It's been 20 some years back but I seem to remember 72 Torino did the job. I kind of remember the clutch cross shaft adding a wrinkle but couldn't have been a big one. But then again my memory isn't what I wish it was. I know stock cast iron manifolds worked just fine but I think I used Truck ones. I've done that swap a couple times but not for a very long time. I've hand built these several different times to do that job. It's just a little bolt in gadget. I'm talking 57 car here not truck.
P.S. You will not find a listing anywhere to do that job from any supplier. Next option is to buy bends and flanges and build your own.
^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^ complete questions get solid answers, vague questions get strange answers. I'm thinking that a 57 Ford car should be fairly easy to get header to fit with that engine though. I'm with Pist-N-Brokle in that the headers for the early/mid 70's Mustangs, Torinos, Cougars is what I would first be looking at.
Join the 52-59 Ford Social Group here on the HAMB. Lots of good info there. That's where I found the part number for Hedman headers for the 302 in my '54 Ranch Wagon. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/1952-59-ford-social-group.282/
In a normal world I would ***ume car. But these days, 50% of people who come here asking questions have trucks. At least he said Ford, which gets an above average mark.
SORRY, Wish there was a better answer. If you do turn something up that is a drop in for the job be sure to let us know.
The 351C was such a short-duration product (a mere 5 years) that non-OEM-application aftermarket support for the street never really developed. They simply didn't make enough of them. There was a Cleveland frenzy in the early '70s and IIRC some headers were offered but once production stopped in '74 that stuff all disappeared. You can get conversion headers for all the rest of the then-current lineup, but those stayed in production far longer.
It get's down to Supply and Demand. If the aftermarket can't make $$$$ they aren't going to build it.
I read years ago that Torino headers fit. My brothers project stalled so the engine never went in and we never got there. Windsor swap guys use Torino and mustang headers, from what I've read as well. Just gotta buy a pair, and see what fits or needs changed.
On the flip side, from 1970 until the mid 80’s the Cleveland manufactured here was the standard Ford 8 cylinder engine. From falcons to F 100’s.
Two different exhaust ports depending on if the 351c heads are 2v or 4v. Headers and manifolds must match the heads or they won't seal.
Here's a little heads up. When you're talking Headers and the name Sanderson comes up, I generally think good enough quality. In December I bought a 40 project with a 4-V 4 Bolt main Cleaveland drive train in it. It hadn't run for 25 years so I got busy getting ready to change that. This thing had a lot of $$$ spent on it when being built including Sanderson S.S. headers. Soaked with M.M.O. and left to soak a few days I pulled the dist. and ran the pump to pre oil the inside system. Now I'm ready to connect the Batt and spin the old motor. No way, the starter motor is smoked. No big deal I have a good used one to swap in. I then notice the front bushing stub on the starter is making contact with the Head pipe. Who would do that? I removed the Header and thought the head pipe would move enough to get the starter out. That isn't going to happen. Then I see 3 different places within a 3" section of head pipe right at the back of the block where the pipe as a full rai weld. Then I understand, you have to drop the head pipe as well as remove the Sanderson Header to get the Stock Ford starter motor out. Maybe a better option is a Hi Torque mini starter but not so sure I would get a longer life out of one of those due to tight spaces. I have to call this a design flaw. Wish I had a photo of the header on before I got this far into it. Buyer Be Ware.
Cleveland's were used by Ford Australia until about 1984 in both 351ci and 302 ci. The 302 was a destroked 351 with closed chambers and 2V port heads. They are quite common in Hot Rods and street rods down here. In recent times some have discovered that the port spacings are the same as LS engines. Some have used the factory LS header on Cleveland's by cutting the head flange of the LS header and welding on Cleveland header flanges so they can fit in tight engine bays.
Pist-N-Broke , I am very interested in the issues you are having ,I have the same setup for my 40 ford coupe, engine, headers. I have owned this coupe for over 60 years running flat heads, 303 olds and a 289 cu in ford after talking with Frank Oddo about his. The 289 cu in engine had high performance factory manifolds that I had to have the angle of the mounting flange sloped to lay the manifold toward the engine to clear the frame. I plan to use those headers / manifolds on a 351 cu in Cleveland with 2 barrel heads if they will work in a 55 ford customline 2 dr with a 5 speed. The motor mounts you made may be what I use not the mounts I purchased from AutoZone shown on HAMB I hope to see more photos of the that project which I believe is the Red one on the trailer in one photo.
customline joe. Not sure what photo you're referring to but yes, my 40 is a red one. I did manage to get the motor running again and it runs well enough. However the header/starter issue was but one of many that put the Cleaveland drive package on the D.N.R. list. Some people should never be allowed to get under a hood. If you have caught much referring to my new project, you know it was a full-blown Street Rod when I took ownership in December. The package is undergoing total reconstruction. The High Back Bucket seats are gone. The M-2 junk is in the S**** Trailer. The tilt and telescopic is right next to it. On and on and on. The Electric Fan started a large part of the redo being I Will Not Own Anything with an Electric Fan unless it is newer than 2015 and came from the factory with it and my Wife will be behind the steering wheel of that thing. There's a right way to do things and I build Hot Rods with manual fans no matter the combination under the Hood or Hoodless if so decided. Stay Tuned
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