Technical 1941 Chevy Sedan Headlight Switch

All, I am currently running a replacement headlight switch for my 1941 Chevy, and rain into some issues last weekend. I have lost the dash lights and tail lights when I turn it on (but can make them flicker when turning the dimmer). The headlight are working, but have a slight flicker. I laid under the dash the other day, thinking it was a lose wire. I can hear in the switch what sounds like on quick on/off, coinciding with the slight flicker in the headlights, likely a short in the switch.

My question is, can I source a more common switch that would still use the factory type stem and chrome retaining nut?

Installed switch below:

 

That switch looks like a 55 56 Chevy unit. Stem is unique and a more modern switch will be deferent.
I’m more concerned why dash lighting is affecting tail lights. You may be wired wrong and sending to much load via the dimmer portion of your switch.

 

It's not so much the switch but are you running a 6 volt system with positive ground?

 

It’s a Chevy.

 

Here’s a Motor Trend read with fix on your exact switch. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.mo...l-air-repairing-the-dash-and-rear-lights/amp/

 

Its a 12v, new wire harness. The gauges are NVU Woodward series (LED backlight). The taillights are new speedway, 50's Pontiac, standard bulb. The front parking / turn are LED bullets.

Haven't have any issues with it until a couple Saturday nights ago. Pulled the switch on and the gauges lights were all crazy. Noticed later the tail lights weren't working.

 

Johnny, thank you for that article link. I will look into this tonight.

 

Better check all your grounds! Sounds to me like a high resistance ground, or loose ground.

 

How many grounds should I have? Do I need one at the front and the back of the car?

 

So I tweaked the tabs on switch like the article indicated. That reduced/stopped the chatter sound, but it was arcing at the “point” now, with even a slight smoke. Clearly something isn’t right. If it were a wire rubbed through in the harness, i would have anticipated the fuse blown. Switch issue?

 

Switch?, yes at this point. Those bi-metal breakers (A and B) have been an issue from time to time. The contact’s are burnt and not making a good connection along with thin blade being weak now.

 

To be clear when you said “I tweaked the tab” is what I’ve circled in red?

 

Do you have high output headlights? They could be overloading the breaker in the switch. The fix would be relays for the headlights. Or you could have a short. Try disconnecting the feed to the tail lights and see if that stops the problem. If not keep disconnecting stuff until you find the short.

 

yes sir. I moved that tab slightly, applying more pressure the "point" end of it. It stopped the chattering of the "points" but it didn't like it at all.

 

I do not have high output headlights. Standard NAPA sealed beams. Both are relatively new (last 6 months)

 

For the cost of the switch $40 ish , I'd try that and I'm not usually one to throw parts at something and hope it works. Seeing you had no issues up to this point with the system, I'd throw a new switch at it, things aren't made like they used to be.

 

That's pretty much where I'm at with it as well.

 

Ok, to be honest I didn’t read the article until you replied back that you tried what it said. That triggered what I had forgotten that I did the same to one years ago with one exception. I cleaned the contact’s first.

 

As far as grounds go, one good ground from battery to main body and frame is all I use. But in our old cars with fenders bolted onto the body I prefer to ground any lights mounted on fenders to be grounded to the main body or frame to ensure they're well grounded.
It sounds like you may have more than one problem from the later comments you made. Some may be ground related, and some might be switch, or wiring related. Going to have to solve them one at a time, as fixing one might not make everything better. Sometimes you need to pull fuses or lamps to various affected circuits to see if a problem stops, and then after it's isolated trace the wires to the devices to determine if there's an issue in the wires, sockets, or grounds?

 

That I didn't do. I will run some Emory cloth on it tonight.

 

Thank you to everyone for the help, input on this. I messed with it Saturday night, looking closer at it, and fount there was some corrosion on the "point". Hit it with some Emory cloth and go it working again.

VOH