I’m trying to remove the porthole trim/hood latch mechanism from my ‘41 Buick. There are two studs with 3/8” nuts on them at the very back in the super narrow area between the fender and cowl. I can slide a thin wrench down there to get to them, and I’ve removed the top one (green arrow in my photo). The bottom one is so rusted and deteriorated it’s no longer a hex-shape and the wrench won’t catch on it (yellow arrow in my photo). I’ve tried needle nose channel locks to no avail. I can’t drill an access hole from the inside out (to get a ratchet on it) because there’s all kinds of structural support I’d need to get through. I’ve even tried different dremel bits to see if I could get down there to drill/grind the thing out. I’m shaving this trim so I suppose I could drill through the trim, but I hate to do that because it’s a decent piece someone else could probably use. But I really don’t wanna pull the whole fender to get this little shit off of there. I know this is a super specific problem, but anyone have any advice? I’m stumped.
That’s a tuff one. I’d bet the threaded shaft would just break off even if you could get a good grab on the nut. I’d look for my trusty short small handled hack saw like this.
Is there a chance you could get a drill on it and drill through the side of the nut to weaken it enough to split when you try to turn it? Maybe you could get an extended (long) bit and run it through a piece of brake line to guide it. If necessary you could run the brake line through a block of wood for a handle.
Just too tight to remove a nut that's too tight. The only thing I can think of is if you could get a small nut splitter in there. But I don't think so. And I know you don't want to use a lot of heat in that area. Remove the fender.
Here are some pictures of some specialty wrenches I have accumulated over the years that come in handy for difficult situations. The 3 with arrows should do what you need if you can find them. I have no idea where I found them. I'm pretty sure they make an even smaller pipe wrench than the one in the picture. Here are a few similar things from Amazon. Might make a good addition to a lot of tool boxes out there. www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Multi-function-Self-Adjusting-Spanner-14mm-60mm/dp/B07R5Z9R79/ref=sr_1_31?crid=22MS3NEDHOUE1&keywords=speed+wrench&qid=1682810911&sprefix=speed+wrench%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-31 www.amazon.com/MOTEERLLU-Universal-Double-ended-Self-tightening-Adjustable/dp/B0BM7HG9RR/ref=sr_1_99_sspa?crid=22MS3NEDHOUE1&keywords=speed+wrench&qid=1682811117&sprefix=speed+wrench%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-99-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzREFOTFhUVU80NDM1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ2Mzc0NFk1SFJaS005MEM0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MTA3MTgyOE8wQ1hBODRNTERaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl /www.amazon.com/GXMRHWY-Three-Sided-Universal-Multifunctional-Household/dp/B0BMQ7Q6GM/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?crid=15BTCLLFOY7CN&keywords=multi+wrench&qid=1682811756&sprefix=multi+wrench%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-49-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNDdRM1kzQzhUU09NJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI4OTg5M1M4Uk02WjdDUE5LTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE4MDYzQzM5TzBWS1lKQUQ4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Get a 1/8" shank Dremel tool, long bit. Hard to judge accessibility from pix, but grind away if you can get to it.
I used a carbide Dremel bit to knock 3/16” off of the top one in order to get better access to the lower one, which was out of reach of my Dremel but. To be honest I just didn’t realize they made those bits with long shanks, so now that I know I’m going to order some up…that should definitely do the trick, because it ripped right through the top one. Thanks fellas.
Have you got access to an air hacksaw?? They take an ordinary hacksaw blade, and would make short work of that problem..
Take the fender off. Grinding on the nut-stud will likely ruin the stud causing more headaches if you want to reinstall the trim.
Working on a 40 Lasalle with almost Same issue. After hours of thinking of and trying to fit tools in their. Took off side panel in 20 min and trim was easier to to take off. Less stress.
I’ve used these countless times to reach hard to access fasteners. I have two pair of them one is around 6” and the other around 4” in length.
It’s typically better to remove the panel of interest and do the work on the bench than it is to try to work where access is limited. Gives you a chance to clean up any corrosion behind the panel while it’s off, too.
I have tried needle nose vise grips as well. The problem is I can’t reach this nut with them, so even the longer, fancier versions won’t work because the space is so tight. All very good suggestions though…I appreciate the input. And I get it that removing the fender would solve the clearance issue, and if the long-shank carbide Dremel but I ordered doesn’t do the trick that’s the next step. It’s just that there’s more to it thank simply popping the fender off right now because of the mechanism I built to open the hood from inside the car. If I can avoid disassembling all of that to get the fender off I will, but if a skinny bit does the trick then I’m in even better shape. Thanks for all the input.