I need someone who may have knowledge on lowering blocks for the rear end. I have around 4” blocks at the rear of my coupe but the way the bottom purch sits the rear end is moved forward 1.25-1.5”. This only gives me 1/2” of drive shaft movement in the yoke before it hits the driveshaft face. My thought is if I could cut the bottom of these blocks so the blocks sit more vertically then it would fix all the issues putting the rear end back where it needs to be located.
No different than using wedges to correct drive line issue’s. Be prepared for the comments on running such a tall block.
When I bought the coupe 20+ years ago these were already in place. While it does give a beautiful stance, it’s a little too low & I need them a little shorter.
Husk - You apparently don't drive like I do ! Wow, that's freaken scary ! First thing that I'D...recommend, is to lower the car, a little...more correctly...AND...safely. Change the springs and or the spring mounts, both front and rear. Mike
^^^ redo the springs please. also looks like maybe shock and plate a good bit below scrub line to me.
I would fear a flat tire (whether I was in your car or near it)! The scrub line appears to be an issue. @olscrounger you're apparently a slightly faster typer than I am
I would shorten the blocks by about an inch, and angle cut the bottom of the block to move the rear end back into position.
Yes, you can cut the blocks to get the height you need, and angle cut them to ensure proper pinion angle, and get the axle so it's centered in opening. you have the right thought process. As others have noted, be aware of scrub line, etc.
Carefully take that assembly apart and find out why the rear is not properly located (front to back) in the wheel well. Spring mounts need to be correctly located to center the rear.
20 years and you're just now getting around to changing things? My thoughts are you don't really drive it or it's really not an issue.
If that was my car, I'd remove the springs and get them re-arched (lowered).. If it's not possible to get it low enough just by re-arching the springs, make some thinner lowering blocks to compensate the difference Using lowering blocks will also allow you to drill the locating hole to centre the wheel in the guard, or give you more driveshaft movement..
I'd be making some "adjustments" to your lower shock mount too ... first time I've seen a washer and a cotter pin and no nut
To me it looks like the arse of the car would be too low anyway but if you like it that way that's cool. I'd be making new saddles for the housing and cutting the blocks down to suit.
A cotter pin with a big washers held on shocks on Jeeps all through WW2. I think it should hold ok on a street driven car. Besides there should be no side thrust on the shock any ways.
To me it confirms that some people shouldn't go near cars with tools. Imagine the brake torque rotating the axle forward, and the driveshaft giving the trans "a Liberace" Then there are lateral control issues [side forces trying to twist the springs] The best/easiest fix would be to "Leaf-Link" the springs ,and use triangulated upper links. But that would require some basic engineering skills A Simple hackjob fix would be to re-drill the centerbolt locating hole in the lowering block and also the corresponding spring plate, and move the whole assembly rearward the desired amount. This ^^^^ would keep the U-bolts and blocks etc perpendicular to the spring pad.
I had a CE spring set up with 2" lowering blocks when I got my 40 coupe, nice stance but a real PIA to get the rear wheels with 235-75 15 off due to interference with the rear fenders. I just put NEW springs from EATON spring in Detroit that are for a Sedan and though the rear sits a little higher the ride is better with no blocks . Photos to follow tomorrow Get new springs is my suggestions
Well said. It's scary what some people will do. Hopefully he'll get it sorted with the right spring combo and mounts.
Removing tires on very low rides just requires ingenuity and some patience. We’re not nascar so needing to change a tire in 3 seconds isn’t an issue. A real jack helps. I’ve worked on rides that needed a shock/coil over unbolted. On my bus, I fixed it where the side panel with the wheel opening is removable. We ain’t changing tires every day
I'm going to go out on a limb and just get back to his actual questions. No where did he say this was a 40 Ford and looking at the fender/running board as well as his avitar I'm going to call it a Hudson. None of this actually matters at all any more than giving him (or Her) opinions on how each one of us would do things for ourselves if it were our problem. Over 20 years I'll bet the rear tires have been off a few times. Yes, you can cut or machine the bottom of the blocks to correct both placement and height assuming the blocks are solid material. Personal opinion here, I would NOT tilt the block enough to gain the 1.25" you want but instead drill the new center pin receiver forward on the bottom of the block and keep the U-Bolts vertical to the spring. You may need to modify the bottom plate to accommodate the spring center bolt next. Before doing any of this you may want to test your slip yoke to be sure it has enough travel to let you move things as far as you want without falling out of the receiver. Best of luck to ya.
Dang you were spot on… other than one or two useful comments, it was like watching a bunch of teenage girls coming out to make fun of another girls clothes at the playground! The most humorous part is through their comments one sees how truly ignorant they are and they don’t even know it!
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