 33-34 Ford car door jam bumpers in different thicknesses? Looked but haven't found. I have one door that I would like to go more into the car to get the door flush with the body. Possible to shave the existing ones, but still have them look good?

 

I've sanded them on a belt sander, coarse to fine grit, they come out pretty well.