Technical EVERYBODY is Stumped with no suggestions

I have decided to put a new accelerator pump in it again because it’s been in and six or 8 times. I keep drying that dang leather cup in order to get it in to where it doesn’t want to open up into that slit.

I’ll have it Friday or maybe Saturday at the latest, as it’s coming from 70 miles away down at Mike’s carburetor parts.
And I’m so annoyed at it that I just spent the money because I’m incorrigible, and today I’m just done playing reindeer games with this beastie.

I plummed in a vacuum T to the brake booster line, it’s all setup and ready once the new pump arrives.

 

In regards to re-installing your accelerator pump piston . . .

I'd try to use a thin feeler or ribbon gauge, maybe around .003" or so, and place it in the empty pump bore so that it covers the fuel inlet slot. A light smear of oil like Jon suggested above and then install the pump plunger. Hold the plunger in place with your thumb and then pull the feeler or ribbon gauge up and out. And "Bob's your uncle"!

 

I’m going to add a couple of pictures for John because it will explain more of what I’m saying. Also, there’s no way to reach the accelerator pump channel with the carb cap in place. The spring prevents me from holding the accelerator pump in place and then putting the cap on.
In other words, the accelerator pump is already connected to the linkage and the top cover of the fuel bowls, when installing it

 

Hey Jon, when the new pump arrives, I will bend the bottom of my linkage as per the instructions in order to place the depth of the accelerator pump, top shaft level with the outside of that area.

as you can see, mine is a little bit high at the moment. And then I will adjust the metering rod lift finger at the same time as per the instructions. I have all 18 pages of the 1955 Pontiac safari WCFB carburetor, rebuild instructions. They are far more accurate than the piece of paper that comes in the Echlin rebuild kit. And everything you’ve kindly reminded me of is written in them.

 

Here is some more information posted on my website that might help understanding.

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_WCFB.pdf

When Carter was still in business, I acquired the authority to copy this stuff as necessary; so this is NOT a bootleg copy of a copyrighted do***ent. You may download and print if you desire.

Jon

 

it’s like Batman, but with a carburetor

 

Thank you I’ll check it out.

 

Thank you John that is exactly what I have but I have 18 pages of it out of a repair manual apparently.

Here’s my link: https://www.pontiacsafari.com/55/ShopManual/6B - Carter WCFB Four-Barrel.pdf

 

It’s one year off, but it really details clearly the 55 Will Carter.

 

Heat riser stuck, Critter nest in tail pipe, Muffler collapsed?

 

If the heat riser was stuck, there’s no way I could drive it and 65 mph on the primary Venturi’s.

at least I cannot imagine it doing that but it’s a good suggestion. Thank you.

 

We'll keep the light on...

 

You did comment in neutral with the throttle wide open it still won't rev on up right? Here's where you have to have some balls. Get a buddy to stand with a ketchup bottle with gas in it. Start her up and grab the bottle from him and open her up and leave it until it stumbles then give it a shot of gas in the secondaries. If it comes to life, then it is for sure a lean secondary issue. If it doesnt you have a problem other than the carb. So much has been posted I couldn't remember if you said it wouldn't free rev in neutral or not. But I have a disclaimer, my opinion and 35 cents won't get you a cup of coffee. lol. Lippy

 

What could possibly go wrong? .

 

Weak ignition will produce the symptoms your having also. And Gary I do feel your pain. Lippy

 

Budget, nothing because if it's already lean he would have been experiencing backfire before. I've bottle fed a lot of nitro engines with gas out of a bottle and I only lost one eyebrow in all my years. LOL. Lippy

 

I could have said have your buddy drive the car with the hood off and Gary ride on the fender and squirt gas in while hanging onto the hood hinge with the other hand.

 

You have stated this a couple of times. You are incorrect. You should expand your imagination, its limiting your abilities to solve unusual motor behaviors.

I've seen several different brands of vehicles with different motor sizes run up well past 65 mph with stuck closed heat risers. Some actually didn't run too bad until they cracked the cylinder heads and blocks.
The 70s era motors were notorious for stuck exhaust heat risers. They would cause all kinds of strange motor behavior, but limiting their ability to reach a specific speed was not always on that list.

I don't think that is your problem, but a parcel plugged exhaust is a pretty simple thing to check, and probably something a guy having an unknown issue with a motor might want to eliminate from the list.

 

Gene I had a 55 chevy the mice packed **** in the tailpipe. Same deal. and it was stinky too. LOL Lippy

 

I completely agree 100%. I have seen some of this too. Air flow through the intake system and the exhaust system at part throttle cruising speed is significantly less than WOT at 3500 rpm. I questioned the ignition early on but, he has convinced himself it's the carb and he's not budging.

 

Impossible to fix somebody else's car over the internet too huh? So an old first gen hemi can handle 50⁰ of ignition timing??

 

Yes siree, and I don't think so. Maybe on Nitro.

Even a hi-po street hemi probably only needs 30-33 deg. total.

He claims that Petronix deal can run at less than 5 volts. I'd put the points back in.
A quick scan of an early 50's Chizler wiring diagram shows all kinda gismo's in there like electric transmission solenoids and interupt switches that are connected to the ignition.

And we know what happens to the cam timing when the chain has more slop in it than granny's under wear.

Could be a lot of things, now where's my M&M's

 

"Hold my beer and watch this!"

 

As a casual observer to this discussion, I've gotta throw kudos to @carbking for his willingness to offer up his knowledge and experience. Cl*** act!!

 

I’ll bet the troubles have nothing to do with the carb. Sounds so much like a plugged up exhaust!

 

granny's underwear?

Ben

 

yes they can. 4 degrees initial and 50 degrees at cruising rpm. It’s gotta be true if the interweb says it…. I also thought of timing chain slop. But a tdc verification didn’t show slop.

 

that makes perfect sense. And you’re right, I shouldn’t let my feeling run this repair, I should verify.
So I’ll climb underneath and check the heat risers for freedom of movement today since I’m simply waiting on parts for the Chrysler.
Then I’ll go wrastle some heads back on a Subaru motor and try to think of other possibilities.
I’m still thinking it was the poor cut of the base to bowl gasket and the too small of secondary jets though….

 

a huge ditto!

 

Everybody is stumped with no suggestions
There is none so blind
As he who will not see