I need to replace the 4 link bushings on my 34 Ford. I am looking for the vender that posted on HAMB. I want to replace the bushings with urethane not plastic.
Speedway carries a large selection of various urethane bushing, and they list dimensions so you can compare to yours and maybe find one that fits. I've purchased urethane bushings without the metal sleeve on the outside, and chucked them in my lathe to turn then down to the OD and length I needed. They actually turn down easily if needed. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=urethane bushings
I got mine from a company called Energy Suspension. Quite a large selection of all sorts of bushings etc.
Some cheap, unsolicited advice. Use at your own discretion. 1: Energy Suspension = Junk. I was the Validation Engineering and Warranty Manager for a Heavy Duty Truck Suspension company for 5 years. We tested hundreds of different bushings from many different suppliers, for all sorts of different heavy truck (Class 3 to 8) applications, and Energy ALWAYS performed the worst in any durability test. For Example, our typical radial durability test (image below) involved pushing and pulling on a suspension link with a pair of test bushings installed to simulate peak braking and acceleration loads for the suspensions GAWR. Energy bushings would fail within 100's, or maybe a few thousand cycles, where as standard rubber would go 100,000's of cycles, and good quality urethane would reach upwards of 1 million cycles. Maybe not 100% applicable to this Hot Rod stuff (The cross bolts in the image below are 7/8" and applied loads often exceeded 10,000 lbs), but I have used Energy bushings on two of my cars and they have failed on both much sooner than I wanted. 2: Urethane bushings are typically less compliant than rubber or EPDM bushings. This will lead to a stiffer, less compliant ride with more road energy and vibration transferred to the chassis. This may be something you want if you are concerned more about handling and performance and are willing to sacrifice a bit on ride and harshness. Just something to be aware of.
TRUE STORY: I recently let my son race my '33 Willys that I built in 1989. He said after he went through the lights the car wanted to change lanes and he had to drive it to keep it straight. I told him "that is just the nature of the beast, a short wheelbase hot rod. Don't worry about it." Months later I took it to a 3-day race out of state and drove it myself. Sure enough as I drove past the finish line and lifted off the gas the car veered into the next lane. Subsequent inspection revealed the bushings had been hammered out of the rear suspension similar to the photos above. I parked the car for the rest of the weekend. After trailering it home I tried to unload it. The car wouldn't move. The bushings in the rear coil-over shocks had also failed and subsequently the car fell down and the rear tire was resting on the tubbed wheel well. Can you imagine what would have happened if the rear suspension had collapsed as I was drivng through the lights on its last pass? Or even worse... if it had happened when my son was racing it previously?? I could have never forgiven myself. I called my son and appologised profusely for not taking his warning seriously. BOYS AND GIRLS: SUSPENSION BUSHINGS ARE NOT A LIFETIME ITEM. THEY ARE CONSUMABLE ITEMS, LIKE TIRES AND SHOCKS. INSPECT AND REPLACE THEM AS NEEDED, EVEN ON LOW MILEAGE APPLICATIONS THAT HAVE BEEN INSTALLED FOR YEARS.
BTW, there is a great video on youtube that shows how to install flanged bushings using a length of nylon cord. Check it out. Amazing.
Pete & Jakes has been making their 4 bars since the 70’s, I would trust their bushings before some generic brand ones for replacements.
I changed the bushings 20 some years ago with P&J bushings. They have held up quite well. I used outboard marine greese on them so they wouldn't squeek. This is good water proof greese that I think helped prolong the bushings. $8.00 a tube from amarine boat store...........
Last summer the A model truck would kind of swerve when I down shifted. Checked the rear 4 bar set up and the bushings were literally gone. I just got the truck going last year so low miles on the 4 bar. I think the bushings were cheap Chinese and just fell apart. Fixed that with urethane. Then I wanted to raise the rear and put some new shocks on and the shock bushings were shot on the coil overs that came on the truck.
What am I missing...urethane ...is... a plastic isn't it ? Was the last time I looked into it ! Not rubber, not a metallic, not wood, but...a plastic. Mike
Yep.. its a compliant plastic that alows a small amount of flexing but any torsional movement requires slipping of the bush on its sleeve. With rubber and movement is within the bush its self... so no wear or "squeeking". Some of the better quality urethane bushes have a waffel type profile in the bore for grease retention and stainless sleeves.
That is not necessarily true. Yes, many of the generic urethane hot rod bushing kits are designed to slip on the inner sleeve as they are not bonded to it. However, there are plenty of urethane bushings out there that are bonded to both the inner and outer sleeves / pins, where any torsional motion is taken up by the elastomeric material itself. These bushings are much more durable, and quieter than the unbonded type. One example, Atro bar pin bushing.