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Technical Early Ford Rear Wheel Bearings

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Crookshanks, Apr 25, 2023.

  1. Crookshanks
    Joined: Dec 16, 2010
    Posts: 369

    Crookshanks
    Member

    Re***embling my 40 rear and was hoping to reuse the original Henry bearings. One looks ok, the other not so much. I’m ***uming it’s probably best to replace both with new. Question is, what’s the next best bearing on the market to original quality?
     

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  2. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,944

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    From what I have heard; good used original bearings are the best. The repop bearings have a reputation of the end plates of the cages being "soft" and wearing prematurely.
     
  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,325

    rusty valley
    Member

    Agree with Rich B above. This has been a problem fo a couple decades now. Ol' Henry was very good at metallurgy, and in todays world I would call Mac at Van Pelts sales to see what his parts are.
     
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  4. Deuce Lover
    Joined: Feb 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,207

    Deuce Lover
    Member

    Southside Obsolete in MN should have NOS ones.
     
  5. Crookshanks
    Joined: Dec 16, 2010
    Posts: 369

    Crookshanks
    Member

    Mac is a good idea. Will give him a call. Thanks.
     
  6. Crookshanks
    Joined: Dec 16, 2010
    Posts: 369

    Crookshanks
    Member

    Just sent him a message. Thx for the lead.
     
  7. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,796

    banjorear
    Member

    Sometimes it's cheaper to buy complete junk drum ***emblies that still have the bearings than to buy the bearings themselves.

    I would see what Fred @ Southside has to offer. He is top notch.
     
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  8. Super Streak
    Joined: Nov 22, 2011
    Posts: 313

    Super Streak
    Member
    from Florida

    Make sure to use the correct grease on those bearings. Sta-lube 3131. Not any of this new **** which won't hold up!
     
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  9. hotrodA
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 7,343

    hotrodA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What he said. ^^^^^^. Try to find NOS or good used.
    Also check the inside surface of the hub’s bearing race surface. They can wear unevenly and do not come out. I went through several hubs finding a good one.
     
    Crookshanks likes this.
  10. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Anybody making stainless 'repair' sleeves for the rear axle hubs?
     
  11. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 394

    dmar836
    Member

    I too need to repair a 40 rear race.
     
  12. Mark T
    Joined: Feb 19, 2007
    Posts: 2,175

    Mark T
    Member

    eBay usually has used and NOS bearings for early Fords.
     
  13. Dan Hay
    Joined: Mar 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,452

    Dan Hay
    Member

    You’ll need to have someone turn down the race on the bell on a large lathe then press on a new race.
     
  14. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 394

    dmar836
    Member

    Don't want to hijack but I have seen ads with races and then some that say their "hardened" races are long lasting. That would be a bit harder to turn down once pressed on, no? I have a lathe that I think could do it.
    D
     
  15. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,850

    2935ford
    Member

    As has been stated......find good used originals!
     
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  16. hotrodA
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 7,343

    hotrodA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The issue I ran into on my 32’s rear end was worn internal hub races.
    I had several sets in my stash to go through until I found two good hubs. There were those that showed no wear and those that had an hills and valleys type of wear that looks like the entire bearing never rotated in the hub, only the individual rollers rotated in just one spot their entire life., maybe seizing on the axle housing end. Good luck!
    PS: I am talking about the internal race of the hub, for the OD of the bearing, rather than the external race on the axle housing end for the ID of the bearing.
    Both need to be in good condition or your new replacement BEARING may suffer.
    Yours may be in great shape. If so, forget everything I said.:D
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2023
    dmar836, Crookshanks and rusty valley like this.
  17. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,325

    rusty valley
    Member

    Good info from @hotrodA. For the Axle tube, John Connely of columbia two speed makes the best hard repair sleeves. It takes good tooling to cut them undersize, and a lathe big enough for the perch to swing. @Mart has a video on it. Sleeves in the hub is new news to me. Also remember if using a 35/36 housing they can be flipped over to put the load on the virgin side.
     
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  18. warbird1
    Joined: Jan 3, 2015
    Posts: 1,350

    warbird1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Welding a couple of beads across the internal race may possibly shrink it enough to get it out without cutting. Maybe...
     
  19. dmar836
    Joined: Oct 23, 2018
    Posts: 394

    dmar836
    Member

    Rusty, As in Mart's Garage? Couldn't find that one.
    D
     
  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,672

    alchemy
    Member

    Don’t do this. The race is part of the hub housing, it won’t come out. I have no idea what hotrodA is talking about, since the rear races aren’t replaceable.
     
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  21. hotrodA
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 7,343

    hotrodA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sorry, I probably got mixed up between the replacement sleeves for the housing end and the hub.

    As far as I know and based on what I found there is no replacement race for the inside of the hub, i.e. the outside surface for the roller bearing. @alchemy is 100% correct.

    Sorry for creating the confusion. Old age is a *****. Corrected the post.
    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2023
    warbird1, rusty valley and alanp561 like this.

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