I would be concerned without a flexable line between the body and engines fuel line. As much as A's flex I see leaks down the road.
FYI, Winfield used a larger diameter float valve orifice on carbs used with gravity feed fuel systems. The standard orifice is .094”, and the larger was sumpin like .118”. You may consider doin sumpin similar if you notice fuel starving under load…
Here's some pictures of my work on the first intake port. Still needs a bit more cleanup and some more valve seat work. Any thoughts/suggestions? Is there any real benefit in porting the exhaust? I am assuming that the intake is going to be by far the major restriction, with siamesed intakes and (stock) the same port and valve size as the exhaust.
Hi everyone, Thursday I will be picking up a new toy. It has a Diamond B block and a Cragar Overhead in it. The head had a crack in it and was fully fixed. I have never got a chance to play with a banger yet so this is my first one. The head needs to be reinstalled and then I can drop the trans and motor back in the car. But I have a couple of questions that hopefully I can get some guidance on..... Which is the best headgasket for the Cragars? Before I bolt the head down, I was told that the middle nuts on the head should be 10lbs of torque less than the others? And is there anything I should look at or do before I bolt the head down? Thanks for the help, I'm really excited to get the car home and get it running again after reading all these Banger meet posts
The finished number 1 intake, unless someone can tell me what to improve? Please keep in mind that I have no idea what I'm doing, all ideas and advice accepted! While I've read plenty about it, I've not even ported a cylinder head before. I'm really just trying to smooth out the port and open it up for the larger valve. Surely I'm not in uncharted territory here? I feel like the port would probably work better with the short side straightened a bit, but I'm concerned about the proximity of the water jacket, and I know you normally stay away from the equivalent area on a cylinder head! But I feel like it's a bit different with the angles here. Anyone have any pointers?
I can't help you but good to see another banger getting some love over here, you might have to wait till the time zones work in the other parts of the world
Yeah I'm pretty excited after reading all these posts about how good the hopped up ones run out. This was a running and driving car, it actually raced at the RPM Nationals. So pretty much I just have to bolt it back together and bolt it in the car again
Sent my mag off to be rebuilt for the model T, been kind of a pain in the ass to find a clockwise rotation, mechanical advance, four-cylinder mag with an impulse. Mag Guy calls me up, and says in 20 years of rebuilding mags he's never seen something quite like this, the guts to the mag are completely custom. He calls his buddy who's been building mags even longer to ask for help on what I sent him. There were to giveaways on the exterior that it was something odd, custom bolts, instead of screws, holding plug wire plate, and the plate to set the mechanical advance. Inside the mag, all the serial numbers were completely different from what he was used to seeing. Turns out it's for a Sherman tank, they ran dual four-cylinder magnetos on each of the V8 Cadillac engines. So, neat mag to sit on the shelf, but there's no way you would want to run this on a speedster.
We recently tore down the engine of our flat Tail Race Car to freshen it up, and check things over. Today, we started the engine, it ran fine, lot of compression noticeable when starting, good oil pressure (driven from cam gear) very responsive, but I now have a greater appreciation for the brave soles that drove these machines. My left arm is exhausted trying to keep fuel pumped to the carburetor. Best news…no leaks when it was shut down! I’m sure this car is glad to be back amongst the living. Oops, couldn’t load the video, but this is the car.
A few things to check if you have to constantly pump to keep the air pressure up. Once pumped up to 2-3 PSI it should hold that for 10-15 minutes at least- less if you have a full fuel tank. On a warm/hot day it should not require much to keep the pressure up. Unscrew the top of the air pump and pull the plunger out and check the leather. It needs to be soft and well lubricated- keep it oiled- sometimes you can turn the leather over to get more life out of it. There is a spring loaded check valve in the bottom of the pump, remove the brass side plug and check the condition and clean out any dirt. Hope this helps a bit. Other obvious thing is make darn sure your fuel tank cap is not leaking.
I would add that using a left hand drill bit may facilitate easier removal and sometimes the torque created through the drilling will loosen the stud and allow it to rotate out as it is being drilled.
Thanks! I don't have any broken head studs though, I just removed some of them? I had huge difficulty getting them out 12 months ago when I first pulled the stock head, but with lots of heat, penetrating fluid, and double nutting them I eventually got them all out intact (which was the only way I could get the head off as it was rusted solid to them). I've really been looking for some advice on what others have found effective when porting out the block, but I guess it's a secret!
Thankyou so much! That's awesome... And luckily enough lines up very well with exactly what I've done so far. I really hadn't found anything after a lot of searching, but I knew I couldn't be covering new ground. Out of interest, I don't suppose you have the rest of that document...? Looks like it would be worthwhile reading.
I wouldn’t suggest any more than a simple blend and polish on any block that has had any machine work or babbit work done already. There is not much material around the ports and if you burn thru… it’s scrap! The stock port size is sufficient to support a really strong running engine. The larger valves will no doubt provide a far more noticeable improvement than porting for most motors
I think I got one from Bert's, you may have call call two or three, I forgot about the left hand drills, also soak the broken studs with Liquid Wrench or any of the popular brands. I use 50% acetone and 50% ATF with success.
Thanks! Yeh I'm cautious about that. The shape around the valve guide was pretty horrendous, and that's obviously a solid part, so I did a fair bit of reshaping there. I think the bigger valves and opening up the throat should make a big difference too - there's a nasty crevice under the deck that I would think would be terrible for intake flow (I'd think it doesn't matter as much on exhaust, it's huge anyway, and maybe would help stop reversion?) - that is removed when opening the throat for the bigger valves. But again... I'm no expert at all, just going by what I see and my limited understanding and research. That's why I'm looking for any and all input. Thanks!
If gravity doesn’t work for you (and it never has for me…) I’ve seen the solution. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-pump-filter-and-regulator-is-it-art.1290092/
Who is RKE? I would install this. The inclusive all in one unit certainly meets all criteria, especially with the built in regulator. I am currently running a supposedly 1.5 lb pump under the dash/tank and I hate the sound inside the cab. Is the RKE unit noisey, at least it is outside. I think it looks great and has no negative impact on a banger already running a FSI distributor and a 97. Warren
RKE make the Rotoshim shock absorbers, and a new oil pump with an integral pressure relief valve. https://rotoshim.com/ https://rkeengineering.co.uk/
T valve spring question, need something heavier than stock, as the cam ramps are lot more aggressive. Not going to be spinning it much beyond 2,500. I'll be using modern valves and keepers. Would a model A spring be an option, or is that going to be too large? Thanks
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