I'm looking for recommendations for a remote controller for door poppers. The controller that's in my car is a cheap POS that works occasionally then loses it's mind. I don't dare leave the car with the windows up.
I wish I could help. I was about to go out and buy the cheapest set of poppers and a key fob thingy I could find. I’ve heard guys mention various tricks to have a manual override to get one door unlatched. I believe that’s the best plan overall. I will be watching this one.
My plan is to put a hidden emergency manual release in somewhere, also. My battery is in the trunk which also has an electrical release. If my battery goes dead I'm SOL. I'll hide a mechanical trunk release, too.
For the battery, run a cable from the positive post to an insulated jump lug on the frame, where you can get at it. If your battery goes dead you can charge or jump it from the lug on the frame. I used a Dakota Digital remote setup for my Buick. I had a cheap eBay one before that, it was crap. Put a pull cable to open your front passenger door if the openers go south. That way you can always get in, even if the fob falls out of your pocket inside of the car, and you shut the door with the windows up. A hidden door pop button is also good insurance.
I have one from Ball's Rod and Custom, and it works fine. If I was doing a build from scratch, I'd hide a 12v momentary switch somewhere to bypass the controller if necessary, and do so for both doors. The odds of a double, simultaneous failure a minimal. Of course, the gear out of the vent window is the best insurance.
I've got a button inside the gas door. I also have pos/neg hookups I can reach cables to in case of a dead battery.
You might consider what you would do in the event of a collision or a fire while you were inside. It bothered me so much that I put manual releases on either side down by where the seat belt was anchored. My current build (and probably my last build) will have interior and exterior door handles.
My '53 Vic had all the garbage removed, shaved nose, deck, door handles...all of it. I used old Chevy starter solenoids in the doors to pull the pawls on latches; Buttons were installed below rockers, I could hit them with my toe. (or bend WAY down and finger it) Solenoids were loud. I'd hit the button and "Thunk!" At the A&W Root Beer stand, an older lady jumped at the sound! I apologized profusely. Safety override: a 12 gauge cable attached to a small clevis at the pawl hookup, right over the solenoid mechanical link. Cable went thru the door to the front jamb, where it exited down thru the fenderwell. A small ring was loop-soldered to the end, where my ring finger could open it easily. One of my jerk friends sarcastically said "Mike's showin' off his electrical skills with the buttons. He oughta just pull the cable!" Ha ha. BUT: I thought some about that... Actually, a choke cable with a chrome Tee handle was installed in the trunk, Adel clamped to the trunk inner skin. Around a big circle, then along the drivers side of the trunk panel...Then drilled thru the trunk floor, at the gas tunnel. Flip open the hinged license plate, and the Tee was right there, alongside the gas cap. Worked flawlessly. Should have lost the door solenoids...
If you are referring to those cheap "Fleabay" type remote relays. They have a generic setting from the factory that can do a "Max Headroom" [and do crazy things] Clear the codes then Re-set the remote to the relay and these problems go away [the same as introducing another remote] I had a winch remote go "random" on me [luckily It had a battery cut-off] And all the 12v DIY hidden sound systems in my house had them [they would randomly switch on in the middle of the night] I also use a 2 channel remote relay with my 2 garage doors [off a 2 button remote] Since clearing the codes and re-setting them I have never had an issue with any. Edit : you need to set them to single button "momentary" [like a garage door opener] Attached is instructions on how to set them [they seem to be universal]
On a previous OT truck I owned, I used pinball machine solenoids. They are small and cheap, but pretty powerful. Button was under the sill so I could tap it with my foot.
The C7 Corvette [which has electric solenoid door buttons] has cable pull handles by both the kick panels for this very reason. And it also has a pull release cable inside the trunk/hatch. But most "popper" shaved handles still have working inner door handles. [a smashed window in an accident is the least of your problems] Me personally would have a release cable on at least one door [under the hood somewhere] in case of electrical / battery problems
I put a switch in the trunk to open the passenger’s window and a hidden manual trunk release cable. Drove my Avatar for 9 years as my daily and was never locked out. Battery was accessible under the trunk floor in case it died. Was always able to get home. Had inside door handles and manual releases for the solenoid pins on my suicide doors. I wanted to be able to get out in case of failure of the electrics. Took some thought and a number of relays.
Here come the shaved door haters! Lol, always cracks me up. Never seen a car without handles on the inside myself....
I shaved the handles on my 49 Buick, but if I was to do it over I would find a smooth flat custom handle. It’s kind of a pain to dig out the fob every time I want to open the door.
One of my first hot rod experiences was a dude in a t bucket with no seat belts and a 300hp mouse lecture me about how unsafe my car was because it had door poppers.... Lmao.
48 Lincoln door buttons look great on a Merc. I have a set to put on my '51 Merc at some point. Something to consider. You can by the reproduced ones that are really nice from Logic. https://www.logic-industries.com/ 49-51 MERCS WITH LINCOLN DOOR BUTTONS? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/49-51-mercs-with-lincoln-door-buttons.1283009/ .
When I built The Judge I installed key fob door poppers but then I also installed a bicycle brake cable with a cable clamp on the end that is hidden in the grill at the front of the car. In addition while modifying just about everything in the doors I added bicycle brake cable mechanisms on the inside handles that mechanically unlock the door in addition to an electrical switch that would get energized if the handle is pulled just a little bit more. Emergency trunk access is taken care of with a pull cable near the floor at the corner of the back seat. All latches including the trunk were switched to bear claw types. Be sure to scroll all three pages of this link to my website where I cover the work on the doors. And don't miss the very last video on page 3 after the final upgrade for the window operators. https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/The-Doors/ Oh I just thought.. do not get a door popper controller that has the relays soldered into the control panel. They are only replaceable by cutting out and resoldering wires to a plug for replaceable relays... https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Fixing-MPC-Electronic-Remote-Door-Popper-System/
I get this question a lot, since I sell the bear claw style latches (www.hotrodlatches.com). I don't have a good made in USA electronics option. Every electronic is ultimately Chinese. Even if assembled in USA, it has Chinese electronic parts. So I always recommend the backup entry of some type, a cable, or other wired method to pop the solenoid. Believe me if I could find a cost effective made in USA wireless entry kit would be a nice complimentary product to go with the latches. At least there are non-wireless ways as some have suggested. Also my latches don't need the big high power solenoids, a 3-5 lb pull is more than sufficient. Makes mounting and wiring solenoid in easier. It's very common to connect the release to the stock inner handle. So my recommendation is just buy a cheap entry kit with the remotes. Wire it properly. Have a backup entry method. Have fun driving your car not worrying about getting locked out.
I honestly rarely use mine. I leave my windows down almost always, they're only up when I store it for the winter, so I usually just reach in and grab the handle...
The Lincoln buttons can be a great choice. If you think about the way doorhandles work, when you press the button, it extends a rod that presses into a lever. The funny thing is, if you remove the door handle, you can stick a screwdriver or anything in the hole and pop the door open. I’ve thought about this trick for several years. On my Lincoln I plan to weld up all the trim holes anyway. I will fill the door handle holes except for one small hole maybe 1/8 of an inch. I will put a little tool on my key ring like a small hex key T handle. Just slip that little thing in the hole and pop she comes.
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