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bonding fiberglass to steel

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CG, Sep 19, 2006.

  1. CG
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,077

    CG
    Member

    Ive always liked the look of those teardrop hood scoops. Not sure of the history but I think they first came on the Ford Thunderbolts. Ive seen several different fibergl*** versions for sale and have been kicking around the idea of getting one. Is there a way to bond fibergl*** to steel these days so the scoop doesnt just crack around the edges, or is it just wishfull thinking?
     
  2. old beet
    Joined: Sep 25, 2002
    Posts: 5,750

    old beet
    Member

    Look to the new body shops and the jap cars, there is some 2 part stuff that will bond a fart to a railroad track.......OLDBEET
     
  3. jub
    Joined: Apr 7, 2003
    Posts: 342

    jub
    Member
    from York, Pa

    It's a two part system, you need a special gun to apply it too. Eastwood sells a kit. The stuff is really strong, they say the metal will rip before this stuff gives.
     
  4. CG
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,077

    CG
    Member

    Is this stuff is sandable so I can get a seamless transition?
     
  5. jub
    Joined: Apr 7, 2003
    Posts: 342

    jub
    Member
    from York, Pa

    Yes, but I would go over it with a skim coat of filler. Usually it's applied between the panels then finished with filler.
     
  6. 51 wayfarer
    Joined: Sep 15, 2006
    Posts: 28

    51 wayfarer
    Member
    from DENVER

    thanks for posting that question. i have to scoop my hood as well because i'm cursed by it raining everytime i leave the garage. one question on top of that how well does paint adhere to this adhesive.
     
  7. jub
    Joined: Apr 7, 2003
    Posts: 342

    jub
    Member
    from York, Pa

    It has been discussed before just do a search. It will answer all of your ?'s
     
  8. bad gas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 105

    bad gas
    Member

    metal and fibergl*** expand and contract in the sun at different rates and WILL crack after a while.
     
  9. CURIOUS RASH
    Joined: Jun 2, 2002
    Posts: 9,635

    CURIOUS RASH
    Classified's Moderator

    When I bonded the rear fenders to the 41 I used a product by 3M called Scotch-weld. I then used margl*** to build the void in all 41-48 rear fenders and finally skim coated over that to float the fenders into the body.

    That was 10 years ago and I have been ROUGH on the car. No signs of degrading.

    The scotch-weld is the same stuff the full size GM truck door hinges are GLUED to the frame with.

    I like the fart on a railroad track. I was told this stuff would "glue a sweaty *** to a greased slide."

    I believe it.

    There is a newer product called Plexus. (sp?) again this requires a special gun. this stuff is TUFF. we tested it by gluing a hunk of angle aluminum to a 4'x4' sheet of alum. honeycomb. Then commenced trying to seperate the two.

    It took a sledge hammer and the honeycomb failed. We never got the two pieces apart.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. old beet
    Joined: Sep 25, 2002
    Posts: 5,750

    old beet
    Member

    Not this stuff!!!..................OLDBEET
     
  11. CG
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,077

    CG
    Member

    "Slaps Forhead" Yep you're correct. I just did a search and there was plenty there. Im going to get a sharpy and write across the top of my monitor...DO A SEARCH FIRST...but I also appreciate the responces ive gotten so far, thanks guys.
     

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