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Customs Rusted, deteriorated, hard-to-get-to nut removal advice?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Curt Six, Apr 29, 2023.

  1. Curt Six
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 999

    Curt Six
    Member

    I’m trying to remove the porthole trim/hood latch mechanism from my ‘41 Buick.
    47110872-4878-4E6C-8B31-146FB7B082C7.jpeg

    There are two studs with 3/8” nuts on them at the very back in the super narrow area between the fender and cowl.
    ADAD8F4E-3FA5-4A89-9537-7D32E752E3F4.jpeg

    I can slide a thin wrench down there to get to them, and I’ve removed the top one (green arrow in my photo). The bottom one is so rusted and deteriorated it’s no longer a hex-shape and the wrench won’t catch on it (yellow arrow in my photo).
    F077E5ED-E0F6-4CA4-85D0-EC207936EF0E.jpeg

    I’ve tried needle nose channel locks to no avail. I can’t drill an access hole from the inside out (to get a ratchet on it) because there’s all kinds of structural support I’d need to get through. I’ve even tried different dremel bits to see if I could get down there to drill/grind the thing out.

    I’m shaving this trim so I suppose I could drill through the trim, but I hate to do that because it’s a decent piece someone else could probably use. But I really don’t wanna pull the whole fender to get this little shit off of there.

    I know this is a super specific problem, but anyone have any advice? I’m stumped.
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,413

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    That’s a tuff one. I’d bet the threaded shaft would just break off even if you could get a good grab on the nut.
    I’d look for my trusty short small handled hack saw like this. 67EA4C6E-C86D-4EC0-BD38-7126CA257738.jpeg
     
    RMR&C, hrm2k and Jagmech like this.
  3. Sporty45
    Joined: Jun 1, 2015
    Posts: 1,273

    Sporty45
    Member

    Could you just loosen the fender a little to give just a bit more room to get at the fasteners?
     
    Lloyd's paint & glass and RMR&C like this.
  4. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,061

    X-cpe

    Is there a chance you could get a drill on it and drill through the side of the nut to weaken it enough to split when you try to turn it?
    Maybe you could get an extended (long) bit and run it through a piece of brake line to guide it. If necessary you could run the brake line through a block of wood for a handle.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2023
    OahuEli likes this.
  5. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,762

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just too tight to remove a nut that's too tight. The only thing I can think of is if you could get a small nut splitter in there. But I don't think so. And I know you don't want to use a lot of heat in that area. Remove the fender.
     
  6. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 2,419

    Tow Truck Tom
    Member
    from Clayton DE

    Could perhaps a small stoned die grinder.
     
  7. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,608

    goldmountain

    Take the fender off and you can see things a lot better.
     
    Bandit Billy, egads and 302GMC like this.
  8. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,614

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from WA-OR, USA

    Small pipe wrench?
     
  9. 0B6A45E2-9B6E-4AB4-928F-61253EF76AF4.png




    BC56B7F8-A3D0-4709-A6DC-39DE9C720058.png



    what about a king burr on an extension

    I’ve also seen flexible burrs , never used one .


    Just ideas .
     
  10. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,598

    ekimneirbo

    hrm2k and williebill like this.
  11. Jagmech
    Joined: Jul 6, 2022
    Posts: 212

    Jagmech

    Get a 1/8" shank Dremel tool, long bit. Hard to judge accessibility from pix, but grind away if you can get to it.
     
  12. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,762

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you can get to it, put a carbide burr on a die grinder. That nut won't stand a chance.

    p46067_4.jpg
     
  13. Curt Six
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 999

    Curt Six
    Member

    I used a carbide Dremel bit to knock 3/16” off of the top one in order to get better access to the lower one, which was out of reach of my Dremel but. To be honest I just didn’t realize they made those bits with long shanks, so now that I know I’m going to order some up…that should definitely do the trick, because it ripped right through the top one. Thanks fellas.
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  14. inthweedz
    Joined: Mar 29, 2011
    Posts: 605

    inthweedz
    Member

    Have you got access to an air hacksaw?? They take an ordinary hacksaw blade, and would make short work of that problem..
    20230430_180656.jpg
     
    reagen and Petejoe like this.
  15. Hudson31
    Joined: Feb 22, 2013
    Posts: 42

    Hudson31
    Member

    Faucet wrench? IMG_6392.jpeg
     
  16. Take the fender off. Grinding on the nut-stud will likely ruin the stud causing more headaches if you want to reinstall the trim.
     
  17. Working on a 40 Lasalle with almost Same issue. After hours of thinking of and trying to fit tools in their. Took off side panel in 20 min and trim was easier to to take off. Less stress.
     
    Still Willin and Tow Truck Tom like this.
  18. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 2,061

    X-cpe

    Is there room to get a flat file down next to the sides of the nut and make new flats?
     
  19. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,844

    RmK57
    Member

    I’ve used these countless times to reach hard to access fasteners. I have two pair of them one is around 6” and the other around 4” in length.

    6F21160B-B207-4F4A-9FEE-5F11403F8224.jpeg
     
    Paul likes this.
  20. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,319

    finn
    Member

    It’s typically better to remove the panel of interest and do the work on the bench than it is to try to work where access is limited.

    Gives you a chance to clean up any corrosion behind the panel while it’s off, too.
     
    The Shift Wizard and X-cpe like this.
  21. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,496

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    One of the suckiest , hard to maneuver ineffective , waste of money , useless " tools" ever made.!
     
  22. I'd be using one of these from my collection, if it was me.
    20230430_124401.jpg
     
  23. It's like trying to install a new outlet behind a refrigerator without moving the refrigerator.
     
    X-cpe likes this.
  24. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,606

    Paul
    Editor

    like RmK57 said,
    and they come in longer sizes too

    Screenshot_20230430-150015.png
     
    williebill and scotts52 like this.
  25. Curt Six
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 999

    Curt Six
    Member

    I have tried needle nose vise grips as well. The problem is I can’t reach this nut with them, so even the longer, fancier versions won’t work because the space is so tight. All very good suggestions though…I appreciate the input.

    And I get it that removing the fender would solve the clearance issue, and if the long-shank carbide Dremel but I ordered doesn’t do the trick that’s the next step. It’s just that there’s more to it thank simply popping the fender off right now because of the mechanism I built to open the hood from inside the car. If I can avoid disassembling all of that to get the fender off I will, but if a skinny bit does the trick then I’m in even better shape.
    Thanks for all the input.
     

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