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Technical mechanical fuel pump rebuilds

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MR K., Apr 24, 2023.

  1. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 674

    MR K.
    Member

    So I have in the past always had a shop rebuild my fuel pumps. Any reason these are better done by an outside source than us normal guys? they don't look complicated? What do most of you do out there. From a skill level I have restored and modified a number of cars over the past 20 years. Mechanical and Industrial engineer by day. So from a skill level I think its easy. Do they have better kits and thats what makes it worth it?
     
  2. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,492

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    They're easy to rebuild if you can get the kit for them. I have rebuilt a few by cutting out my own diaphragms from Viton sheets, and making new pull rods by cutting the head off an appropriate length 1/4 inch bolt, heating and flattening the end, and cutting the slot for the lift arm in that flattened end. Double nut on the diaphragm end, stake the bottom nut, and boom, Bob's yer' uncle.

    Here's a spare I carry in the '37 Buick that I just took apart to give you a better idea how I fix 'em.
    Pump 2.jpg Pump 1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2023
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,039

    squirrel
    Member

    The check valves give trouble too, they get to where they don't seal. And if you don't get them staked in well, they'll pop out.
     
    lumpy 63 likes this.
  4. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,492

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Jim, you'd love the outlet check valve that I have on the old Buick. I broke the phenolic wafer in the outlet check valve on the pump, so I got creative with a couple br*** fittings, a small ball bearing and a real lightweight spring. The whole deal is connected to the outlet of the pump, sits vertically so gravity helps the ball seat, and it works wonderfully. If I can build something that works well and solves a problem I'm all in.
     
    harpo1313, brading and squirrel like this.
  5. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,815

    ClayMart
    Member

    God, I love that kind of talk!
    :D
     
  6. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,253

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    I rebuilt the pump on my Chrysler. It was an easy and fun afternoon project. I highly recommend these folks. They answered the phone when I called with a couple of questions (there were two slightly different pumps available for my car), and the kit I received was American made, very complete, and the parts are compatible with ethanol fuel.

    https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pump-repair-kits/
     
    AHotRod, 1oldtimer and 302GMC like this.
  7. MR K.
    Joined: Aug 20, 2009
    Posts: 674

    MR K.
    Member

    this is actually on a buick :)
     
  8. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,253

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    The company I linked to makes fuel pump rebuild kits for just about anything.
     
  9. I bought one for my girls Studebaker years ago. Still haven't needed it, but it's ready.
     
  10. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 17,167

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’ve called and sent an e-mail to them with no answer. (I left a message) I understand they lost their long time employee doing the work. On their website you need the number for the kit. They list over 10 for pumps that fit my engine.
     
  11. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,687

    Beanscoot
    Member

    I've never bothered replacing the check valves as they've been okay on the pumps I've rebuilt - so leave well enough alone.

    When ***embling the pump, it is important to push on the arm to fully compress the diaphragm spring so that the diaphragm will have its full range of travel when operating.
     
  12. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,492

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, definitely. I always leave the screws loose a turn and a half or so. then push the arm to it's fully compressed position, then while holding it in that compressed position I tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern.
     

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